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Old 08-28-2018, 11:58 AM   #19
ojeysky
 
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Attached is my scanner log, you will notice that my ambient temperature is 81C, while I could not get up to 100miles/HR on this drive, you will notice that my temperature did hit 98C even with the short trip.
Could the ambient temp be an indication of a problem?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf My BlueDriver Data Logs.pdf (161.5 KB, 12 views)
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:06 PM   #20
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100mph is 160km/h and iirc would put the rpm fairly higher than 4k. Like I mentioned earlier depending on ambient temps this potentially could be normal. Descending puts virtually no load on an engine so it would make sense that temps come down
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:15 PM   #21
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Even without getting above 4000rpm, staying within 120km/hr my temperature still get beyond 95C(look at the log I shared) and that doesn't seem normal. I also don't think my ambient temperature is normal as it reads 81C even though following a related thread [1] it seem my ambient temp sensor is not connected.
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1. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31176
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:22 PM   #22
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I really need help with this issue as I am out ideas
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:10 PM   #23
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How are you reading coolant temp? Potential faulty coolant temp sensor or a semi clogged rad.

Any reason why you went to the trouble to replace the head gasket?
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:34 PM   #24
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Am reading the temp from my scanner (Blue driver), I once flushed the radiator before putting in a new coolant. How do I know if the temp sensor is bad? By temp sensor, do you mean the ambient temp because that one isn't even existing on the car? (May have pulled out without me knowing). Though I don't know where the scanner gets a reading of 81C from since the sensor wasn't existing.

On the gasket, I was driving on the highway and I suddenly saw the overheating light on the dash, thereafter I was told my gasket was bad because coolant gets thrown out if I start the engine with rad cap open.

After changing the gasket, my temp hasn't gotten beyond 110C but I think it's just because I now actively monitor the temperature as I think it may have overheated otherwise.

Thanks for helping out so far.
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Old 08-28-2018, 05:45 PM   #25
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Yaris radiator overheating

Thread OP tried replacing/checking a number of things...then solved overheating by replacing clogged Yaris radiator

Last edited by dogsridewith; 08-31-2018 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:24 AM   #26
ojeysky
 
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A new radiator is somewhat expensive in my country but if am going for that, I want to be almost certain that it is the fix to the problem. Is there a way I can verify this before proceeding to replace?
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Old 08-29-2018, 06:05 AM   #27
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I decided to try bleeding the radiator this morning, am attaching the initial behaviour of the coolant as there were lots of foaming and bubbles, after leaving it for about 20 Idle, the foaming reduced, though I will note that whenever the fan kicks in the coolant pops and spills out from the radiator.

Does the above give any indication of what might be causing my temperature increase?

I have also attached screenshot of my bluedriver scanner during the bleeding.

From the screenshot you will notice my ambient still reads as 81C, should I be worried about that?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1535537367524118~3.jpg (277.6 KB, 48 views)
File Type: png 1535538089750623~2.png (131.2 KB, 46 views)
File Type: png 1535538089931253~2.png (160.5 KB, 46 views)

Last edited by ojeysky; 08-29-2018 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:03 AM   #28
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That seems like a ridiculous amount of foaming and bubbles in coolant.

I'm surprised you to all the cost and trouble to do a head gasket without doing a leakdown test. Get a leakdown test and see what it shows. You could have a warped head which would make the new head gasket useless if that is the problem.

The coolant will spill over as the temp increases that is normal
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:27 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojeysky View Post
Am reading the temp from my scanner (Blue driver), I once flushed the radiator before putting in a new coolant. How do I know if the temp sensor is bad? By temp sensor, do you mean the ambient temp because that one isn't even existing on the car? (May have pulled out without me knowing). Though I don't know where the scanner gets a reading of 81C from since the sensor wasn't existing.

On the gasket, I was driving on the highway and I suddenly saw the overheating light on the dash, thereafter I was told my gasket was bad because coolant gets thrown out if I start the engine with rad cap open.

After changing the gasket, my temp hasn't gotten beyond 110C but I think it's just because I now actively monitor the temperature as I think it may have overheated otherwise.

Thanks for helping out so far.
maybe U the 2nd one this week killing a Yaris engine by driving along w/ over-temp lamp lit and broken serpentine belt? (or something else disabling the cooling system) but maybe not. maybe neither head gasket is bad and you're just seeing boiling coolant.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:36 AM   #30
ojeysky
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
That seems like a ridiculous amount of foaming and bubbles in coolant.

I'm surprised you to all the cost and trouble to do a head gasket without doing a leakdown test. Get a leakdown test and see what it shows. You could have a warped head which would make the new head gasket useless if that is the problem.

The coolant will spill over as the temp increases that is normal
Unfortunately there is no automobile shop where I can do a leakdown test in my state, I will have to drive over 400 miles to get to another state (Lagos) where I can do such test. Is there any check I can do myself different from the leakdown?
Fyi, car drives very well, just the high temperature that remains a concern and by the way I seem to have high fuel consumption as well (11L/100km)

Thanks
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:37 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
maybe U the 2nd one this week killing a Yaris engine by driving along w/ over-temp lamp lit and broken serpentine belt? (or something else disabling the cooling system) but maybe not. maybe neither head gasket is bad and you're just seeing boiling coolant.
Nope, the gasket change happened earlier in the year, when I had overheating light and my belt is fine.

Last edited by ojeysky; 08-29-2018 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 08-30-2018, 04:15 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojeysky View Post
On the gasket, I was driving on the highway and I suddenly saw the overheating light on the dash, thereafter I was told my gasket was bad because coolant gets thrown out if I start the engine with rad cap open.

After changing the gasket, my temp hasn't gotten beyond 110C but I think it's just because I now actively monitor the temperature as I think it may have overheated otherwise.

Thanks for helping out so far.
When you had the head gasket changed did you have the root cause of the overheating addressed? If not changing the head gasket is kind of like treating the symptoms but not the disease.

Once the car reaches operating temp (once the cooling fan starts cycling on/off) you shouldn't see any bubbles or foaming at the top of the radiator.

Your long term fuel trim value of -13.3 indicates the car is running rich which seems to be validated by the poor fuel economy you're experiencing.
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:20 PM   #33
ojeysky
 
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My mechanic who worked on it, informed me that the cause was fixed and I actually haven't experienced overheating since then. I got the car sometime last year with 100k+ miles without maintenance history.

Yes the bubbles stopped after the fan kicked in but it happened at the second kick in cycle of the fan.
What do I need to check on the poor fuel part? Here is what I have done:
Changed plugs, air filter, 02 sensor, and coolant.
I also started using recommend oil 5w30 full synthetic as my mechanic indicated that previous owner may not have used such oil and that it's one of the causes.
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Old 08-31-2018, 07:47 AM   #34
ojeysky
 
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Update!

The feedback I got from my mechanic is that cylinder head is warped, hot cylinder compression are finding their way inside the cooling system.
I guess getting a new engine will be the next line of action. However I do not have the budget for now with kids resuming school next week.
Question is, car drives and idle very well for now, no smoke and performance seem good except fuel and temperature. What are things I can do on the car to minimise impact of the warped head pending when I get a replacement engine?
By the way my engine oil also reduces by a litre for every 700 miles and I wonder if changing to 10W40 semi synthetic will be okay. Weather condition is usually 30C above across the year

Thanks for your support so far.
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:06 AM   #35
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Hello,

Has anyone tried this stuff before, is it safe to use?: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:36 AM   #36
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have you tried a new rad cap? you could be sucking in air if the rad cap no longer seals properly.
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