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Old 12-11-2018, 06:56 PM   #1
JCol91
 
Drives: Toyota Yaris 2008
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New Guy with CEL on!

Hello all,

I just bought a 2008 Yaris base sedan 5spd manual and first thing I want to get done is ask for expertise regarding common issues on these cars.

I've plugged and OBD scanner in Autozone and obtained the following codes:

P0606 - ECM processor error (this is my main concern because the idle is high on 2.5-3k and I have no idea how interchangeable are the ECMs in these cars, assuming a faulty ECM would fix this)
P0713 - Transmission fluid temp sensor (Doesn't make sense to me since cars is 5spd manual, please help)
P0974 - Shift solenoid A (again these don't make sense to me since the car is a manual but please do comment)
P0977 - Shift solenoid B
P2238 - Oxy Sensor or A/F ratio sensor circuit
P2716 - Pressure control solenoid

I assuming changing or cleaning the MAF sensor or Oxy sensor might do the trick for the high idle but this is the first of these cars I've had so my knowledge on them is 0.

I can do basic DIY maintenance, so I'll start searching the forum for each of these topics but any help is appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:02 PM   #2
WeeYari
 
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Man, that is a mess of codes. I hope you got the car cheap.

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Old 12-11-2018, 07:11 PM   #3
JCol91
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Man, that is a mess of codes. I hope you got the car cheap.

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I'd rather not get much into it, let's say it was kind of an impulse buy. I was pretty devastated after getting all the codes though. It is what it is so I can just make the best of it, fix what's worth fixing, drive it as much as I can and possibly flip to breakeven at most.
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Old 12-11-2018, 08:20 PM   #4
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Sounds like someone installed an a/t ecu in a manual trans car.

Imho I'd just re sell the car and hope to find a buyer that doesnt know much about cars and doesnt scan it before they buy it.

I'm not condoning screwing anyone over, but you were in that same place when you bought the car and it wasnt your car to begin with
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Old 12-11-2018, 08:54 PM   #5
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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If Trevor is right, it might be worth $38.00 to try this?:

DISCLAIMER: I'd provide your VIN to the seller - or Toyota - before purchasing, if you decide to go this route.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Toyota...prA6:rk:2:pf:0

How does the car drive other than the high idle?
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Old 12-12-2018, 07:19 AM   #6
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An excellent starting point would be getting into a shop and having your ECM VIN checked against the chassis VIN.

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Old 12-12-2018, 07:24 AM   #7
ex-x-fire
 
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If you clear the codes, do they all come back? If not, diagnosis the first one that does.
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Old 12-12-2018, 09:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ex-x-fire View Post
If you clear the codes, do they all come back? If not, diagnosis the first one that does.
That was gonna be my question. That is a ton of codes.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:49 AM   #9
komichal
 
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I am just wondering whether you bought the car with all the codes already active or did they just pop in after some driving was done?
I like the tmontague's theory about A/T ECU.
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Old 12-13-2018, 11:22 AM   #10
JCol91
 
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Thanks everybody.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Sounds like someone installed an a/t ecu in a manual trans car.

Imho I'd just re sell the car and hope to find a buyer that doesnt know much about cars and doesnt scan it before they buy it.

I'm not condoning screwing anyone over, but you were in that same place when you bought the car and it wasnt your car to begin with
I was thinking this over since half the codes that popped out were for what seems an A/T. Is there an online source that I can go to and check for M/T ECM numbers.

I checked the number on mine: 89661-52G51

If anybody here with and A/T car can confirm they have the same, I'll source an M/T ECU ASAP. Question: If I buy an M/T ECU, does it have to be programmed for the car? Or can it be plug-&-play?


Today I'll be doing some cleaning of the MAF sensor and test, I'll disconnect the battery also for a few minutes to reset and check for codes again.
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Old 12-13-2018, 12:10 PM   #11
tmontague
 
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Depends on if you have an immobilizer or not. No immo and its plug and play. With an immo the engine wont run until its programmed at the dealer

Edit* chances are you have a non immo ecu as they were not mandated in 2008 in the states like they were in Canada
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Old 12-19-2018, 05:20 PM   #12
JCol91
 
Drives: Toyota Yaris 2008
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Progress has been slow, but I'm getting to root of the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
An excellent starting point would be getting into a shop and having your ECM VIN checked against the chassis VIN.

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This was the first step. I called up a local dealer and checked my chassis VIN against ECM VIN and they match. The problem here is that the VIN is specific for an A/T car. So in conclusion it seems the car had a transmission swap (SELLER DID NOT DISCLOSE.. F&^KER) but whoever did it, didn't think about swapping an M/T ECM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Depends on if you have an immobilizer or not. No immo and its plug and play. With an immo the engine wont run until its programmed at the dealer

Edit* chances are you have a non immo ecu as they were not mandated in 2008 in the states like they were in Canada
With the info I have at hand, does it mean my car has an immobilizer? I'm thinking there is no way to tell since the stock ECM is in place. Can I get my hands on a M/T ECM and have it programmed for an A/T ECM VIN??

Can anybody point me in the direction to find a list of ECM numbers for M/T cars??

I read some folks have swapped M/Ts from a Scion xD, do they use same engine and tranny? Would a Scion ECM work?

Sorry for my ignorance, but again I've never ever worked on these cars in my life. All I can talk about is about RWD Volvos

Thanks
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:14 PM   #13
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I'm watching this as I may be about to learn something. My assumption has always been that the difference between A/T and M/T ECMs was simply a matter of a software flash, not a physically different part.

An A/T to M/T swap is no easy undertaking. If this indeed had been done then I would imagine there would be something that was not done as cleanly as factory. Perhaps something in the clutch pedal area would indicate that yes, a retrofit had been performed.

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