So I need flywheel options.

[sv650steve]

I was going to get the comp but they are low on stock. I want a lightweight one. How much can you shave the stock? Anyone got specs on that and what kinda weight I'd get?

[SirDigby]

that is the one you want. the 8.8 one is great, but it's kinda a single use, as it is not recommended you service it as it's already shaved to maximum thinness. the street one is pretty good at 11 lbs, and it is serviceable. just make sure whatever brand you choose, that it has a steel starter ring. if it's all aluminum the starter will tear off the teeth and you will have starting issues.
9-11 lbs is good weight. if you are forced induction, you could go even lighter, but remember the more weight you shave off, the more torque you loose and it could cause issues wile decelerating....

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

that is the one you want. the 8.8 one is great, but it's kinda a single use, as it is not recommended you service it as it's already shaved to maximum thinness. the street one is pretty good at 11 lbs, and it is serviceable. just make sure whatever brand you choose, that it has a steel starter ring. if it's all aluminum the starter will tear off the teeth and you will have starting issues.
9-11 lbs is good weight. if you are forced induction, you could go even lighter, but remember the more weight you shave off, the more torque you loose and it could cause issues wile decelerating....

No torque is lost with a lightweight flywheel what you lose is inertia of the flywheel/engine so the rpm's drop faster between shift which typically translates into not as smooth driving. Torque is a result of the leverage a piston has on the crankshaft (bore and stroke) a different weight of flywheel should not effect that

[SirDigby]

here is the math.
angler velocity is lost the more weight is removed from flywheel. the more pressure is needed to complete the rotation of the crankshaft. i'm not saying it's drastic, but it is present.

https://vlab.amrita.edu/?sub=1&brch=74&sim=1517&cnt=1

[tmontague]

The article you linked to shows the math as torque=force x perpendicular distance to the axis. In the case in an engine, more force is required to move a heavier flywheel which means more torque needed to be applied by the engine to accelerate the car the same rate as a car with a lightweight flywheel. This doesn't translate into the engine having more torque.

This is no different than more torque needs to move a car with heavier wheels, it doesn't mean that car has more torque, it is a negative thing because it requires more torque to move the car.

[SirDigby]

Originally Posted by sv650steve

I was going to get the comp but they are low on stock. I want a lightweight one. How much can you shave the stock? Anyone got specs on that and what kinda weight I'd get?

idk where you purchase from. i just ordered one on sunday from carid.com and it shipped on tuesday...

[SirDigby]

also i was wrong. the "street" one is 9.45lbs and the ultra-light is 8.8lbs (i'm pretty sure)
just make sure it's made of steel. aluminum is not a good idea for a flywheel.
clutch masters has a good one too for sale everywhere...

[ern-diz]

My sponsor sells this Fidanza Performance lightweight flywheel as a direct fit option. They also have some universal fit options.

If it makes sense, I have a discount code I can give you for 15% off.

[suprf1y]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

also i was wrong. the "street" one is 9.45lbs and the ultra-light is 8.8lbs (i'm pretty sure)
just make sure it's made of steel. aluminum is not a good idea for a flywheel.
clutch masters has a good one too for sale everywhere...

Nothing wrong with an aluminum FW. It will likely have a steel insert for the friction surface.

[thebarber]

Originally Posted by ern-diz

My sponsor sells this Fidanza Performance lightweight flywheel as a direct fit option. They also have some universal fit options.

If it makes sense, I have a discount code I can give you for 15% off.

Oh really?

[ern-diz]

Originally Posted by thebarber

Oh really?

Yes, sir

If you purchase something, use TWW-EMCEEPROTECH in the promo code section to get my 15% friend/family discount. They don't have a ton of direct fit parts for the Yaris, but they have some and als sell a bunch of performance parts for all different makes so if it makes sense for you, feel free.

I hope I'm not violating forum sponsor/vendor rules by offering this. Not actively pushing it, just offering it from one guy to another. Also, I'm not sure anyone even cares anymore lol. Either way, if this post needs to be deleted, so be it.

[SirDigby]

ha! i just received a notice that they are on back order until december! i guess i was wrong. i contacted a few other places. we'll see what i can find.
i do not trust an aluminum flywheel. i thought there was racing regulations against them, but i can not seem to find any so i guess i was wrong. i've heard of issues with them cracking and exploding. i will stick with steel cause i'm old...

[suprf1y]

A lightweight aluminum FW will be much safer than a stock FW

[myfirstyota]

I went with a monkey wrench racing lightened steel unit. Rev hang is significantly less. When starting off in first, it's touchy. Too much gas and you're hitting 3000rpm. Better be quick shifting from 4-5th gear at lower speeds or you'll have to give it a shot of gas before letting the clutch out to prevent the jerking that comes with a lower rpm than your speed is equivalent to for that gear. Over all happy with the wheel.