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Old 10-10-2018, 04:08 PM   #37
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Nigeria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebarber View Post
have you tried a new rad cap? you could be sucking in air if the rad cap no longer seals properly.
Yes I have done that.
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:35 PM   #38
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
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My fan normally kicks off at 96C, is it possible to reduce that to say 86C? Perhaps having the fan blow earlier will reduce the impact until when I get to replace the engine. How do I get the temperature trigger point reduced?

Last edited by ojeysky; Today at 12:22 AM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:30 PM   #39
ojeysky
 
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Bump....! Anyone with an idea on this?
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:06 AM   #40
B.B._07
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojeysky View Post
Bump....! Anyone with an idea on this?
The cooling fan is on a 2 speed circuit with the ECT sensor connected to the ECU which determines at which preset coolant temp the fan will engage at low or high speed. You can't modify the coolant temp values at which the ECU will turn the fan on at high or low. The only way you could change when the fan turns on would be to bypass the ECU control and install an aftermarket adjustable fan controller with a temperature probe. Hayden Automotive and Derale are two companies that make adjustable fan controllers.

https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...fan+controller

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-16759-...fan+controller

Installation and availability in Nigeria might be a challenge.

Last edited by B.B._07; 10-12-2018 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:16 AM   #41
ojeysky
 
Drives: Sedan Yaris 2010
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Thanks a lot for your response, you are right it might be difficult to get this in my country, but I will look around. I had thought one could adjust the temp from 96C to something lower easily.

Meanwhile I may need to check if my fan is indeed running at the low or high speed, at what temperature level are both triggered?

Thanks

Last edited by ojeysky; Today at 12:21 AM.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:39 PM   #42
ArmstrongRacing
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Normally if you get all of the air out of the system with the funnel or running the engine with the cap on for a few minutes, let it cool down, then top off.....and you also replace the caps, the issue should be corrected.

However if there was sealer clogging the radiator it’s possible the head gasket passages and/or the heater core has some restriction now as well.

All of us with 1.8 swaps have never had overheat issues while racing or otherwise. My car doesn’t even have a heater anymore and still has the original radiator, and it’s never been above 210.
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