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Old 11-10-2012, 03:27 PM   #1
xnamerxx
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My Long Tube header build

Well I figured I would start here just to let everyone know that I've started step one on my long tube header build and got the parts needed to make it. Hopefully I can get this finished in the next couple of weeks as I need a few parts cut.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:05 PM   #2
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I'll be following your exhaust project with great interest. Be sure to post lots of pics.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:37 PM   #3
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Thanks, I've had this design on paper for a while so its finally time to move forward.

I should have the flange cut some time next week...kind of surprised how close my design was from working from some random dimensions I found on the internet and looking at pictures. The only problem I'm running into now is that 1.375" mandrel U-Bends are ridiculously difficult to find but otherwise everything else is pretty much ready to move forward.

The only thing left I really need to get a hold of is a stock manifold so I can jig everything up and get the basic shape tacked in place then test fitting and fixing everything in place and finish machining the flange so its surface can take a gasket.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:14 PM   #4
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If I was going to build a header, I'd get one of these cheapies off Ebay for $59 and free shipping...



...chop off the tubes and use the factory machined ready-to-bolt-on flange, 4 to1 collector, O2 sensor bung, and two bolt gasketed fitting for your own long tube header. It's worth more than that just as separate parts.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:58 PM   #5
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Most of the cheapies use 1.5" tubing which is way way to large for this engine so you'll end up with a huge loss of torque and a powerband that's to high up. I initially thought of that but the material cost of the header isn't all that expensive and buying SS to modify that thing isn't worth it.

I'm building it out of regular carbon steel even making the flange myself and all in it should be less than 300 dollars for metal plus the 3-4 hours its going to take me to weld everything up.

I'm actually working on a 4-2-1 header, so I can make it small enough to fit before the second cat.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnamerxx View Post
Most of the cheapies use 1.5" tubing which is way way to large for this engine so you'll end up with a huge loss of torque and a powerband that's to high up. I initially thought of that but the material cost of the header isn't all that expensive and buying SS to modify that thing isn't worth it.

I'm building it out of regular carbon steel even making the flange myself and all in it should be less than 300 dollars for metal plus the 3-4 hours its going to take me to weld everything up.

I'm actually working on a 4-2-1 header, so I can make it small enough to fit before the second cat.
Oh, I see. Very well thought out.
Steel should be easier to work with. I'll enjoy seeing what you come up with.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:58 AM   #7
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When I finally build mine, it's going to be a 1.5" to 1.75" to 2.0" 4-2-1 header. From the numbers, it's a bit big, but it will be 30-36" long, so the power band should peak in the 4-5k area.

Can't wait to see your build! :)
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:29 AM   #8
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All i'm going to say is 1.5" is really really big for initial primaries if you're dead set on that I'd set it from 1.375 to 1.5. Going to big on the primaries is bad but going to small isn't necessarily.

Overall I think the length is close to 30" but my peak torque spot shouldn't change only get a few % higher.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:46 AM   #9
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I notice that you're SoCal, namer. How will you deal with smog tests?
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:24 PM   #10
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Since my setup still has a cat it should pass but I'll likely just swap back the stock parts for the smog test.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:53 PM   #11
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:19 PM   #12
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There was a race header in works pre-hack so glad someone's finally going through it!
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:28 PM   #13
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I'll try to get as many pics as possible

I think that was richard holdener's header. I looked at his design for initial inspiration but there was a few things here and there I felt that could be improved. The 4-1 design works and it works really well but I can accomplish the same performance if not better in a lighter/smaller 4-2-1 package, the only downside being that a 4-2-1 is more expensive to make due to all the collectors required to make it work.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:32 PM   #14
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It was his.

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Old 11-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #15
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I'm not a metalurgist but the ebay one is about as stainless as a hookers underwear. I bought one and am currently using it with no failure. Upon slight modification, I learned that I could weld on it with mild wire and it held up very well to a grinder. Penetration was good and rainbowing was non-existent. I would almost guess that they use the minimum possible chromium and nickel to be able to call it stainless. As soon as this header craps out, I'm using the flange to make a long tube header myself.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:51 PM   #16
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You can get flanges on eBay for about $30 + shipping, that's where I got my OBX flange from.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:01 PM   #17
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That was originally my plan but I didn't like the sloppiness of the OBX flange from the pictures, plus being 1/2" thick would be a bitch to weld on. So I decided to draw and make my own. It's in a format the machinist likes and I should have it cut some time this week.

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Old 11-12-2012, 09:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
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That was originally my plan but I didn't like the sloppiness of the OBX flange from the pictures, plus being 1/2" thick would be a bitch to weld on. So I decided to draw and make my own. It's in a format the machinist likes and I should have it cut some time this week.

I can definitely confirm that, the OBX flange is not cleanly cut. It will take some finessing with a die grinder to get it smooth.
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