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Old 12-21-2018, 06:24 AM   #145
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<2000lbs + 150whp = 1.22.9 at TMP

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Old 12-21-2018, 10:30 AM   #146
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Don’t cut it up man, you’re going to miss it as a fun daily
It can still be driven in the street cut up. I just wont he dailying it. There is way to much speed left in this car is I keep it comfortable as a daily, its already past the point if a comfy daily for me

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<2000lbs + 150whp = 1.22.9 at TMP

Haha yup, as long as the driver is good enough
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Old 12-21-2018, 01:27 PM   #147
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Do you guys think removing the rear seat and related hardware would throw the overall balance off much, or affect rigidity? Is there a point of diminishing returns?
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Old 12-21-2018, 02:33 PM   #148
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I dont think it would affect rigidity too much and likely not enough weight to really throw off the balance. If anything it may help the rear rotate more, but probably bit a big difference
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:43 PM   #149
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Ah, all makes sense to me. I wasn't aware that the 2ZR could produce that power. The cams sound really promising. I did read that the 2ZZ has similar power output up to ~6500 RPM, then it comes on a lot stronger. Very informative stuff. Thanks.
My last vibe GT made 165whp with just an intake, fwiw.

But a 2zz/c60 won’t fit without cutting from rails, iirc.

I always thought the 2zr is the way to go in a Yaris..
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Old 12-22-2018, 07:44 AM   #150
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My last vibe GT made 165whp with just an intake, fwiw.

But a 2zz/c60 won’t fit without cutting from rails, iirc.

I always thought the 2zr is the way to go in a Yaris..
That was the 2.4 in the GT, right? Oops, disregard. Not the 2.4.
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Old 12-22-2018, 09:34 AM   #151
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My last vibe GT made 165whp with just an intake, fwiw.

But a 2zz/c60 won’t fit without cutting from rails, iirc.

I always thought the 2zr is the way to go in a Yaris..
That's not too shabby for just an intake. If someone was looking to compare bone stock engines and didn't mins the frame (and money wasnt as issue) then yes a 2zz would make the most sense. But when looking into aftermarket parts and running a standalone ecu I think the 2zr makes a lot more sense
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:03 PM   #152
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I received an online gift card from my work for the holidays so I put it to use on Amazon. Ordered a proper catch can to replace my dual air compressor air/water separators. I also picked up a Mishimoto magnetic transmission plug as per Tom's recommendations. It was priced fairly well and it seems like a good idea since I have a clutch type lsd.

I had some extra cash left over so I also ordered a TRD radiator cap. It is overpriced for what it is but the online gift card was very limiting on where I could use it and Amazon Canada isn't great for automotive part inventory. It's more of a "just in case" part. I will be properly dealing with the cooling issues with a dual core radiator in the summer, but the extra pressure that the TRD cap offers is just some extra protection from boiling in case something goes wrong and the coolant temps creep up again.

I also found a local guy about an hour away who was parting out his 2000 Echo that his buddy crashed. I pulled the radiator hoses, fan shroud and coolant fill neck. They are all in surprisingly good condition, I'm assuming the hoses had been replaced one time in their life. All I need now for the rad swap is an ebay dual core radiator and I'll probably also order some silicone hoses too just in case.

That's all for now, I'm anxiously awaiting updates on the long tube header ;)
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:22 PM   #153
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Old 01-14-2019, 01:14 PM   #154
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A/C bit the dust

Welp, I installed my Mishimoto magnetic transmission plug this weekend (went in without any issues into the fill hole), and while in there I inspected my engine bay to make sure everything was Kosher. Sure enough, I find some greenish yellow a/c die around my low pressure discharge hose that goes into the compressor. My first thought "well its a darn good thing I added dye into the system as it makes diagnosis much easier". My second thought was "damn, my a/c system is now toast" - I haven't actually confirmed 100% but it appears my 11 year old low pressure hose has blown all the refrigerant out at the metal/rubber crimp. A common place of failures, especially on Nissan's and it appears this just happened to be due to age.

No hoses were rubbing and everything looked sound. Now I'm faced with the dilemma, do I spend around $100 CAD for an aftermarket hose, plus r134 (which I already have) and the hour or so repairing the leak for just one more summer of DDing the car, or do I pocket the cash and strip out all my a/c components now and put my car on a 30-40ish pound diet?

For me it is an easy answer but keep in mind I will be picking up my son occasionally from day care this summer and it is nice to have a/c for him as well as anytime I am dressed nicely and heading to a dinner or something and don't want to sweat my through my clothes. At this point I have convinced my wife to just leave the a/c system no functioning for the rare occasion I am picking up the kids in my car and it happens to be 35 degrees C out. When I stripped my interior, I kept the window switches connected and zip tied so I still have full control of the windows on those hot days.

It looks like my car will become a bit lighter over the next couple months, albeit a whole lot hotter this summer...

I also loosely test fitted the 1st gen radiator and it appears that the upper rad hose will clear the 2zr without issue. The problem point will actually be the DC sports CAI as the throttle body on the 2zr is at an upward angle compared to the mose straight 1nz TB. I am either going to have to find a comparable 30mm upper hose form another car or just put some sort of rubber material between the hose and the intake tube as they will likely be rubbing. The problem is I will not actually know how well it will or won't work until the new rad and shroud are in their actual places. This will likely have to be saved until the spring when I drain my winter coolant for the summer stuff ansd then I can mix and match the rads without making a mess
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:29 PM   #155
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...it appears my 11 year old low pressure hose has blown all the refrigerant out at the metal/rubber crimp.
Sure that's not because there is extra tension on there as the distance to the port with the 2ZR swap is a bit farther? Is it the crimp at the bottom of the low pressure side? Mine has some tension on it too, though much less than before I bent the aluminum tube part. I think the engine rocking back and forth a bit with that tension might fatigue the rubber where it's crimped.

Once you ditch your condensor, you can put a nice big oil cooler on there, LOL!
Have you done the spin-on oil filter conversion? Can't recall if you mentioned that.
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Old 01-14-2019, 09:51 PM   #156
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That's a possibility but I rechecked it tonight and the hoses have virtually no stress on them. I spent time when I did the swap bending the metal part of the hose in a vice and re doing it a bunch so the rubber part had no excess stress on it.

That said it is a complete possibility since it isnt a known issue for these hoses to regularly fail on the Yaris.

I did do the filter conversion - so that I could install a sandwich plate for my oil temp and pressure gauges. I dont think I'll be getting an oil cooler. Last season with crazy hot ambient temps and my coolant running at 234 degrees I only peaked oil temps at about 285F. Once I have the larger radiator in there the problem should only improve.

I am awaiting my most recent UOA from Blackstone which I will post up here once i look at it. There should be no reason the oil cannot handle those temps. I will however be running a 40weight oil next season so the viscocity stays up to spec in those temps
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Old 01-15-2019, 06:20 AM   #157
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That's a possibility but I rechecked it tonight and the hoses have virtually no stress on them. I spent time when I did the swap bending the metal part of the hose in a vice and re doing it a bunch so the rubber part had no excess stress on it.

That said it is a complete possibility since it isnt a known issue for these hoses to regularly fail on the Yaris.

I did do the filter conversion - so that I could install a sandwich plate for my oil temp and pressure gauges. I dont think I'll be getting an oil cooler. Last season with crazy hot ambient temps and my coolant running at 234 degrees I only peaked oil temps at about 285F. Once I have the larger radiator in there the problem should only improve.

I am awaiting my most recent UOA from Blackstone which I will post up here once i look at it. There should be no reason the oil cannot handle those temps. I will however be running a 40weight oil next season so the viscocity stays up to spec in those temps
Although 285 for even a second would freak me out, here is a quote from BITOG - and it's for GF-4, not the current GF-5:

"...GF-4 certification is on the bottle of the oil in your crankcase, it has passed the Sequence IIIG test which exposes the oil to 300F degrees for 100 hrs at 3600 rpm."

It sounds like you're definitely ok. I assume your running a synthetic?

I really like the idea of doing the spin-on upgrade.
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:52 AM   #158
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The spin on conversion really has no benefit unless you need/want to run a sandwich adapter for gauges.
I actually prefer the original set up as it makes it much easier to view the filter and any particulates that were caught.

I do run off the shelf full synthetic oils, the current sample I'm waiting on is Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and my past UOA's were with Mobil 1 0w30. Unfortunately PUP and even PP isnt available locally in a 40 weight so I'll be switching to something else.

I have so far had no reason to need a boutique brand oil that costs much more. Even grade III synthetics are very stout oils and can easily compare to many IV's as they just have that many more additives to make up for it.

The next oil I have been eyeing in Canadian Tire's Formula 1 (made by Shell) as they have a 0w40 euro spec. The Euro specs have a much higher HTHS due to their use of the autobahn. This obviously pairs well with my track use.

Overall temp of a full syn oil isnt really the issue - it is the cause of the issue. If the oil thins too low then lowering temps can help that. Alternatively you can run a higher weight oil that will maintain factory spec viscocity at those higher temps. The 2zr is a factory spec'd 20 weight oil in NA but a 30 weight in hotter climates (allegedly) this is based on 212F summer oil temps of normal use. Based on my research a 40 weight should bring me closer to those viscocities at 260-280F I typically run at on track
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Old 01-15-2019, 12:28 PM   #159
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Here's some pics of the refrigerant leak



as you can see, it appears to be blowing out of the crimp on the low pressure hose. For any future 2zr swap I would recommend replacing this hose with the proper xd hose. It is a relatively inexpensive part and is much easier to do when the a/c system is already apart.

There is no way to know if this was due to the yaris hose being too stressed or if it is just age, so better to be safe than sorry. FWIW, it appears the leak has gotten bigger over the past 2 days so I think it is still blowing out. I'll likely remove my ac system this weekend if I can secure a belt locally for cheap.

I also started something new last night. For a while I've notive the front grill is fairly restrictive to air flow and I wanted to do something about it but wasn't sure what. The winter time when I'm itching to work on my car is a good time for these things. Now that the car is becoming more and more of a track rat, I am concerned less about looks and more about function. I removed the front grills and just threw in some gutter guard that I picked up for $5 at my local CT.



I actually prefer the larger mouth of the grill removed and it is definitely much larger. That said, if I wanted this to look good I would use some chicken wire painted black as this gutter guard is fairly flimsy and bends and caves. As i said, I'm not concerned with that as I don't care much about making this look really good. I still have to do the lower grill this weekend. The upper grill has holes which makes it really easy to use as attachment points for zipties. The lower grill I will have to drill some hole to run zipties into.

I had originally removed the black plastic piece that sits under the upper front bumper so I could access my horns much easier if I needed to work on them (I had issues with them in the past that are now fixed). I realized now that there is a huge gap for the air to blow over the rad without that plastic piece. I will be clipping that back in so it directs the air through the radiator instead.

There is a lot more width to fit a much wider radiator in the front of the engine bay and there are even extra holes in the upper and lower rad supports. I'm curious what other radiator would be an almost direct drop in. The problem is finding the proper hoses to work with the engine and not obstruct anything else. I think for now it is best to just stick with what is known to work and go with a dual core 1st gen radiator. Others have run these in the past and they seem to offer more than enough cooling.

I hate a cluttered engine bay, I'm looking forward to getting rid of the a/c system and eventually relocating the battery. For the time being my cash is being saved until news comes in for the long tube header and the midpipe work I will need done from a local shop.
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Old 01-15-2019, 03:57 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
The spin on conversion really has no benefit unless you need/want to run a sandwich adapter for gauges.
I actually prefer the original set up as it makes it much easier to view the filter and any particulates that were caught.

I do run off the shelf full synthetic oils, the current sample I'm waiting on is Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and my past UOA's were with Mobil 1 0w30. Unfortunately PUP and even PP isnt available locally in a 40 weight so I'll be switching to something else.

I have so far had no reason to need a boutique brand oil that costs much more. Even grade III synthetics are very stout oils and can easily compare to many IV's as they just have that many more additives to make up for it.

The next oil I have been eyeing in Canadian Tire's Formula 1 (made by Shell) as they have a 0w40 euro spec. The Euro specs have a much higher HTHS due to their use of the autobahn. This obviously pairs well with my track use.

Overall temp of a full syn oil isnt really the issue - it is the cause of the issue. If the oil thins too low then lowering temps can help that. Alternatively you can run a higher weight oil that will maintain factory spec viscocity at those higher temps. The 2zr is a factory spec'd 20 weight oil in NA but a 30 weight in hotter climates (allegedly) this is based on 212F summer oil temps of normal use. Based on my research a 40 weight should bring me closer to those viscocities at 260-280F I typically run at on track
Great explanation. I have done quite a bit of reading over the past few years at BITOG. I used to always buy synthetic, but have since returned to conventional. I'm always monitoring my coolant and oil temps in my van as Kia makes many more sensors available than Toyota. I can't get oil pressure, however. After driving for a bit, oil temps are usually ~10 - 15 degrees higher. If I apply the same logic to my Yaris, even under extreme conditions - such as bumper to bumper traffic in August - there would never be a need for anything other than an API conventional. In my old Dodge grand Caravan, I installed a homebuilt tee and monitored both oil temp and pressure with cheap electrical gauges. I also tapped the transmission lines for both a Magnaflow and temp sensor.

One synthetic I do did buy occasionally, and will still buy when it goes on clearance at Walmart USA is the SuperTech Full Synthetic. The last 6 jugs I bought, I think i paid $12.00 a jug for. According to some reports it's not a superlative looking oil on paper - with a relatively low TBN - but fares really well in UOAs.

As for the spin on filter, at some point I expect that I might add a sandwich plate and gauges since I can't get this data from OBD. And, in the unlikely event that I decide to significantly ungrade the 2ZR performance, this would obviously come in handy.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:17 PM   #161
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Great explanation. I have done quite a bit of reading over the past few years at BITOG. I used to always buy synthetic, but have since returned to conventional. I'm always monitoring my coolant and oil temps in my van as Kia makes many more sensors available than Toyota. I can't get oil pressure, however. After driving for a bit, oil temps are usually ~10 - 15 degrees higher. If I apply the same logic to my Yaris, even under extreme conditions - such as bumper to bumper traffic in August - there would never be a need for anything other than an API conventional. In my old Dodge grand Caravan, I installed a homebuilt tee and monitored both oil temp and pressure with cheap electrical gauges. I also tapped the transmission lines for both a Magnaflow and temp sensor.

One synthetic I do did buy occasionally, and will still buy when it goes on clearance at Walmart USA is the SuperTech Full Synthetic. The last 6 jugs I bought, I think i paid $12.00 a jug for. According to some reports it's not a superlative looking oil on paper - with a relatively low TBN - but fares really well in UOAs.

As for the spin on filter, at some point I expect that I might add a sandwich plate and gauges since I can't get this data from OBD. And, in the unlikely chance that I decide to significantly ungrade the 2ZR performance, this would obviously come in handy.
oddly enough I have found that currently during the winter, oil temps hover about 10 degree lower than coolant (coolant stays around 181F) but on the highway when I'm hovering around 3.5k rpm, the oil is either equal or slightly higher than the typical 185F coolant temp.

In the middle of summer coolant will typically be 188-194F on the highway and oil around 212F. In stop and go traffic mid summer coolant peaks around 212F but tends to stay at 202F and oil around 220F max.

During 45min track session coolant stays between 220 and 235F and oil gets up to 265-290F.

I run off the shelf syn oil in all my cars simply due to the really cold winters here and how much easier it is to start them. Even my awd Vibe, gets 0w30 and syn gear lube in the differential. I have found the morning start ups much smoother, especially up North at the cottage after it sits over night. It's true that a dino 5w30 would still be pumpable at these temps, but a syn oil is that much less viscous and easier to pump, meaning easier to start and faster and better lubrication. I just wait until they are on sale and typically find 5L jugs for around $37.

I use syn oil in my car for obvious reasons. I wouldn't trust a dino oil at 290F and under high rpm for 45 mins. I have very little burning off of oil even with the summer filled with track days, likely due to the lower volatility that syn oil has.

i am interested to see how my coolant and oil temps stack up this summer without a condenser in front of my rad, a now much larger grill and a dual pass radiator. I would expect coolant to stay below 220F but as for the oil I'm not too sure.
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Old 01-21-2019, 02:46 PM   #162
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A/C removal and front grill fix

It decided to snow about 50cm on Saturday and then sit at -20C for the weekend so progress on my car was slowed. With having 2 kids now I'm limited to working on the cars about 2 hrs a day on the weekend while the little ones sleep.

I ended up purchasing some new gutter guard called "Leaf It". Same design as the one from Canadian Tire but a couple $ more and it is s thicker plastic. In re did the front grill but this time in 2 separate pieced converging in the center which lead for a much stronger and flat grill. I also drilled holes and did the bottom mouth of the grill. I am actually pretty happy with the final product and like the look over the stock look.

I got around to deleting my a/c system - well, everything except for the evaporator. I'll get to that when I remove the dash this spring. I probably got rid of about 18lbs. Not much, but there is now much more space in front of the alternator which makes removal much easier as well as a wider radiator possible. I am a huge fan of uncluttered engine bays and so far mine is moving in the correct direction. I will end up selling my compressor down the road if anyone is interested just let me know. I ordered a Dayco belt from my local supplier, they don't stock non a/c belt for Corolla's so they had to order it in. I'll post up the part number when I take pictures later this week when it warms up. I was surprised how much the a/c hoses cluttered up the passenger side crash beam and all that space there.

with the bumper off and the a/c system out I noticed that there is an 8" wide gaping space behind the bumper that is normally just covered with a plastic piece to block it off. Essentially this is 8" of extra space to fit a much wider radiator as the stock one is very small. Oddly enough my 1st gen Vibe's radiator which also uses a 1.8L engine (1zz) has a 6-8" wider radiator from the factory. I will be taking some measurements tonight but it appears that the rad should fit fine with a bunch of cutting of the upper rad support. The Vibe's rad sits in front of the rad support on brackets whereas the Yaris' rad sits underneath the rad support beam.

It makes more sense to go wider with a rad than just thicker as you achieve more virgin surface area and improve cooling ability better than by going thicker. This is due to the second row receiving already used air that is warmer than ambient temps. The measurements are very close (Vibe rad about an inch shorter in height) so with some drilling of new hole in the support and the Vibe's upper and lower hoses it appears to be a good fit. The upper hose from the vibe actually appears to have better clearance with my CAI than the 1st gen rad. There are also cheap ebay dual core rads for almost the same amount of $ as the 1st gens.

I'll post back when I have more info as this would be good to know for those that want to upgrade their radiator down the road but so far everything seems like it would work. I'll post pictures in a couple days, it is just too darn cold right now to bother
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