Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

I am trying to figure out how the door control receiver knows that the engine is running. The door control receiver only has a 2 wire connection to the body ECU. The red wire is the door control receiver input wire. You could try popping that pin to see if blocking comm in that direction keeps it from being told that the engine is running.

[Skylinecar1982]

Yeah I found the two wires White and Red I disconnected the red and the wireless didn't work anymore nevermind when the key was in.

Do you know exactly what happens between the BCM and the Door Receiever within those two wires? I don't see any of the wires going directly to the door lock system. So the BCM has to do the work to cut it off.

So the issue is probably the key ecu telling the BCM that the key is in the ign. And to block the signal between the two may cause more issues then I have already.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah I found the two wires White and Red I disconnected the red and the wireless didn't work anymore nevermind when the key was in.

Do you know exactly what happens between the BCM and the Door Receiever within those two wires? I don't see any of the wires going directly to the door lock system. So the BCM has to do the work to cut it off.

So the issue is probably the key ecu telling the BCM that the key is in the ign. And to block the signal between the two may cause more issues then I have already.

Did you try the white separately as well? The reason I ask it that the two are listed as input an output, but it is not clear as to whether the in and out are relative to the body ECU or to the door control receiver.

The service manual doesn't detail the comm between the two, and since it is two wire, instead of one I believe that rather than being LIN bus, like a lot of the other subsystems are to their respective ECU, that it is simply a simple pulse signal in either direction. You could verify that with a voltmeter, by watching the white and red relative to body ground, while hitting the remote.