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Old 08-03-2007, 11:10 PM   #19
churp
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i do a throttal body service EVERY 15 k on all my vehicles due to carbon buildup mostly because of the crappy gas now days, carbon is a byproduct of the combustion engine their is nothing u can do to prevent it and .....
Maybe a stupid question but.....I thought only incoming air goes thru the throttle body or MAF sensor???? Not sure where the engine bypass vent tube goes (think it's downstream of the TB and MAF also) but the oil trap DIY would stop most of that. So aren't we really talking of the crap buildup from what gets thru the air filter....so cleaning is rare necessity with proper air filter replacement????

Edit: Hate to say it but having an oiled K&N filter would possibly add contaminates!
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Old 08-05-2007, 06:47 PM   #20
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only incoming air goes through ur maf but incoming air and recirculated air goes through ur tb. the pcv system (positive crankcase ventilation) recirculates blowby gas's, the gas's that pass the piston rings on all cars with a combustion engine witch contain carbon then are recirculated through the crankcase, eventually to the valve cover then are dumped back into the intake boot befor the throttal body and in turn clogs the tb. Have u ever wonderd why ur oil turns black well that is the main reason.

i dont see no reason y a oil catch can would stop particulant matter from passing through to the intake unless it has a dense filtering material in it?

a airfilter does not catch all particulant matter it only filters down to so many microns then anything smaller goes right through the af so y couldn't the maf get dirty and knowing that a maf sensor is a variable resistance type of sensor if their was dirt or anything els on the maf could that not change ur resistance value and cause the maf the read incorectly.
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Old 08-05-2007, 08:00 PM   #21
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welcome to the world of auto maintanence...every place you go will reccomend fluid flushes/replacements, filter changes, and fuel injection or carberator cleaning services.

go down to autozone, shucks, napa,ect and buy a air filter...there is your air filter service.

next, dont do the fuel injection or throttle body cleaning s--t unless you have been running s--t gas and your car is running poorly. fuel injection cleanings cause more problems than they fix half the time. the addatives they put in the gas can break debris loose and lodge them in a injector, and the injection flushes normally burn out cataletic converters...they are bad news.

every deal, private mechanic, oil change place, ect, will try to take you for every cent you have. I know, i have worked for quicklubes and dealerships and private companies for about 7 years now...they are all the same...at least the service writers/salesman/owners/managers/whoever is telling you what your car needs.

you have to find someone you trust, and even then you have to be carefull.

P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware.

change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in.
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Old 08-05-2007, 09:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyota Technician View Post
only incoming air goes through ur maf but incoming air and recirculated air goes through ur tb. the pcv system (positive crankcase ventilation) recirculates blowby gas's, the gas's that pass the piston rings on all cars with a combustion engine witch contain carbon then are recirculated through the crankcase, eventually to the valve cover then are dumped back into the intake boot befor the throttal body and in turn clogs the tb. Have u ever wonderd why ur oil turns black well that is the main reason.

i dont see no reason y a oil catch can would stop particulant matter from passing through to the intake unless it has a dense filtering material in it?

a airfilter does not catch all particulant matter it only filters down to so many microns then anything smaller goes right through the af so y couldn't the maf get dirty and knowing that a maf sensor is a variable resistance type of sensor if their was dirt or anything els on the maf could that not change ur resistance value and cause the maf the read incorectly.

The blowby gasses are carbon rich true...but mainly oil picked up by the hot gasses as they go thru the oil coated rings or thru the valve seals. One of the posts on the oil catch can stated a sizable quantity of oil collected in 500miles!

Oil was the main air filtering agent for the 1st half century of the automobile (until the mid 50's) along with a metal screen that kept the bugs and rocks out of the carburator....not nearly as effective as todays filters, but they worked.

Basically I'm just stating that an oil catch can and the largest area, smallest micron filter you can use could "reduce" the need to clean the MAF or TB. I've driven cars with well over 200K on them that ran fine and never had them cleaned...preventive maintenence is key.
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:29 PM   #23
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Sea Foam Is The Answer

At 30K go to Advance auto or other part store, buy a red and white metal can of seafoam fuel system cleaner. Pour 1/4 cup of it into a shallow dish and suck it up a little at a time through your brake booster hose or other vacuum hose through the throttle body. Cut the car off. Wait 15 minutes and start the car and white out the whole neighborhood with a now very clean throttle body. Pour the rest in the tank.

Pour a whole can in your tank every oil change.
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Old 08-17-2007, 09:20 PM   #24
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P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware.

change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in.[/QUOTE]


your right dirt will not magicaly get through your a/f,particulant matter WILL pass through ur a/f ,ANY a/f will have some particulant matter pass through af's only filter down so far just like oil filters, c'mon u guys dont really think that a a/f that filters down to 10-15 microns is going to catch particulant matter that is 5 microns (same for oil filters). if u can go 30k befor u change
ur af u must be in some clean air,here where i live if u get 10-12 k ur lucky so alot of this has to do with where u live.

also i wouldnt always go by ur manual, the yaris surrpost to be 100k coolent well i have tested coolent at 50-60 k and only have 0 degree protection it is a must to have at lest -32 degree protection WHERE I LIVE everywhere will be different.

good quality throttal body cleaner(bg) will not harm ur catalist in any way.

NOT all dealers are their to take every cent u have if i sell something at work i can walk u to ur car and directly show y u need this and the conditions this will cause etc.

and since were throwing out numbers how about ase certified, toyota certified, ford certified, nashville auto deisel college grad-associates degree and numerous other certifications in auto and deisel (actually over 100)

so i know what i am talking about
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Old 08-18-2007, 09:44 PM   #25
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......NOT all dealers are their to take every cent u have if i sell something at work i can walk u to ur car and directly show y u need this and the conditions this will cause etc......
I agree, but.....IMO they follow the book because they're liable if they don't. I change my oil every 5,000 or less, change af before it's dirty, check antifreeze every fall, keep track of every drop of gas (to insure gas mileage doesn't change drastically), etc. I don't clean the TB or rotate tires unless I see or feel a problem...and then I would do it myself, paying someone to do it on a regular schedule (if it aint broke....), to me is not cost effective. Try to tell a manufacturer that his syn oil or extended life antifreeze claims are bogus.
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:15 PM   #26
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...I change my oil every 5,000 or less, change af before it's dirty...
It is foolish to judge oil based on it's dirty color. A good detergent oil is supposed to show dirtiness faster because a good oil keeps the dirt OFF the parts, and in suspension in the oil, and for this reason it looks dirty faster.

Dirty oil means that dirt is not on the internal engine parts.

Better to judge when to change the oil based on milage on the oil, time too if you don't drive so much....also driving conditions, for example if you take a lot of very short trips, change the oil more frequent.
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:13 PM   #27
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It is foolish to judge oil based on it's dirty color. A good detergent oil is supposed to show dirtiness faster because a good oil keeps the dirt OFF the parts, and in suspension in the oil, and for this reason it looks dirty faster.

Dirty oil means that dirt is not on the internal engine parts.

Better to judge when to change the oil based on milage on the oil, time too if you don't drive so much....also driving conditions, for example if you take a lot of very short trips, change the oil more frequent.
I agree with you Pavel...looks aren't a good judge of oil. I change every 5k because I'm looking for this car to reach retirement (I'll have at least 150k on then, 5 to 6 years), and I won't judge people wrong for going 15k between oil changes. I just don't think the Throttle body requires regular service (just like carburators didn't) until the performance shows it's needed. I've driven too many FI cars for 200k without the TB causing any problems.
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Old 08-21-2007, 01:45 PM   #28
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I agree with you Pavel...looks aren't a good judge of oil. I change every 5k because I'm looking for this car to reach retirement (I'll have at least 150k on then, 5 to 6 years), and I won't judge people wrong for going 15k between oil changes. I just don't think the Throttle body requires regular service (just like carburators didn't) until the performance shows it's needed. I've driven too many FI cars for 200k without the TB causing any problems.
Agreed...to service the throttle body at 15k seems scamish to me, unless the technician can show proof that the service is required, and since it is not even in the scheduled maintenence record, it should be covered free under warranty by Toyota.....only a fool would pay for that service, and so bloody soon in the life of the car.
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:17 AM   #29
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Just took the car for the 32K service at the dealer yesterday, they checked the brake and said they have to lube it as it is dry?? Comes to $106 for front and rear brakes, on top of the $105 32K service... asked the service advisor why need to work on the brakes, as it is only 32K, he said it needs to be done on all the Yaris. Is this true? But after the service, the E brake is much tighter, as before, I need to pull it all the way up to secure the car, but now, I only need to go about half way.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:21 AM   #30
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I have yet to hit 30000 miles, but will probably be there in a month.

When I was at my dealership yesterday getting a part replaced under warranty (side light) the service rep reminded me that my 30k service was coming up. Didnt mention a throttle body cleaning, but did tell me it would involve flushing my coolant, transmission gear oil, and change my oil. All for the low low price of $542.00. Considering I can do both of those on my own for a tenth of the cost, I just nodded my head so I could get my car and leave.

Continuing my rant on service reps, the part I had to replace yesterday was the side blinker on the quarter panel. The plastic clip had busted and they had ordered the part to replace it. So I go in the manager does a write up and tells me he has to have it taken into the garage and have a technician do a replacement. Basically unclip the busted light and clip in the new one. 1 to 2 minute job at best. 45 minutes later I was finally getting my car. So when he goes off and tells me about this $542 tune up that I needed you can get the idea that I didnt care.

One other thing, doest our MAINT REQUIRED light go off every 5,000 miles. If I remember correctly that is what it is set at. When I go to my local dealership, their big service required board lists the service requirements of having the oil changed every 3k miles. So even though the car and Toyota would have us change our oil at 5k the dealership wants 3k. Again another example of dealerships trying to scam uneducated people out of money.

Sorry for the off topic rant, just needed to vent.
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:27 PM   #31
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You know, you guys with higher mileage Yarii should be doing some self service DIY's so the rest of us know what we have to do to save hundreds by skipping Toyota service departments.
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Old 08-30-2007, 10:23 PM   #32
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I plan on doing a DIY on a manual transmission gear fluid change as soon as my Redline mt90 shows up. Other than that let me know what type of stuff you want and when I change it out I will make sure to take pics and all.
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Old 08-30-2007, 10:26 PM   #33
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Tranny fluid, brake fluid... anything! I've never done any of this stuff, but bet your ass I'll be trying it for the first time on the hatch.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:00 PM   #34
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I am the same way, never done it before, but I plan on doing everything on my own. Having this site provide the factory manual helps out tremendously.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:46 PM   #35
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we can do your trans next time you are out this way Chino, I have everything here... plus you can buy Redline, Royal Purple or Amsoil with in 2 miles of my house :)

I do have a question, since we have a hydrolic clutch, I asume it has fluid as well, anyone know how to change that? I would like to swap that over to synthetic as well to see if there is a change
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Old 09-08-2007, 11:42 AM   #36
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I just Seafoamed my wife's car - it's really great stuff. 6 or 7 ounces in the throttle body (use vacuum line to PCV valve to suck it out or the can or out of a cup), one ounce per gallon in fuel, and about 1/3 - 1/2 can in oil about 20 or 30 miles just before an oil change. Don't know if it is necessary at 30000 miles but some people do it alot more often than that. I plan on Seafoaming every vehicle I own at at least 60000 miles. Seafoam comes in 16 oz. cans at most auto parts stores. Caution: after doing the throttle body, wait about 10 minutes then restart the car - you'll get lots of white smoke but if you drive the car 10 or so miles (running the RPM's up to about 4000 it will quickly burn off).
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