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Old 03-25-2017, 02:21 AM   #1
coachzarate
 
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Accessing LCA bolts while lifting engine

Question: When jacking the engine/tranny to access the LCA bolts, can i do this without loosening the bolts for the motor mounts? Or do I need to remove or loosen the motor mounts? If so, all of them? Lower only? 2/3?

Any help is appreciated. Got new LCA's and KYB shocks going in next weekend
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Old 03-25-2017, 06:20 AM   #2
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Definitely remove bolts on the passenger side motor mount. If you don't them the motor will barley move.

Throw a block of wood on the jack and put the jack under the oil pan so it lifts that side of the engine more.

Also when installing the CA's back in the car, install the puck bushing first, then wiggle and push the arm in to get the front bushing in, then attach the ball joint. You can leave the knuckle attatched to the strut, just turn the steering wheel to the opposite side you are working on.

And make sure you torque the CA bolts down with weight on the suspension, you can put the back under the ball joint and lift it enough so that side of the car is just lifting off the back stands
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Old 03-25-2017, 11:48 PM   #3
coachzarate
 
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I appreciate the input. Do you know the size of the motor bolts and torque by chance? I got all the tools and I for for everything else, just debating on whether to buy new lca bolts to be safe with everything I have been reading. Car is 10yeara old and don't know that any work has been done on the suspension
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:20 AM   #4
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The motor mount bolts are 17mm iirc (if not 17 then 14mm). I don't known the torque specs off hand but I use a regular length 1/2" ratchet and tighten it down pretty tight with anti seize on the threads. This has always worked well for me. Some put removable loctitie on the threads.

Unless you live in the coast and get exposed to salt, your lca bolts should be fine. The one of concern is the rear bushing bolt. Cover it in anti seize when you reinstall.

The front bushing bolt in the salt belt has a tendency to seize to the bushing sleeve which makes the lca removal an absolute nightmare and often times damage to the subframe has to happen to remove the bolt.

You should be ok due to where you live, but make sure the threads and bolt shaft are covered in anti seize before you reinstall.

You non salt belt mechanics have no idea how good you have it until you wrench a non oil sprayed car from the salt belt. Can make any easy job become a whole weekend diatribe for the shade tree mechanic.

Once you have the castle nut off of the ball joint you'll need a bfh or even better a ball joint separator tool. In your case a pickle fork is fine because when you damage the bolt it won't matter since you're installing new lca's. But if you have the proper ball joint separator that looks like 2 fingers it won't damage the boot and it will fit in the yaris' lca with the cv axle still in the knuckle. Your other option is to take a bfh and hit the part of the knuckle that that ball joint goes through. It will eventually drop down, it just take longer and a lot of pb blaster.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:54 AM   #5
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Thanks for the help. I'll buy some locktite. The new arms I got off eBay don't have a crown nut but rather a rubber lock but. Will definitely use some there as well.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:32 AM   #6
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Any Tips to put the new lca on the passenger side back in? Crown screw will not line up. I read that the cv may be pushing it out? Drivers side was a breeze. Thinking of maybe disconnecting the strut and working backwards. Any help is appreciated
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:16 AM   #7
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The following should help and has always worked for me:

- Turn the steering wheel all the way opposite to the side you are working on to give you more room to work on the lca.

- once the lca is mounted in its bushings and the bolts are loosely tightened, use your hand to force down the lca and push the ball joint bolt into the knuckle slot. You won't get it seated all the way but just get in the slot.

-then turn the steering wheel back to the middle position. You'll here a noise from the lca, when you go back to the knuckle you'll see the ball joint inserted into the slot fully.

-now put the castle nut on it and tighten it down with a spanner. Then insert the cotter pin.

- use a jack under the ball joint part of the knuckle to compress the suspension and lift that side of the car a cm or so off the jack stand. Now torque down the 2 lca bushing bolts
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:26 AM   #8
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Your help was invaluable! Turned the wheel opposite the side I was working on and the ball joint dropped right in. Sad part was I dropped the engine to jack up and tighten the lca and stripped the threads of the lock but I Was given with the new eBay arm. Had to get a new ball joint and replace it on the new arm. Pops showed me how to use a bfh and grease. Learned a lot and saved a bunch on money that was used on other parts like new struts/shocks and tools. 10 years old 170k and still going strong. With a baby on the way it is a lot cheaper option than a new car. I want to do a write up when I get some time.
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