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Old 06-13-2012, 12:38 PM   #55
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This event was also an experiment for me, I wanted to test to see how the car performs with the front sway bar disconnected. The one thing I noticed immediately was the car had way more traction off the line, this helps because I can rev the nuts off the engine and get it moving whereas before I would flow the passenger tire away. Handling wise the car is completely different you would definitely need much stiffer springs to do this since body roll increases dramatically which also causes turn in to suffer. The car also developed a pretty bad tenancy to oversteer when lifting off and applying the brakes it was easily controllable but it kept me from keeping the car on the edge of grip. The main benefit to removing the front bar was the insane amount of grip available on corner exit, I've been so used to the inside tire spinning I wasn't trusting the car was going to have grip available when I got on it but it held on each and every time.
It takes a lot of spring rate, and even more rebound in your shocks to pull that off.

If your car has the 24mm front try and locate a 23mm, helps with rotation and getting power down, but its not as big of a leap as pulling the bar.
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Last edited by Jason@SportsCar; 06-13-2012 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Wrong sizes listed
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:48 PM   #56
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The 22mm bar is from a 07 sedan correct?

Yeah I don't have anywhere near enough front spring to handle not having a bar, it was completely apparent the tire rubbing on the fender.

I liked the corner exit traction but trail braking felt terrible I would oversteer with to moderate brake application so it kept me from really getting on the brakes late.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:07 PM   #57
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The 22mm bar is from a 07 sedan correct?

Yeah I don't have anywhere near enough front spring to handle not having a bar, it was completely apparent the tire rubbing on the fender.

I liked the corner exit traction but trail braking felt terrible I would oversteer with to moderate brake application so it kept me from really getting on the brakes late.
Sorry, had the numbers mixed up, its a 23mm or 24mm. I can't say with any certainty what year/model came with what bar - some people have reported finding the smaller on a hatch, we did get ours off of a 2007 sedan. Warning, it is a PIA to change.

Just look for the paint dot. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...&postcount=749
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:43 PM   #58
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:40 AM   #59
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Does anyone check the Temp of thier tires (outer, middle, inner) after each run and adjust tire pressures accordingly?

How hot is too hot on a Street tire?

I ask, because I had to do 3 runs back to back last sunday. Noticed my stopping was getting further and further. When I finally was able to stop at grid, I found my front tires were at 190*F. I have never seen them this hot before. They usually hover around 115-125.. Most i have seen was 133, and that was a very corner friendly course.

Also I would like to add that this was across the tire.. I think I dialed my camber, just right.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:15 PM   #60
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Does anyone check the Temp of thier tires (outer, middle, inner) after each run and adjust tire pressures accordingly?

How hot is too hot on a Street tire?

I ask, because I had to do 3 runs back to back last sunday. Noticed my stopping was getting further and further. When I finally was able to stop at grid, I found my front tires were at 190*F. I have never seen them this hot before. They usually hover around 115-125.. Most i have seen was 133, and that was a very corner friendly course.

Also I would like to add that this was across the tire.. I think I dialed my camber, just right.
190* is to hot for an ST tire, even the Hankook, you need to be spraying with water between runs.

You can't get accurate alignment data with temps after a lap, the nature of course, and amount of time driving strait back to grid tosses it out the window. The only way this works is on a skid pad, checking the loaded side, then change directions and repeat.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:16 PM   #61
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I do for surface temps since I don't have a probe. I usually start watering when my surface temps say 130+ and the highest I've seen after a run is ~165. I don't have the ability to read core temps so I can only guess as to how hot it was but as anemically the air coming out of the tire was quite hot.

Are you reading surface data or are you using a probe? As far as I know surface data is useless unless your trying to dial in air pressure and camber.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:22 PM   #62
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Are you reading surface data or are you using a probe? As far as I know surface data is useless unless your trying to dial in air pressure and camber.
We have both types... Typically we find the temp difference to be around 10*, which is not bad. But the real issue is the surface temp (IR) starts to drop as soon as you stop turning, and driving strait back to grid also effects the surface temp readings, while the core (probe) temps will hold long enough to get a decent reading.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:52 PM   #63
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ahh.. good info.. I am using surface temp also.. but you do make good point. I normally spray with water between runs, but I had 3 runs back to back because of red flags on course workers. before my outside of the tire was usually 15* hotter than my inside after each run. but after last event, its been even across the board. But your right, optimal readings are in the actual turn itself.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:24 PM   #64
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Ok, I tried to get a video of my event #5, but my mount I tried from radioshack wasn't worth crap. Almost lost my phone out the window. Glad I didnt try doing it from the outside. I got video of that, I just gotta upload it off my phone.

Well, my 5th event, I came in 6th overall in pax. Was a fast course setup. bounced off the rev limiter a couple times. Alot of wide long turns.

http://buccaneerregion.com/ce-5-12.html

Then, last sunday, Event #6, I came in 1st in overall Pax.. WHAT!!!! I pulled that off in my second run, granted there were not as many people there, but the National guys were there, Stuart and Chuck, including a Mazda3 from Ohio that races every weekend apparently, He was really good, and would have had alot of pride to say he beat everyone in Buccaneer region when he was visiting. Now he can laugh at how a yaris beat him.. lol.

Well, here are the results of that event

http://buccaneerregion.com/ce-6-12.html
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:51 PM   #65
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Are you going to the Lincoln champs?
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Old 07-18-2012, 04:39 AM   #66
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Not this year. I simply can't afford it. I need new tires really bad. Maybe a couple more events left in this set.. Money is really tight right now with planning this wedding in april. Did not realize how expensive it was gonna be. But once this wedding is over with, I will do more attempts at hitting up some national events next year. I really wanna see how I compete against more STF class cars. Also, National event courses are very HP friendly from what video's I have seen. I prob wont do so good against other class's
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:36 AM   #67
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Not this year. I simply can't afford it. I need new tires really bad. Maybe a couple more events left in this set.. Money is really tight right now with planning this wedding in april. Did not realize how expensive it was gonna be. But once this wedding is over with, I will do more attempts at hitting up some national events next year. I really wanna see how I compete against more STF class cars. Also, National event courses are very HP friendly from what video's I have seen. I prob wont do so good against other class's
I here ya its whats keeping me back this year also. I wouldn't say that I know packwood was a miata course and Andy Hollis did quite well in his 2. If I had to guess I would say your probably 2-3 seconds quicker than me which should put you on par with the quick guy in my region and about a 1-1.5s from Andy Hollis time judging by how he performed against people I raced against.
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:32 AM   #68
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i wonder what STF car is dominating? I assume that miata is STS. One day I will try my hand at nationals.. maybe Dixie Tour next year.

I was planning on going to Nebraska, but It's not in the cards for me anymore.
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:44 PM   #69
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I think the Mazda 2 is dominating so far from what I've been seeing but that's also the only car that's really getting development. Oh by Miata course I mean a course that works well for small low powered cars.

I kinda of know which direction I need to take the car for it to be successful but getting a hold of some of the things required has been difficult to say the least.
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:51 PM   #70
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yep. What are your plans? if you don't mind me asking, of course, if you wanna keep it secret, totally understand, hehe
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:17 PM   #71
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Nah i'll spill the beans :) The front springs will be either 400-450 lb/in and no front sway bar and rear springs at 350 lb/in. I could go higher but I think this is about the limit I want for a DD. I'll end up replacing my rear bilsteins with Konis or AST shocks and my bilsteins fronts are going to get revalved.

I've been trying to get dynatronics or pistani tune to give me a quote on getting the ecu flashed so no hassles with wiring but they do flash the ECU so that is at least an option.

I've been speaking to a coworker of mine about getting a long tube header made but also asking other companies about getting a header made for a reasonable price if neither of those two options works out or I decide to hit the easy button I'll likely have buy an off the shelf header.

I've been doing drawings about making a pillowball/camber plate since the upper strut mount from the prius is a close fit for the yaris but will need slight modification and a hole drilled but getting the plate made and the bearing cup welded is pretty simple plus if I could get the strut shaft slightly shorter I could turn it into an actual camber plate. But I may hit the easy button and buy the cusco mount if I want to spend an extra 200 dollars.

I've got a bunch of wire so I can move the battery to the trunk and it only adds something like 2lbs plus it gets rid of that stupid high battery in the front.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:43 AM   #72
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Ooo.. you got alot going on, let me know about that reflash on the ecu and results. Interested in that.

What tires have you gone with, and are you DD those tires or do you have a separete set of rims/wheels as DD? My RS-3 are done. Had them since Aug of last year and with consistant rotating, athey are done. about 2/32" left tread on the front and 1/32 on the rear. no threads showing and not yet completely bald..maybe have 2 events left in them. Thats roughly 10k miles, with autocross at least once a month and one track event about 5 20min sessions that day.

On my next set, I will swap rims/tires a couple days before autocross so I can get the feel of it. No longer DD these 140 treadwear tires, lol.. may just run FSP and get some R-comps
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