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Old 02-04-2019, 07:59 PM   #19
myfirstyota
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Ok so i really dont like the fuse tap idea. Not because theres anything wrong with it, i jist wanted a clean fusebox.

Would it be a good idea to splice into the output side of the efi fuse inside the fusebox and possibly install a slightly larger fuse into the efi spot?
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Old 02-04-2019, 08:30 PM   #20
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In the chance of an electrical issue pulling more current then the EFI system should your protection on the system is gone. Its rated for 10A if you splice down stream and increase the amperage of the fuse, then you could potentially over power the EFI circuit.

You could try keeping the fuse at 10A and see if it blows. I cant remember exactly how the fuse taps are wired internally but it does use the original fuse/circuit to power the added circuit and it never blows the original 10A circuit. But it also may be internally wires separately.

You likely will be fine but IMO the fuse tap is well worth no extra loaded circuits. Once the fuse cover is on, it is as clean as factory spec. Plus if you ever needed to remove the wire it's as simple as disconnecting it which I always like
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Old 02-05-2019, 10:30 PM   #21
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Swap to EFI location complete.

New reading with MAF plugged in and after the ECU goes to sleep (about a minute):

30mA

Battery is reading 12.62V now and I decided to remove the tender. I'll let it sit for a few days, go back out and check voltage.

Once again, Trevor, thanks for this!
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Old 02-05-2019, 10:48 PM   #22
myfirstyota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
In the chance of an electrical issue pulling more current then the EFI system should your protection on the system is gone. Its rated for 10A if you splice down stream and increase the amperage of the fuse, then you could potentially over power the EFI circuit.

You could try keeping the fuse at 10A and see if it blows. I cant remember exactly how the fuse taps are wired internally but it does use the original fuse/circuit to power the added circuit and it never blows the original 10A circuit. But it also may be internally wires separately.

You likely will be fine but IMO the fuse tap is well worth no extra loaded circuits. Once the fuse cover is on, it is as clean as factory spec. Plus if you ever needed to remove the wire it's as simple as disconnecting it which I always like
Ok so my next question is:
For the efi fuse.. is it powered by a buss like the others?
Or is there wire feeding the powered side of the fuse? If there's a wire feeding the fuse, I could splice off that wire and run to an empty fuse slot, no?
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Old 02-06-2019, 08:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Swap to EFI location complete.

New reading with MAF plugged in and after the ECU goes to sleep (about a minute):

30mA

Battery is reading 12.62V now and I decided to remove the tender. I'll let it sit for a few days, go back out and check voltage.

Once again, Trevor, thanks for this!

No problem, glad to help and hopefully it saves someone from being stranded with a dead battery. 30mA is a fine parasitic draw and will not kill your battery for a long time


Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstyota View Post
Ok so my next question is:
For the efi fuse.. is it powered by a buss like the others?
Or is there wire feeding the powered side of the fuse? If there's a wire feeding the fuse, I could splice off that wire and run to an empty fuse slot, no?
I don't know for sure but I don't think its powered by a bus as it sort of fits by itself and it is one of the few if it only fuse in the fuse box that is ignition controlled.

There is a bank of fuses on the right of the fuse box that are all constant power and I'm pretty sure those are bus supplied.

You could probably lift the fuse box and chase a wire to the EFI fuse to see if there is a wire supplying it to tap off of. Too much work for me though, a fuse tap works perfectly and is quick
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Old 02-06-2019, 08:31 PM   #24
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Yea if it wasn't winter is have just cracked open the fusebox and looked but cause it's cold, just wanted to see if anyone knew off the top of their head
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:59 PM   #25
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Yea if it wasn't winter is have just cracked open the fusebox and looked but cause it's cold, just wanted to see if anyone knew off the top of their head
You mean you don't like wrenching in pouring freezing rain?!
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Old 02-07-2019, 12:04 AM   #26
myfirstyota
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While standing in 7" of wet slush? Naa not a fan lol
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Old 02-10-2019, 02:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
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You mean you don't like wrenching in pouring freezing rain?!
^ this. Then 80-90 kph winds later in the week kept me from bothering with it.. ambition lost to necessity. lol

Just a confirmation for the 3rd gen. I did drag my butt outside and check today, and basically any of the open spots in the main junction box are 12V constant supply, unless you move onto the ... "cartridge thingy" (?!)... that has the EFI fuses and IGN fuses. Some (not all) of those are ignition supplied, so I moved the MAF fuse tap onto one of those, then re-checked. Noticed that the shutdown current was bouncing a bit, but down to 150-180mA or so, then after 60s dropped to about 100mA. Looking back now, this jives with what I found with the MAF disconnected.

I did try removing my battery supplied constant power to the Valvematic to see if it would further reduce it, and found that it made no difference. I imagined that it would have been keeping something energized, but I guess until requested to change position, the Valvematic draws nothing for current.

Regarding using a fuse tap vs. wiring - I don't recall if I posted the picture, but pry open and look at the back-side of the main junction box - it's a rats nest of epic proportions in there! And to power a slot you need the correct terminal to clip into the junction box as well - the fuse slots are not the same as regular connector terminals so far as I can tell. I thought about it, then decided to use the fuse tap to "make it work first, then tidy later" and to be honest the fuse tap is working just fine.

Also, just to clarify, fuse taps wire in parallel. The circuit you tap remains one branch, and the new tap parallels a new branch off the supply side of the original circuit. There is no change to the downstream (device) side of the circuit you tapped off of as it remains fused with it original fuse and downstream there are no changes. The upstream wiring and any upstream fuse will now have to handle whatever load you have tapped onto the circuit though. In our case, if the upstream side is powered off the 20A Main EFI circuit, the MAF is now added it's current load to the circuit wiring you tapped and the Main EFI fuse; which I believe the MAF is downstream of the Main EFI fuse anyway in factory setup. The only risk is to the supply wire of the circuit you tapped.

I'll have to have another look as to why my 'base' draw is still around 100mA when I get an opportunity - maybe March break if the weather is nice.. get the car washed, badged, and tidy some little bits. Meantime, thanks again Trevor for raising the issue and chasing it down!

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Old 02-11-2019, 10:00 PM   #28
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Good info on the fuse tap. I always thought they were wired parallel but I remember not having power to my additional wire when the fuse from the original line was removed from the tap.

Your 100mA parasitic draw seems a bit high. It probably will keep your battery fine for at least 5-7 days in the dead of winter and much longer in the summer, but it should definitely be below 50mA, something else is drawing current.

Start with any aftermarket/2zr swap wiring, and then pull factory fuses and see what drops the draw.
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