Plastic dip hood?

[CT_CJ]

Hey guys,
Since it worked out well before, I figured I'd ask here.
I am considering plastic dipping my hood. My paint is absolutely red, and chops from this last winter make it look speckled. I washed and waxed it every two weeks but at this point my hood is 2/3 red and 1/3 white.
Since I don't have a sprayer or any equipment I'm stuck with rattle can. Calling local body shops yields quotes in the 300-500 dollar range (before materials and tax)which seems excessive for such a small hood.

In leiu of buying paint in cans that will probably look like garbage/chip all over again, I was thinking plast dip, but a couple questions...

When it's time to remove, will it pull even more paint with it?

Anyone know offhand how close it is to 3po red (probably just buy a can and see myself)

How resistant have you guys found it? How well does it hold up at the car wash/to waxing. I wash/wax a every other week and try to use carnuba wax once a month.

Will gloss plastic dip or glossifier give a decent finish?

Thanks!

[oxide]

Gloss officer might do the trick and maybe a clear bra to top it off as well
I plan on reprinting a couple parts in spring and hood will be one of them for sure

[sarap]

If u do it, make sure you add significant amount of coats, the more coats the easier it peels off. We used to have customers bring in plasti dip cars, with very thin coats, making removal for body work a really big hassle. They now sell a gloss that can be applied over the initial plasti dip coats, it won't match of course considering how hard red is to match as it is, but yeah main key is to make sure you've layered on really good coverage and a lot of coats to help you when you want to remove it later on. I wouldn't really try and wax it, just clean it gently with soapy water and a nice sponge, Hope that helps

[tmontague]

IMO, the glossifier will not make it look nearly as glossy as regular paint. This is based off experience using platidip. As stated above don't try and wax platidip just wash it and layer it on thick to make removal easier.

It isn't probably the most durable thing for hood protection and I don't think it will hold up as well as you think. The best solution would be to either paint it yourself, or pay extra and get a shop to paint it. Then install a clear vinyl like 3M Rock guard and replace that every couple years.

Just my $0.02

[sarap]

On a side note, there is a new clear that is out for dips, it does anything and everything paint would do except for the fact that it's all removable, couple of high end dip shops here in Houston offer it, it's crazy because they did a gloss test and compared clear coats of a Porsche, bmw, and their product on the shop skyline, and the gloss put out a 94% gloss average over the factory "high end" OEM paints. It's even sand-able and buff-able ! Out of curiosity I got a price quote -____- 3200 !

Check them out on IG @hellawetdips @pearlsandpigments pretty neat stuff

[sarap]

Sorry to go off topic, but here's a pic of it in action !
I'm in no way affiliated with them, or trying to purposely promote the shop, just the product haha

[oxide]

ooo hella wet

[CT_CJ]

Thanks for all the input. If I can't find a shop cheaper here I did find a brand new painted hood for a little less than the quotes I have.
That's awesome sarap. Too bad there aren't any dip shops here. Eastern Connecticut is a vacuous hole lol.

[justjesus]

Other options:
- Find another red hood, and see if it's in better shape
- Dr. Colorchip to fill in the chips yourself. The kits range from like 29-69, or so.

QUESTIONS:
- why do you wax every two weeks?
-- what wax do you use for this?

- why do you wax with carnauba once a month?
-- hehe, what wax do you use for this?

edit: forgot to mention. I've seen videos on youtube showing plastidip taking some "abuse" in various ways, including off roading in a 4x4. Other videos showing it being pressure washed at a local coin-op

[CT_CJ]

I live in the rust belt area of the US and they use a ton of sand and salt. And a huge portion of vehicles in my area are large trucks that kick up alot of debris.
I tend to use Maguire's gold carnuba wax.
My previous car was an 88 mustang and washing/waxing like that kept the paint looking awesome, especially pushing 30 years old.
I thought about doctorchip or duplicolor, but I never have good results with rattle can paint, and with no garage I would end up with specks/debris in it.

[tmontague]

If you're using wax primarily for protection and less about getting a "warm glow" then switch to synthetic wax aka paint sealer. Last long and is much more durable. I switched this past year and have been happy I did.

[CT_CJ]

Thanks. Honestly never heard of that before. I'll definitely try it.

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by tmontague

If you're using wax primarily for protection and less about getting a "warm glow" then switch to synthetic wax aka paint sealer. Last long and is much more durable. I switched this past year and have been happy I did.

tmontague,

This is an older post, but I am looking for solutions to protect the paint on my roof and a few other smaller horizontal areas where the clear coat is peeling. The color of my car is "Bayou Blue." Can you elaborate more about synthetic wax, why do you say AKA paint sealer? Is it chemically the same as or similar to paint sealer?

Do you think it would do well protecting the paint and underlying body on horizontal areas where the clear coat is peeling?

Any comments from you or others will be appreciated.

Thanks,

R.

[tmontague]

Synthetic wax just tends to last longer and be more durable, it just lacks that warm glow you get with carnuba wax.

I now use ceramic coating as it lasts even longer and is much more durable than any wax. The prep takes longer but it is well worth it.

I am not sure if it will help on already peeling clear coat, but it will definitely help protect the clear coat that is still intact

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by RMcG

tmontague,

This is an older post, but I am looking for solutions to protect the paint on my roof and a few other smaller horizontal areas where the clear coat is peeling. The color of my car is "Bayou Blue." Can you elaborate more about synthetic wax, why do you say AKA paint sealer? Is it chemically the same as or similar to paint sealer?

Do you think it would do well protecting the paint and underlying body on horizontal areas where the clear coat is peeling?

Any comments from you or others will be appreciated.

Thanks,

R.

I don't think that any wipe-on product is going to help with your issue. Doing decent repairs isn't that difficult. With spray bombs for your base coat and a catalyzed 2K clear coat like SprayMax a decent job can be achieved. You can feather the repair area into the panel, then clear the entire panel. I'll link you to some repairs I did before I decided to build a booth and paint my whole car. I did these repairs outside and it turned out pretty good. I did get a wee bit of stuff in the clear, but much of it will wetsand and polish out.

Here is a spray bomb of paint:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota-...-/252897489304

Touchups on my Yaris. The blending and clear coat starts at post #36:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...t=59471&page=2

Booth building and full repaint:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ht=spray+booth

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Synthetic wax just tends to last longer and be more durable, it just lacks that warm glow you get with carnuba wax.

I now use ceramic coating as it lasts even longer and is much more durable than any wax. The prep takes longer but it is well worth it.

I am not sure if it will help on already peeling clear coat, but it will definitely help protect the clear coat that is still intact

Thanks tmontague,

Do you think that ceramic coating (or synthetic wax) will protect underlying paint even if the clear coat has peeled off? Is there a particular brand of ceramic coating (or synthetic wax) that you (or others) prefer? (Some ceramic coatings are pretty expensive.)

My time is limited, so I may use ceramic coating or some other wipe on product for the time being, (like, e.g., a highly rated Consumer Reports wax like Nu-Finish or Meguiar's, the CR rating hopefully includes synthetic waxes) and then look into spray bombs for the base coat and a catalyzed 2K clear coat as recommended by 06YarisRS below for later.

R.

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

I don't think that any wipe-on product is going to help with your issue. Doing decent repairs isn't that difficult. With spray bombs for your base coat and a catalyzed 2K clear coat like SprayMax a decent job can be achieved. You can feather the repair area into the panel, then clear the entire panel. I'll link you to some repairs I did before I decided to build a booth and paint my whole car. I did these repairs outside and it turned out pretty good. I did get a wee bit of stuff in the clear, but much of it will wetsand and polish out.

Here is a spray bomb of paint:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota-...-/252897489304

Touchups on my Yaris. The blending and clear coat starts at post #36:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...t=59471&page=2

Booth building and full repaint:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ht=spray+booth

Thanks 06YarisRS,

Your links look quite interesting and the products do not look pricey. It looks like you did a panel outside, so that is of interest to me, since I do not have a garage. What kind of prep of the old peeling clear coat & paint is needed before putting on the base coat? The actual color of my Yaris is BAYOU BLUE/FB18. Is that color available in a spray bomb?

(I think the spray bomb link in your post is to a slightly different color than mine.)

Thanks,

R.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by RMcG

Thanks 06YarisRS,

Your links look quite interesting and the products do not look pricey. It looks like you did a panel outside, so that is of interest to me, since I do not have a garage. What kind of prep of the old peeling clear coat & paint is needed before putting on the base coat? The actual color of my Yaris is BAYOU BLUE/FB18. Is that color available in a spray bomb?

(I think the spray bomb link in your post is to a slightly different color than mine.)

Thanks,

R.

I would sand all of the peeling clearcoat away and a good inch or two into the good clearcoat. I would also apply a high build primer before the base coat. You'll want to sand with an absolute minimum of 400 - preferably 600 - before spraying the base coat. I would not use anything finer as you are looking for a good mechanical bond. No sanding of the base coat before clear coat and I would apply 3 - 4 coats of base (the first two should literally be dustings as this will help eliminate any adverse reactions between your primer and base) a few minutes apart and within 20 minutes, at least 3 coats of clear, maybe 10 minutes apart, depending on heat and humidity conditions at the time. Oh, an although I'm not a religious type, "cleanliness is next to godliness". Invest in some tack cloths to use between your primer and base, and base and clear. Degrease and tackcloth after sanding primer and tackcloth only between base and clear

What would be most beneficial is if you took pics of all sections concerned and posted them here. That would give a much better idea of approach. I also have some tips that I will share with you if you do this; one of which is laying the metallic base coat in a uniform way with an orientation coat. Metallics look really bad if the flakes aren't evenly dispersed and uniformily oriented. It just too easy to get tiger stripes and blotches that become abundantly apparent, especially in the sunshine.

I could not find any reference to FB18, only Bayou Blue Metallic (8T1).