How hard I should try to remove spark plug

[esse10]

another thing that works pretty good is using black electrical tape to keep the socket attached to the extension and also you can use some tape at the end of the socket to temporarily hold the new spark plug in the socket as you put it back in the hole. Just lower it down slow and get a few threads started then pull out the extension & socket, then move the end tape out of the way and use the same socket/extension & ratchet & regularly tighten plug snug tight. then you can torque as required. I can post a picture of this if anybody wishes, I have been doing that method on all my cars for years now. Don't use the socket that has the rubber o-ring inside used to remove the spark plug because sometimes that rubber o-ring comes off and stays stuck deep in the hole and now you would be doing wasted work trying to fish that out of the hole. & I don't like putting wd40 on my new plugs either, just regular dialectric grease to keep moisture away.

[mf4361]

I finally got a chance this afternoon to change the plugs out. I used a 5/8" spark plug socket, 6" extension and a ratchet. It took a little more force than I expected to get it out. (So first thought is it might have seized up) But as suggested above a firm turn on the ratchet break it loose and it got out easily.

The old plugs are actually still in pretty good shape after 126000km (and they drove well) but its good preventive maintenance so I don't get stranded on the roadside when the time comes

After installing the new plugs, engine starts better, the starter clicks 2-3 times and it starts (compared to 4-5 clicks before). I don't see a big improvement in Performance/economy. However, Idle seems to be quieter and at high rev (>4500) it definitely sounded smoother.

Thanks for all your help and advice!!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uyvsib1ctv...329_164906.jpg

[bronsin]

Awesome glad you endevoured to persevere and you had no trouble!

[junorico24]

Originally Posted by mf4361

I finally got a chance this afternoon to change the plugs out. I used a 5/8" spark plug socket, 6" extension and a ratchet. It took a little more force than I expected to get it out. (So first thought is it might have seized up) But as suggested above a firm turn on the ratchet break it loose and it got out easily.

The old plugs are actually still in pretty good shape after 126000km (and they drove well) but its good preventive maintenance so I don't get stranded on the roadside when the time comes

After installing the new plugs, engine starts better, the starter clicks 2-3 times and it starts (compared to 4-5 clicks before). I don't see a big improvement in Performance/economy. However, Idle seems to be quieter and at high rev (>4500) it definitely sounded smoother.

Thanks for all your help and advice!!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uyvsib1ctv...329_164906.jpg

Next is to change the transmission fluid and that would improve your shifting and ride a bit.

Get yourself a long clear tube and a bottle. Cut the bottle in half, drill a hole on the cap of the bottle put the clear hose through it. This is to get the fluid into your tranny hole.

NEXT undo the fill plug first, very important.Then the bottom drain plug is next.

By the way do it on a level area. Let the fluid drip out onto a catch pan, after it empties completely put the plug back on snug. Then fill it up by using your DIY half bottle with a clear tube.Slide this apparatus into the fill hole.

Then all you have to do is get 2 quarts of synthetic manual transmission fluid.Pour it into the bottle this will go down onto the clear tube and into the fill hole.Fill it up until it drips out. Let it level out then put the fill plug back on and torque it snug.

[alfredyeez]

One more important tip - apply some anti-seize on the plug treads to ensure easy removal the next time.

[mf4361]

Originally Posted by junorico24

Next is to change the transmission fluid and that would improve your shifting and ride a bit.

Get yourself a long clear tube and a bottle. Cut the bottle in half, drill a hole on the cap of the bottle put the clear hose through it. This is to get the fluid into your tranny hole.

NEXT undo the fill plug first, very important.Then the bottom drain plug is next.

By the way do it on a level area. Let the fluid drip out onto a catch pan, after it empties completely put the plug back on snug. Then fill it up by using your DIY half bottle with a clear tube.Slide this apparatus into the fill hole.

Then all you have to do is get 2 quarts of synthetic manual transmission fluid.Pour it into the bottle this will go down onto the clear tube and into the fill hole.Fill it up until it drips out. Let it level out then put the fill plug back on and torque it snug.

Good DIY write up. But the car had a transmission fluid change about 30000km ago (just before I owned it) so I guess it'll last longer than that.
Btw, mine has a AT gearbox.

Originally Posted by alfredyeez

One more important tip - apply some anti-seize on the plug treads to ensure easy removal the next time.

Reading from NGK tech bulletin: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

they suggests that applying anti-seize on plugs with chrome-plated thread will cause mistakenly overtightened plugs. I have the NKG IX plugs and the threads are shiny so I think that applies to me.

[bronsin]

Yes that can happen if you use a torque wrench. Torque values are for DRY threads.

Also antiseize has been known to short plugs out.