oil

[Black Yaris]

Originally Posted by hystria

I know I'm wrong that's what I'm using right now, the Mobil 1 Extended Performance + K&N filter, it has 2000 miles and the oil got quite dark, now tell me If a real synthetic would do so, anyway, it's the last time I'm using a pseudo synthetic. if one needs to spend more money at least buy real synthetics, i.e. Motul, Red Line or Amsoil

well I change my oil every 5000 miles I have used mobile one 5-30 full synth and amsoil 5-20 full synth and now currently running 0-20 mobile one full syth, and after every oil change oil has still look a good golden color, I have always used Champ brand filters except this last time I gave fram a try

[Pavel Olavich]

Originally Posted by hystria

I know I'm wrong that's what I'm using right now, the Mobil 1 Extended Performance + K&N filter, it has 2000 miles and the oil got quite dark, now tell me If a real synthetic would do so, anyway, it's the last time I'm using a pseudo synthetic. if one needs to spend more money at least buy real synthetics, i.e. Motul, Red Line or Amsoil

So it got dark....now you're a chemist

So what...it got dark...this does not mean it is not working as expected.

Relax and stay with it through 10,000 miles....you'll be ok and so will your engine.

Why do you call it "pseudo"? It's the real deal, and like mineral oil, it too will change color with use...this is okay!!

[Pavel Olavich]

Originally Posted by Black Yaris

well I change my oil every 5000 miles I have used mobile one 5-30 full synth and amsoil 5-20 full synth and now currently running 0-20 mobile one full syth, and after every oil change oil has still look a good golden color, I have always used Champ brand filters except this last time I gave fram a try

Going against the Toyota manual means your 0-20 oil could screw up your engine...why are you doing this?????

And chaning the Synthetic oil every 5,000 miles seems very foolish, and wasteful of your $$, and misses the entire point of using synthetic.

Don't buy this dillusion of thinking that just because the oil color changes, that it needs to be replace...this is based on dillusion void of facts, friend.

Save your $$....do it every 7,500 or 10,000 miles, and use the correct viscosity as dictated by the owners manual.

[Black Yaris]

Originally Posted by Pavel Olavich

Going against the Toyota manual means your 0-20 oil could screw up your engine...why are you doing this?????

And chaning the Synthetic oil every 5,000 miles seems very foolish, and wasteful of your $$, and misses the entire point of using synthetic.

Don't buy this dillusion of thinking that just because the oil color changes, that it needs to be replace...this is based on dillusion void of facts, friend.

Save your $$....do it every 7,500 or 10,000 miles, and use the correct viscosity as dictated by the owners manual.

Hey guy there is a Toyota TSB to increase gas mileage for the 1NZ motor use 5-20 or 0-20 synthetic oil
and god forbid somthing were to happen to this engine I do need a proof the oil was changed every 5000 miles synthectic or not, so untill the warranty is up 5000 miles it is, after that I will go more than that...

[hystria]

Originally Posted by Black Yaris

well I change my oil every 5000 miles I have used mobile one 5-30 full synth and amsoil 5-20 full synth and now currently running 0-20 mobile one full syth, and after every oil change oil has still look a good golden color, I have always used Champ brand filters except this last time I gave fram a try

that's interesting to know, do you run on 89 or higher gasoline ?

[Pavel Olavich]

Originally Posted by hystria

that's interesting to know, do you run on 89 or higher gasoline ?

Running octane higher then 87 is just wasting money, and doing this actually makes the car run UNDER powered, as the combustion is RETARDED...for most power, use octane 87, as the Toyota manual dictates....save your money....more octane means LESS POWER...especially for very small engines having low compression....

[nsmitchell]

I only use REAL OIL! None of that "synthetic voodoo snake oil".

[Spades]

meh, I am a broke little bastige, so I use Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5w30, and STP filters.

Royal Purple,Mobile 1,Amsoil, and others are much better, but they also cost double or more per quart than the valvoline does.

After some research, I had decided on the last 3 cars I have owned to use semi-synthetic, as there are pro's and cons to using full sythetic or just regular oil. So, after much debating I settled on a blend.

EDIT: on the thread jacking question of octane, all octane rating really does is determine at what point predetionation occurs. If you are running a engine with high compression or forced induction high octane fuel is a good idea, but on a gas miser car that was designed to run on pisswater gas, you won't notice any performance differance.

[Galavoxx]

I agree with Pavel that running higher octane will waste money but no need to get worked up. I have to say though, the Yaris has pretty decent compression for an econocar. If the damn thing would only rev higher!!

I use Redline Full Syn 5-30 with a Mobil 1 or K&N high flow filter. These two filters are made by the same manufacturer and are good quality. And Redline is just the biz.

[Spades]

Yeah, mobil 1 filters rock(can't afford them since I change my oil every 1,500-2,500 miles).

[/Threadjack]

As far as rev'ing higher...how high do you need? I mean, jeebus, I power shift at 6300RPM's to get a nice 1 to 2 chirp...seriously...why would you want it to have a higher redline? 6k+ for hp range is plenty high enough...

The cars top speed is governed, so it wouldn't go any faster. I could care less if the car made its peak power and you shifted at 3k RPM's as long as I had enough gearing to go 100mph(for the occasional 1/4 mile run,if the car was actually faster),lol.

Now, more low end torque, that is what the car really needs!

[/Threadjack]

[Galavoxx]

Originally Posted by Spades

Yeah, mobil 1 filters rock(can't afford them since I change my oil every 1,500-2,500 miles).

[/Threadjack]

As far as rev'ing higher...how high do you need? I mean, jeebus, I power shift at 6300RPM's to get a nice 1 to 2 chirp...seriously...why would you want it to have a higher redline? 6k+ for hp range is plenty high enough...

The cars top speed is governed, so it wouldn't go any faster. I could care less if the car made its peak power and you shifted at 3k RPM's as long as I had enough gearing to go 100mph(for the occasional 1/4 mile run,if the car was actually faster),lol.

Now, more low end torque, that is what the car really needs!

[/Threadjack]

More low-end would be good too, of course. As far as redline goes, higher revs usually equal higher hp numbers on top. I'm just dreaming of one more thing that would make a nice hi-po Yaris motor: turrrbo, pretttty forrrged things, lightened things, head-job, fuel management... etc., etc. Higher revs are always fun but not always practical.

[Spades]

[/threadjack]

Higher RPM's do not more HP numbers make...just because riceboy in his built b18 integra makes his peak HP at 9k RPM's does not mean a yaris will.

In the performance section a turbo kit for the yaris is being tested as we speak...and if I remember correctly they are around 180hp without building the bottom end to make the engine rev higher. High RPM's mean more to go wrong...rods through the block are a example that comes to mind.

It will be very hard to use a stand alone engine management system to control the motor at high RPM's, because the yaris' throttlebody is electronic...much more difficult to get a EMU that will work with it.

Fuel modifications, bigger valves & cams, and boost however, these are things we both agree on!

[/threadjack]


Anyone wish to start the time honored debate of Synthetic VS Synthetic Blend?

[Black Yaris]

Originally Posted by hystria

that's interesting to know, do you run on 89 or higher gasoline ?

yes I run shell 89 oct at min

[Galavoxx]

Originally Posted by Spades

[/threadjack]

Higher RPM's do not more HP numbers make...just because riceboy in his built b18 integra makes his peak HP at 9k RPM's does not mean a yaris will.

In the performance section a turbo kit for the yaris is being tested as we speak...and if I remember correctly they are around 180hp without building the bottom end to make the engine rev higher. High RPM's mean more to go wrong...rods through the block are a example that comes to mind.

It will be very hard to use a stand alone engine management system to control the motor at high RPM's, because the yaris' throttlebody is electronic...much more difficult to get a EMU that will work with it.

Fuel modifications, bigger valves & cams, and boost however, these are things we both agree on!

[/threadjack]


Anyone wish to start the time honored debate of Synthetic VS Synthetic Blend?

I'll avoid the oil debate but still disagree on the RPMs. 9000rpms is nothing for a 1.5L engine, if built properly. A 1.5L should be able to do 12k with no issues. But why spend the money. Engine management is a huge issue, of course. 180hp on a stock bottom with a 6500 rpm redline does make all the fuss of getting into anything else seem almost pointless.

and for that matter....... Synthetic oil rocks!!!

I couldn't help myself.

[Spades]

Originally Posted by Black Yaris

yes I run shell 89 oct at min

[/threadjack] (again)

High octane rating only determines at what point the fuel will combust. A high octane fuel is to prevent a thing called "Predetonation" from occurring.
Predetonation is not a term you ussually hear in parking lots full of kids showing off their cars, ussually it is used at the dragstrip listening to guys talk about their 400+HP 4cyl boosted cars.

Predetonation is what happens when due to pressure in the combustion chamber the fuel ignites prematurely before the spark plug triggers. This is a very bad thing, because if the number 1 cyl predetonates, it goes against the crankshaft being turned by the pistons that are firing in the correct order with their spark plugs.

The force inside a cylinder chamber becomes increasingly higher when you try to force 20 PSI of boost into it. When the piston goes on what is called the compression stroke(the stroke where it mashes the mixture of air and gasoline together in preporation to be ignited) the pressure can sometimes be enough to cause the mixture to explode.

High octane rated fuel is used to prevent the gasoline and air mixture from blowing up before it is supposed to. The only benifit to using high octane fuel on a car that was designed for 87 octane piss water is that it sometimes burns cleaner because some gas stations may put more adatives in it and sometimes it is a slightly better grade of fuel.

If you ever get boosted or change the compression to something radical(say 14 to 1) then look into 89 octane, untill then, feel free to waste your cash on the gas that costs 30 cents more a gallon.

[BailOut]

Originally Posted by Pavel Olavich

...it says right on the label "15,000 Miles".

It sure does, and K&N says their oil filter can go with that, so that's exactly what I'm doing for both our vehicles.

I plan to change the oil right around the time we re-register the cars annually.

[Black Yaris]

Originally Posted by Spades

[/threadjack] (again)

High octane rating only determines at what point the fuel will combust. A high octane fuel is to prevent a thing called "Predetonation" from occurring.
Predetonation is not a term you ussually hear in parking lots full of kids showing off their cars, ussually it is used at the dragstrip listening to guys talk about their 400+HP 4cyl boosted cars.

Predetonation is what happens when due to pressure in the combustion chamber the fuel ignites prematurely before the spark plug triggers. This is a very bad thing, because if the number 1 cyl predetonates, it goes against the crankshaft being turned by the pistons that are firing in the correct order with their spark plugs.

The force inside a cylinder chamber becomes increasingly higher when you try to force 20 PSI of boost into it. When the piston goes on what is called the compression stroke(the stroke where it mashes the mixture of air and gasoline together in preporation to be ignited) the pressure can sometimes be enough to cause the mixture to explode.

High octane rated fuel is used to prevent the gasoline and air mixture from blowing up before it is supposed to. The only benifit to using high octane fuel on a car that was designed for 87 octane piss water is that it sometimes burns cleaner because some gas stations may put more adatives in it and sometimes it is a slightly better grade of fuel.

If you ever get boosted or change the compression to something radical(say 14 to 1) then look into 89 octane, untill then, feel free to waste your cash on the gas that costs 30 cents more a gallon.

we had this debate a long time ago... just do a thread search to see what realy happens... our car CAN tell the difference between octanes and does get better gas miles with higher octane

[Galavoxx]

Originally Posted by Black Yaris

we had this debate a long time ago... just do a thread search to see what realy happens... our car CAN tell the difference between octanes and does get better gas miles with higher octane

...even if it runs better and gets better mileage, use of a higher octane that your car does not need can lead to carbon build up in the combustion chamber. This is especially true over the life of the engine. What may run good now, may have some issues after 100k miles. You want to make sure the fuel in the combustion chamber burns off quickly and completely. Without the added compression to assist in the process, 87 octane burns hotter and faster than 91. So your car may run better on 91 and get better gas miles now but this doesn't mean it will be better over the life of the engine. Just my 2 cents.