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Old 05-10-2012, 06:43 PM   #55
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:53 PM   #56
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:30 PM   #57
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Makes a good case for vaccinations.
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:04 PM   #58
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:17 PM   #59
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well i don't the header was worth the time very little to no gain if you ask me and i do have a intake and cat back system on my lb plus major heat under the hood compared to stock header i only noticed a slight gain right after the car shifts into 2nd gear well maybe the mpg will go up slightly but i wont hold my breath on that either who ever did the megan header diy was wrong about the collector bolts and bracket 14mm not 15mm like was stated in that diy thread
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:29 AM   #60
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That was my experience also, penny,..
No difference at the higher rpms, except for me it was well worth the increase in bottom end torque because that's why I bought it. Don't forget to disconnect and reconnect your battery so that the computer can relearn the altered parameters.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:41 AM   #61
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i do have a intake and cat back system on my lb
Did you weld on a custom exhaust? Or do you actually have an axle-back system?
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:42 AM   #62
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well i don't the header was worth the time very little to no gain if you ask me
Have you driven enough (at least 3-5 cold-start to warm driving cycles) after disconnecting the battery to complete your ECU's relearn?
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:14 AM   #63
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Ok but sorry for the thread jack but quick question... I installed the megan headers but I didnt install the donut (bought it used and stock didnt fit).. I installed them but have a NASTY leak. Does anyone know where to get a new donut for the megan headers to get rid of this leak??
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:00 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by EPyarisdriver View Post
Ok but sorry for the thread jack but quick question... I installed the megan headers but I didnt install the donut (bought it used and stock didnt fit).. I installed them but have a NASTY leak. Does anyone know where to get a new donut for the megan headers to get rid of this leak??
Thanks
Was the stock donut too small to fit your Megan?

The stock donut is 45mm. If it was too small, I encountered the same situation except the seller included a larger 47mm donut.

Google:

"exhaust doughnut gasket"

There's piles of them... but you first need to determine exactly the diameter you need.

Last edited by tooter; 05-12-2012 at 03:14 AM.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:30 AM   #65
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cali yaris i have a after market cat back exhaust made by thunder i will leave the battery disconnected tonight and re hook in the morning

Last edited by pennyracer; 05-12-2012 at 09:30 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:41 PM   #66
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well im not impressed with the header i would say you lose power from a dead stop and i dont like the extra heat the header puts off guess im not a happy camper so the header will be fore sale in the next week for $100 plus shipping cost so if anyone wants to buy a week and half old weapon r header its all yours just let me know

Last edited by pennyracer; 05-15-2012 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:48 PM   #67
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@ EPyarisdriver: the Megan header has larger size tubing; I have extra donuts for it.

@ pennyracer: sorry to hear you don't like it; I'm sure someone will take it off your hands. You haven't cycled your ECU enough yet. It definitely does not cause a loss in power.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:32 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by pennyracer View Post
well im not impressed with the header i would say you lose power from a dead stop and i dont like the extra heat the header puts off guess im not a happy camper so the header will be fore sale in the next week for $100 plus shipping cost so if anyone wants to buy a week and half old weapon r header its all yours just let me know
Sounds like something else is wrong with your car because there's no way for a header to hurt the engine's performance unless the gasketed joints were leaking. I don't have any more underhood heat than with the stock header, but then it was the new thin pressed sheetmetal design which is not any thicker than the header tubing. If your engine is running too lean, it will make the header blazing hot. How many cold start cycles have you gone through so far? It takes a few for the computer to relearn the new parameters. My opinion is that there is something else wrong besides the header, of which the extra heat may be an indicator.

Last edited by tooter; 05-15-2012 at 01:56 AM.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:19 AM   #69
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there is nothing wrong with my car i assure you . I have driven the car 4 times since unhooking the battery over night the heat problem is due to no heat shield on it so all the heat just rises straight up . from driving to the store and back the strut bar over the top of motor is almost to hot to touch i wish i would have checked the engine bay temp before header install just to see the difference. I would put money on it that from dead stop that the header hurt the take off also my car is a automatic and noise is not power i have past that stage in my life long ago i will drive it some more this week and see if things get better. someone that wants to build a header that covers all bases there needs to be heat shield and to utilize the third bolt for support on collector flange to keep things secure and little less motor movement

Last edited by pennyracer; 05-15-2012 at 09:30 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:13 AM   #70
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ok...
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:29 AM   #71
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tooter you can get off the line with any rpm you choose with a manual trans i dont have that option with a automatic i think thats why you dont notice the lack of power just from take off once the car has a few thousand rpm its fine or better than stock a tiny bit also running a bigger rim and tire combo only makes things worse when you take off from a dead stop i have 17" wheels you have 15" stock i assume my car had better acceleration with my 15" tire and wheel combo i ran before

Last edited by pennyracer; 05-15-2012 at 11:34 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:59 AM   #72
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tooter you can get off the line with any rpm you choose with a manual trans i dont have that option with a automatic i think thats why you dont notice the lack of power just from take off once the car has a few thousand rpm its fine or better than stock a tiny bit also running a bigger rim and tire combo only makes things worse when you take off from a dead stop i have 17" wheels you have 15" stock i assume my car had better acceleration with my 15" tire and wheel combo i ran before
Oh, I didn't know you had an automatic, so you're absolutely right, I wouldn't notice any power loss at take off because of the throttle and clutch variables. Only in a fixed gear at between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm is the increased torque noticeable. The engine is hardly working to keep the car moving. In an automatic transmission it's likely that wouldn't even be felt because of the variable fluid coupling.

While I did change the wheels and tires I checked a compatibility chart and compensated with the tire aspect to keep exactly the same stock diameter so that the speedometer and odometer would remain accurate. An automatic transmission is a liability with such a small engine, and no header can compensate for that. I had a heck of a time finding a stick because only 1.5% of the new Yaris's sold have manual transmissions.
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