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Old 02-11-2016, 10:49 PM   #1
sv650steve
 
Drives: accord (for now)
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Thinking about getting a yaris

I really like the yaris. They are pretty nice and well within my price range. I currently have a 2000 v6 accord auto, but the slushbox transmission is probably going to go out soon. The yaris is the exact opposite of the accord it's light, nimble, and gets good gas mileage. My only drawback is the power. I was thinking I'd do some minor modifications and get a little bit more power out of it without investing huge amounts of money. I was thinking of doing a light weight flywheel, pulleys, header, then maybe intake. I don't want to go all the way for a turbo, or have to do tuning. I've heard of guys making an extra 15hp with their manual yaris. Can this be done without tuning and just bolt ons? I'm looking for something thats closer in power to my accord, granted it probably only makes 180hp at the wheels and 3300 pounds. Or would I be better off picking a different car.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:05 AM   #2
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I transitioned from a manual 5-spd Honda Accord EX Sedan (4 cylinder) about 6 months ago to my 2015 Toyota Yaris SE (manual 5-spd also). I really like it a lot, and it reminds me a lot of the driving fun of my Honda CRX Si from back in the mid-late 80's. For me, the acceleration of my Yaris is similar to that of my old Accord (and every other Honda/Acura that I have owned over the years), since the Horsepower-to-weight ratios are so similar. It has just enough zip for me to get the job done as a daily driver - but I am not a demanding or aggressive driver by nature. Still, I wish the SE model would have added about +20-25 more horsepower, just for the extra fun-factor, and to solidify its sportier image/badging.

Last edited by Kalispel; 02-12-2016 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:23 AM   #3
0BD1Kenobi
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE
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I went from a 2011 evo x to my 2012 yaris se manual, if you look past the hp numbers, the car is a blast to drive. I do drive mine aggressively pretty much everyday. I cant speak as far as numbers with performance part since ive never dynod mine, but a nice wheel tire combo, good coilover, throttle body, and tooter intake spacer the car in my option is fun, and thats coming from someone that had 350hp, awd, and turbo to maybe 100 n/a lol. I would say most important thing is driving experience if you havent driven one go test one out and see if its for you hp #s can always be changed with enough time and money. hope this helps!
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:50 AM   #4
Kar98
 
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If you don't put in any other mod (you will though, the car is like a damn LEGO toy with pieces snapping off and on easily to make work simpler), get the TRD rear sway bar. Costs $179, adds two grand worth of car ;)
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:48 PM   #5
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The Yaris, and many other small cars, are all about the illusion of speed. You may not actually be going terribly quickly but it's so fun that it doesn't matter. It's the same reason a go kart is a hoot!

My Yaris has a bunch of engine modifications and it's just as much fun to drive as my 265 hp Subaru WRX. It's not as fast, but still lot of fun.
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:58 PM   #6
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Invest in a header, intake manifold, 1zz throttle body, short ram intake, exhaust, lowering springs and rear sway bar. Then drive it hard.

If you aren't afraid of slamming it into second gear coming off of 70km/h merging onto the highway then this car has more than enough power. Most people are too shy to put the pedal to the floor. If you embrace the high revs and realize that the engine is more than capable to withstand it, than you're good to go.

Remember, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast then a fast car slow. Especially a slow car that weighs just over a ton
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:21 PM   #7
ern-diz
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
...If you embrace the high revs and realize that the engine is more than capable to withstand it, than you're good to go.

Remember, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast then a fast car slow. Especially a slow car that weighs just over a ton
My engine is stock, but this is still so true.
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Old 02-12-2016, 07:26 PM   #8
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I'm always made more aware of the shyness of North American drivers anytime I read reviews of economy cars.

Obviously this only goes for m/t for the most part. However, people are used to big 8 and 6 cylinder engines that have a lot of torque at under 3k rpm. Put them in a 4 banger and all of a sudden it's too slow on the highway.

Interesting thing is, the 4 banger isn't anymore slow than their typical highway merging acceleration. The problem is their lack of going wot and running up the rpm's.

Bottom line, if you only run a 4 banger up to 3k rpm then of course it'll be slow compared to a guzzling 8cyl.
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:27 PM   #9
Kar98
 
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LOL, here's a thread for you, Tmon:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ve-ever-driven
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:46 PM   #10
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^hehe good read
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:55 PM   #11
sv650steve
 
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I'm quite comfortable running my car at WOT. That's not an issue. So you guys think intake and exhaust is pretty much the way to go? I always thought it didn't really produce much and i'd be better off lightening things up first, flywheel, pulleys, rims. But i might be able to do alittle of both. I think i'd have a grand to put into it to start out. I wouldn't mind doing 1500 bucks worth of mods, not including a new set of tires. I also planned on doing the rear swaybar first thing, but that might be as far as i go with suspension cause i could quickly eat up my budget with suspension mods alone.
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Old 02-13-2016, 08:41 PM   #12
tmontague
 
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This my recommendation w/ 1500 USD:

rear sway bar ~ $160
Micro Image lowering springs (can find these or other for $99)
Find a used intake manifold for around $100-150 or even ebay ones (avoid $300 brand new ones)
1ZZ throttle body used ~$50
Header ~$400
Intake Manifold ~$600 used (there was one on the classifieds here)
Custom header back exhaust w/ secondary cat delete 2-2.25" diameter ~$250

If my math is right the custom exhaust will put you over your limit. I would wait on rims. The stock 15's aren't that heavy and they'll eat up your cash.

Another big handling helper is getting aftermarket rims with an offset of around +30 to 35. This makes a big difference on a small car. I noticed a lrger handling difference when I added 10mm rear spacer with -1.2 degree camber washers.

I'm sure others have recommendations but that's what I think will help and be the best bang for the buck. The lightweight pulley wasn't a big difference for me and I think the money is better spent elsewhere. The lw flywheel would help a lot but I'd first let the engine breath better and handle better.
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:26 PM   #13
sv650steve
 
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the intake manifold is really that expensive? from what i read you can get one that will fit and weld the flanges on from the stock on i think it came out of a celica or something similar. I like your suggestions. They all seem to be fairly easy mods. What kinda horsepower could i expect from exhaust and intake without a tune?
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Old 02-13-2016, 11:37 PM   #14
Frank the Tank
 
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You can modify a 1zz aluminum intake to fit the yaris engine but be prepared for some fabrication work. Or open up the wallet and have someone do it for you.

...or you can port out the stock intake.
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Old 02-13-2016, 11:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
This my recommendation w/ 1500 USD:

rear sway bar ~ $160
Micro Image lowering springs (can find these or other for $99)
Find a used intake manifold for around $100-150 or even ebay ones (avoid $300 brand new ones)
1ZZ throttle body used ~$50
Header ~$400
Intake Manifold ~$600 used (there was one on the classifieds here)
Custom header back exhaust w/ secondary cat delete 2-2.25" diameter ~$250

If my math is right the custom exhaust will put you over your limit. I would wait on rims. The stock 15's aren't that heavy and they'll eat up your cash.

Another big handling helper is getting aftermarket rims with an offset of around +30 to 35. This makes a big difference on a small car. I noticed a lrger handling difference when I added 10mm rear spacer with -1.2 degree camber washers.
So in terms of suspension, lowering springs on oem struts/shocks and a sway bar is all that's needed?
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Old 02-14-2016, 12:55 AM   #16
sv650steve
 
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i was thinking the 1zz would be my best bet. How much could just afew welds really cost? I was thinking just 100 bucks. I'd do all the cuts. It sounds alot cheaper than $600.
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Old 02-14-2016, 07:56 AM   #17
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So in terms of suspension, lowering springs on oem struts/shocks and a sway bar is all that's needed?
When cash flow is an issue yes. Ideally tokiko reds or blues are best
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:04 PM   #18
sv650steve
 
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I've got my plan pretty much figured out. When i get the car i'll do MI springs and rear swaybar first. How long do the factory shocks last? Will i be ok swapping springs at 100k ish miles thats what most of the cars i see on craigslist have. Also where do i get the flanges for the corolla manifold? Is there a right up on this? I have 3 or 4 junk yards i can hit and try to find some.
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