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Old 09-07-2017, 06:02 AM   #1
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
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Seeking Advice on Alternator or Repair

Hi.

I have the flickering battery light. My alternator puts out 13.9 - 14 V at idle and no charging problems but the daytime running lights are off. Member WeeYari confirmed that the DRLs can be off with a faulty voltage regulator. I read about the TSB to remove and clean the voltage regulator. Mine was very dirty and a lot of corrosion was present. After removing the regulator from the alternator and a thorough cleaning, I reinstalled and still have the battery light lit and no DRLs. I also cleaned the connector and it had quite a bit of corrosion on it too. The problem here is that if it is wiring/connector, I'm not sure how to test that.

I expect that this alternator is the original. I can pick up a voltage regulator for around $35.00 USD on eBay (knock off, not Toyota - or one of its OEM suppliers - for sure).

Would you recommend replacing the voltage regulator or just replacing with a reman alternator? I haven't priced locally, but CarQuest usually has good pricing and lifetime replacement warranty.


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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-09-2017 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:51 AM   #2
Bluevitz-rs
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You'd have to check the condition of the commutator and brushes. If they're in good shape, I'd just change the regulator.
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Old 09-07-2017, 12:53 PM   #3
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
You'd have to check the condition of the commutator and brushes. If they're in good shape, I'd just change the regulator.
Thanks BlueVitz. I ended picking up a reman locally. With our school discount it was around $200.00 CAD. I didn't want to order a regulator on eBay and wait. This is probably more expensive in the long run but I'm not the most patient sort.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:28 PM   #4
06YarisRS
 
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No more battery light!

Installed a reman alternator. Job was much easier and quick tonight as I'd loosened and lubed everything last night. So happy not to have the battery light on.


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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:58 PM   #5
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
So happy not to have the battery light on.
...and the DRLs are working again as well right?


Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:05 PM   #7
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Haha! Thanks!
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:11 PM   #8
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
...and the DRLs are working again as well right?


Sent from my Elite_5_5_Octa using Tapatalk
They are indeed, WeeYari!

I've gotta say, I think I'm really going to enjoy working on this little buggy. It is so easy, especially when compared to some of the other vehicles I've owned.

Tomorrow's project is painting the liftgate and bumper. I've decided to do it myself. I save between $300.00 and $400.00 doing so. I put the savings toward complete new brakes in the back. ordered drums, shoes, hardware kit, auto adjuster and wheel cylinders - all under $100.00 CAD. Gotta love Rock Auto.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/
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Old 09-13-2019, 12:46 AM   #9
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I have exactly the same problem!
I cleaned regulator as described although very little obvious corrosion. But still battery light is on and no daytime running lights, both should receive signals from the regulator. Should I check voltages on the 4 wires from regulator (engine on/off?) or change the regulator or alternator?

However I think following 06YarisRS experience a reman alternator is the answer, around C$130. Where on eBay can you get a regulator for $35!!?

I suspected that the DRLs not functioning was also regulator caused so it's great to find that it is probably true. 2 of the 4 wires in the regulator output plug are for the battery light and the DRL. The voltage regulation is perfect across all loads, so does that mean the other 2 wires (to and from the computer are somehow working? Strange eh?
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