Voltage regulator and Amperage question... - Toyota Yaris Forums

cr.chango · 11-09-2009, 11:25 PM

Hi to all, this is my first post here and I'm very happy trying to get my question addressed by you guys.

I have a Yaris hatchback '03 1.3L, 103000 km... recently I have had ignition issues, the engine didn't start a couple of times
I called assistance and got a (+)(+) (-)(-) to charge my battery, but I knew I had another problem.

My first thought was the battery, so I checked it and it was OK...
with the engine started, the voltage was very low 12 V (I don´t have the exact value at hand), so the problem was redirected to the alternator...

So, I had my car checked by a specialist and he told me that the problem turned out to be the voltage regulator...

Here comes my first question: is it better to buy only the voltage generator, or would it be better to buy the whole alternator???

It has been very hard to find the part and the only ones I've found are Nippondenso, and I really don´t know what to do...

The second question is related to the research I made trying to find that volt regulator and it´s about the amperage of it...

How do I know what the amperage of my Yaris is? I asked to an expert and he said that it was 70 amp... What if I get a 80 amp volt regulator for my Yaris, would it cause any problem???

Thanks for your attention, and sorry if I was not quite an expert... 'cause I am not!

sqcomp · 11-10-2009, 12:39 AM

First question I have for you is, how much is this regulator going to cost you? We have had successful tests of Iraggi alternators...If you're just looking for an OEM upgrade you might look at his products.

Take a look at the in car entertainment part of this forum.

yaris-me · 11-10-2009, 01:38 AM

I would replace the alternator. If you plan to install an audio system, then 80 amps makes sense. If you don't run accessories you could even install less than 70 amps.

CTScott · 11-10-2009, 10:32 AM

For the 03 there were 3 different regulators used within the alternator: 70A for USDM spec cars, 80A for Canadian spec cars, and 90A for JDM spec ones.

The difference probably has to do with some of the options available in the particular markets.

Looking on eBay, you can pick up complete alternators for under $40 or just the regulator for about the same.

Here's a link to the regulator:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/alter...Q5fAccessories

cr.chango · 11-10-2009, 11:44 AM

Thanks!
CTScott, that regulator is for a 1.5L, but mine's 1.3L, I'm not sure (cause I really don´t know) if it would fit in or if it may cause side efects...

Besides, there is no info about the part brand... so I don´t know if it would be that Nippondenso transpo that I mentioned.

I have an option here in my country for about $50, so it would end up a little more expensive than the ebay option...

Also, I am thinking of what yaris-me said about an audio system and a whole alternator at 80A.... ummm, don´t know what to do...

Thanks for your help!

CTScott · 11-10-2009, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cr.chango

Thanks!
CTScott, that regulator is for a 1.5L, but mine's 1.3L, I'm not sure (cause I really don´t know) if it would fit in or if it may cause side efects...

Besides, there is no info about the part brand... so I don´t know if it would be that Nippondenso transpo that I mentioned.

I have an option here in my country for about $50, so it would end up a little more expensive than the ebay option...

Also, I am thinking of what yaris-me said about an audio system and a whole alternator at 80A.... ummm, don´t know what to do...

Thanks for your help!

The 1.5L and 1.3L used the same. The Toyota part number for the voltage regulator is 27700-21010. It was also used on the Scion xA and Scion xB.

I personally would probably opt for picking up and entire used alternator, considering they can be had for about the same price as just the regulator.

severous01 · 11-10-2009, 08:39 PM

rebuilds are always cheaper if you do it yourself. hell...a kit costs about 10 bux. but, you'll spend hours rebuilding it which is what's costing ya. all it is is a few bearings, brushes, and the regulator.

cr.chango · 11-12-2009, 11:44 AM

Ok, I have news for this thread... :(

The guy who is taking care of my car brought a volt regulator and a whole used alternator... test both (replace the regulator, and afterwards mounted the whole alternator), and the problem remains...

He claims that my car's regulator has some issues indeed, but it can be considered to have a "regular" status...

The parts are the same brand my Yaris has, so it didn´t seem to be an alternator problem neither.

He told me that the problem could be related to the computer!!! So I really don´t know what to think... Let me expand the situation, maybe you have a better idea of what is going on here...

1. The engine didn´t start twice with a 22 day difference.
2. On both times I did a good battery charge as I mentioned above.
3. I tested the battery and it was good, but the car wasn´t generating on a regular way, meaning that it was not at the 14V. I saw the needle of the tester going down and up during that test...
4. Now it turned to be that the regulator is not 100% good, but it can work with no problem (it's within the ranges)
5. The guy scanned my car finding no error codes...
6. He thinks it´s a computer issue of the car, so he's taking it for revision.

Now, an additional fact is that my car alarm sometimes goes crazy, meaning that when I'm driving, it automatically beeps twice on a 2 minutes interval, but suddendly, it stops, and nothing happens...

Finally, the guy states that when the car is at minimun, the voltage is near to 14V almost regular, but, when it raises to 2500 rpm, the voltage varies from 8V (almost dead) to 22V!!! (very dangerous)...

I really really appreciate any idea or suggestion on what to test or do in regards to my situation, which is very hard to handle by myself...

Thanks in advance

yaris-me · 11-12-2009, 12:14 PM

I'm guessing that it could be a loose or bad connection somewhere. The best thing to do is find an auto electrician. Mechanics are not electricians.

cr.chango · 11-12-2009, 12:20 PM

Thanks yaris-me, as a matter of fact the car is with an electrician.

CTScott · 11-12-2009, 11:48 PM

Yikes!!! The 22 volt unregulated output could have done some damage. Did he by any chance look at the output with an oscilloscope? If the unregulated output was not rectified (i.e. was AC) it could have really hurt the ECM.

Yaris Hilton · 11-13-2009, 12:14 AM

Nearly always when someone says "It must be the computer," he's wrong.

mohamedmohsen2000 · 11-13-2009, 04:23 AM

I want to add to you my short experience about car batteries.
Actually a battery that is dead still outputs 12 volts or even 13.8 volts. But as soon as you put a load on that battery ( i mean electric load ), the voltage drops to 6 volts or less.

You can't easily identify a dead battery by a voltmeter. So don't just decide to change the alternator, it may be a dead battery, or a dying one. My dad used to have a 100 Ampere hour battery in his car, and once his car had stopped on a highway. He thought he lost the fuel pump, but actually it was his battery. Try a friend's battery first. If your case is not happening frequently, try to convince him to swap your batteries for enough time. If he didn't find a problem with that battery, then you have a problem.

I hope you understood my point.

cr.chango · 11-24-2009, 12:59 PM

Hello guys,

Well, after all the technician said it was a matter of a couple of parts within the computer... I had the components numbers, but I don´t remember where I put it (the note)... As soon as I find it, I'll post the numbers here FYI... I believe it was R135, but no idea if it´s correct or if it even exists...

Anyway, the car doesn´t have the problem anymore.

The complete alternator was kept, no changes or problems were found by the electrician, and it turned out to be a computer signal problem, that´s what he said.

I'll keep an eye on it for a couple of months... keep you posted...

I don´t have to say that I´m not satisfied with the service I received from that guy, but I am very pleased with your help guys!!!

Thanks a lot!!

11-09-2009, 11:25 PM	#1
cr.chango Drives: Yaris Hatch 2003 1.3L Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cartago, Costa Rica Posts: 18	Voltage regulator and Amperage question... Hi to all, this is my first post here and I'm very happy trying to get my question addressed by you guys. I have a Yaris hatchback '03 1.3L, 103000 km... recently I have had ignition issues, the engine didn't start a couple of times I called assistance and got a (+)(+) (-)(-) to charge my battery, but I knew I had another problem. My first thought was the battery, so I checked it and it was OK... with the engine started, the voltage was very low 12 V (I don´t have the exact value at hand), so the problem was redirected to the alternator... So, I had my car checked by a specialist and he told me that the problem turned out to be the voltage regulator... Here comes my first question: is it better to buy only the voltage generator, or would it be better to buy the whole alternator??? It has been very hard to find the part and the only ones I've found are Nippondenso, and I really don´t know what to do... The second question is related to the research I made trying to find that volt regulator and it´s about the amperage of it... How do I know what the amperage of my Yaris is? I asked to an expert and he said that it was 70 amp... What if I get a 80 amp volt regulator for my Yaris, would it cause any problem??? Thanks for your attention, and sorry if I was not quite an expert... 'cause I am not!

11-10-2009, 12:39 AM	#2
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	First question I have for you is, how much is this regulator going to cost you? We have had successful tests of Iraggi alternators...If you're just looking for an OEM upgrade you might look at his products. Take a look at the in car entertainment part of this forum. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

11-10-2009, 11:44 AM	#5
cr.chango Drives: Yaris Hatch 2003 1.3L Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cartago, Costa Rica Posts: 18	Thanks! CTScott, that regulator is for a 1.5L, but mine's 1.3L, I'm not sure (cause I really don´t know) if it would fit in or if it may cause side efects... Besides, there is no info about the part brand... so I don´t know if it would be that Nippondenso transpo that I mentioned. I have an option here in my country for about $50, so it would end up a little more expensive than the ebay option... Also, I am thinking of what yaris-me said about an audio system and a whole alternator at 80A.... ummm, don´t know what to do... Thanks for your help! Last edited by cr.chango; 11-10-2009 at 12:02 PM.

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11-10-2009, 01:38 AM	#3
yaris-me Learn to Relax Drives: 2007, Meteorite, LB Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 2,070	I would replace the alternator. If you plan to install an audio system, then 80 amps makes sense. If you don't run accessories you could even install less than 70 amps.

11-10-2009, 10:32 AM	#4
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	For the 03 there were 3 different regulators used within the alternator: 70A for USDM spec cars, 80A for Canadian spec cars, and 90A for JDM spec ones. The difference probably has to do with some of the options available in the particular markets. Looking on eBay, you can pick up complete alternators for under $40 or just the regulator for about the same. Here's a link to the regulator: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/alter...Q5fAccessories

11-10-2009, 08:39 PM	#7
severous01 Drives: 2008 yaris, stripped, red Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: SE Texas Posts: 977	rebuilds are always cheaper if you do it yourself. hell...a kit costs about 10 bux. but, you'll spend hours rebuilding it which is what's costing ya. all it is is a few bearings, brushes, and the regulator.

11-12-2009, 11:44 AM	#8
cr.chango Drives: Yaris Hatch 2003 1.3L Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cartago, Costa Rica Posts: 18	Ok, I have news for this thread... :( The guy who is taking care of my car brought a volt regulator and a whole used alternator... test both (replace the regulator, and afterwards mounted the whole alternator), and the problem remains... He claims that my car's regulator has some issues indeed, but it can be considered to have a "regular" status... The parts are the same brand my Yaris has, so it didn´t seem to be an alternator problem neither. He told me that the problem could be related to the computer!!! So I really don´t know what to think... Let me expand the situation, maybe you have a better idea of what is going on here... 1. The engine didn´t start twice with a 22 day difference. 2. On both times I did a good battery charge as I mentioned above. 3. I tested the battery and it was good, but the car wasn´t generating on a regular way, meaning that it was not at the 14V. I saw the needle of the tester going down and up during that test... 4. Now it turned to be that the regulator is not 100% good, but it can work with no problem (it's within the ranges) 5. The guy scanned my car finding no error codes... 6. He thinks it´s a computer issue of the car, so he's taking it for revision. Now, an additional fact is that my car alarm sometimes goes crazy, meaning that when I'm driving, it automatically beeps twice on a 2 minutes interval, but suddendly, it stops, and nothing happens... Finally, the guy states that when the car is at minimun, the voltage is near to 14V almost regular, but, when it raises to 2500 rpm, the voltage varies from 8V (almost dead) to 22V!!! (very dangerous)... I really really appreciate any idea or suggestion on what to test or do in regards to my situation, which is very hard to handle by myself... Thanks in advance

11-12-2009, 12:14 PM	#9
yaris-me Learn to Relax Drives: 2007, Meteorite, LB Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 2,070	I'm guessing that it could be a loose or bad connection somewhere. The best thing to do is find an auto electrician. Mechanics are not electricians.

11-12-2009, 12:20 PM	#10
cr.chango Drives: Yaris Hatch 2003 1.3L Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cartago, Costa Rica Posts: 18	Thanks yaris-me, as a matter of fact the car is with an electrician.

11-12-2009, 11:48 PM	#11
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	Yikes!!! The 22 volt unregulated output could have done some damage. Did he by any chance look at the output with an oscilloscope? If the unregulated output was not rectified (i.e. was AC) it could have really hurt the ECM.

11-13-2009, 12:14 AM	#12
Yaris Hilton Half a Bubble Off Plumb Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 1,593	Nearly always when someone says "It must be the computer," he's wrong.

11-13-2009, 04:23 AM	#13
mohamedmohsen2000 Drives: Toyota Corolla 2002 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Cairo Posts: 9	I want to add to you my short experience about car batteries. Actually a battery that is dead still outputs 12 volts or even 13.8 volts. But as soon as you put a load on that battery ( i mean electric load ), the voltage drops to 6 volts or less. You can't easily identify a dead battery by a voltmeter. So don't just decide to change the alternator, it may be a dead battery, or a dying one. My dad used to have a 100 Ampere hour battery in his car, and once his car had stopped on a highway. He thought he lost the fuel pump, but actually it was his battery. Try a friend's battery first. If your case is not happening frequently, try to convince him to swap your batteries for enough time. If he didn't find a problem with that battery, then you have a problem. I hope you understood my point.

11-24-2009, 12:59 PM	#14
cr.chango Drives: Yaris Hatch 2003 1.3L Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Cartago, Costa Rica Posts: 18	Hello guys, Well, after all the technician said it was a matter of a couple of parts within the computer... I had the components numbers, but I don´t remember where I put it (the note)... As soon as I find it, I'll post the numbers here FYI... I believe it was R135, but no idea if it´s correct or if it even exists... Anyway, the car doesn´t have the problem anymore. The complete alternator was kept, no changes or problems were found by the electrician, and it turned out to be a computer signal problem, that´s what he said. I'll keep an eye on it for a couple of months... keep you posted... I don´t have to say that I´m not satisfied with the service I received from that guy, but I am very pleased with your help guys!!! Thanks a lot!!