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Old 12-07-2017, 10:41 PM   #1
06YarisRS
 
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VVT-i Oil Control Valve

I have some ticking under load from my 08. No ticking at idle. It's not really heavy but my 06's engine is pretty quiet so I see no reason that the 08 should not be the same. As I mentioned in an earlier post, when I bought the car it was low on oil and what oil was there was pretty black. This evening I pulled the OCV and was surprised to see how clean it was. I've done about 3 short oil change intervals so I think it's cleaned up any junk that may have been inside the engine. I ordered a valve cover gasket and plan to test my valve clearances. Hopefully they are within spec as valve bucket replacement appears to be a major job involving removing the camshafts. I used my stethoscope and didn't hear anything really bad from either the intake or exhaust sides but I don't have a trained ear. I'm going out a on a limb here and will predict - probably incorrectly - that I have a valve that exceeds the max spec of 0.25 mm for intake or 0.35 mm for exhaust. It sounds like a cam lobe whacking down on a bucket, but again, this is just based on reading I've done online and not from experience with any overhead cam engine. I did do valve adjustments using feeler gauges on older engines I had that were equipped with push rods and rocker arms.

Certainly open to other suggestions as to what might cause a seeming valve train noise under load. I'll inspect the exhaust manifold tomorrow to see if there are any leaks. Apparently, this can sound like a valve tick. The tick does subside somewhat after the engine is at operating temp for a while. I also reduced it a bit with a switch from conventional 5W30 (Castrol GTX) to SuperTech 5W20 Full Synthetic.

I will also drop the pan this upcoming week and check the condition of the oil pickup tube.

Here is a pic of the ocv. I expected to see some type of screen in there, but didn't.



Here is a pic from the last oil change. 14" winter wheels and tires were also installed with another set of cheap eBay hub caps. Fake 5 bolt covers, but, hey, they were cheap! While the car was up there, it got a thorough soaking of ProForm dripless undercoating including all frame rails, doors, engine bay, wheel houses, quarter panels, doors, hatch etc You can see the sprayer just to the right of the hoist post.

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Old 12-08-2017, 01:12 AM   #2
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moving to a thinner oil can only make problems worse down the line. I'd stick with 5-30 or even 10-30 in the summer.
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Old 12-08-2017, 04:06 AM   #3
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I think, if there is no ticking at idle check your camshaft, valves and vvt-i module/gear first.
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:49 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
moving to a thinner oil can only make problems worse down the line. I'd stick with 5-30 or even 10-30 in the summer.
Thanks! I was surprised that the 5W20 is quieter, expecting a heavier oil to cushion the lobes/buckets better. The noise got noticeably louder when I used the 5W30. My reasoning behind the lighter grade oil was to have the best flow in the event that there was any flow restriction due to what was likely a lack of oil changes. I'm not a big fan of engine flushes. I once had one done at the suggestion of a Walmart tech and developed a noise that did not go away. Never again. I thought about an application of AutoRX but not sure a 'cleaning' is the best approach here. I'll try some of my Quaker State 5W30 conventional next OCI, which will be very soon. I wonder if 5W40 or even 0W40 (during winter) would provide the best protection, especially where I have a higher mileage car.

Another thought: I know that in one of my Kias, the OEM filter resulted in the quietest engine. I wonder if the aftermarket filters I'm using are a bit too restrictive and that an OEM filter might provide better results. I did email EcoGard and they replied saying that from a spec point of view, their filter should be identical in every way - including flow rate and pressure - to the OEM filter.
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freedomage View Post
I think, if there is no ticking at idle check your camshaft, valves and vvt-i module/gear first.
I agree. Though I know nothing about the module/gear from a testing/repair point of view. I feel confident in at least testing my valve lash. Thanks!
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:30 AM   #6
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Just you check your ocv filter screen located underneath the ocv?

As a side, the fuel injectors on the 1nz are loud and will be firing more when not at idle. Tough to say without hearing it first hand.
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Old 12-08-2017, 11:24 AM   #7
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Double post
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Old 12-08-2017, 11:25 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Just you check your ocv filter screen located underneath the ocv?

As a side, the fuel injectors on the 1nz are loud and will be firing more when not at idle. Tough to say without hearing it first hand.
Ah. The filter must be behind that plug with the Allen key (EDIT: Torx 50). Will check that this evening.

I wondered about fuel injectors. Not aware of any tests other than taking them out and having them tested/cleaned or replace with new or reman.
Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:12 PM   #9
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Removed and checked the OCV filter. It was a fairly straight forward job. Had to remove the serpentine belt and tilt the alternator fully forward.

Filter is spotless. I'm beginning to believe that my ticking sound may be exhaust manifold related. The ticking completely stops after the engine is at operating temp for 5 - 10 minutes.

Here is a pic of the OCV filter exactly as it came out of the engine - no cleaning.

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Old 12-10-2017, 09:11 AM   #10
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Clicking PCV, Oil pan gasket

I had a stock type metal PCV valve clicking like a valve tap on a stock 71 350 Chevy. (It sticks into a rubber grommet on the top of the left valve cover.)It wasn't particularly dirty or gummy, and looked and rattled, etc. like the replacement that didn't tick.
Glad you're doing and reporting this work. Valves and oil pan are on my list. I might try something I did on one donorcycle--Glue the lower face of the oil pan gasket to the pan, and grease the upper surface. Then can do cold oil changes. (No need for oil hot and just stirred to flush heavier particles, and no need to wait for dripping to stop.)Bulk drain through plug, then pull the pan and inspect/clean surfaces.)
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:49 PM   #11
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I had a stock type metal PCV valve clicking like a valve tap on a stock 71 350 Chevy. (It sticks into a rubber grommet on the top of the left valve cover.)It wasn't particularly dirty or gummy, and looked and rattled, etc. like the replacement that didn't tick.
Glad you're doing and reporting this work. Valves and oil pan are on my list. I might try something I did on one donorcycle--Glue the lower face of the oil pan gasket to the pan, and grease the upper surface. Then can do cold oil changes. (No need for oil hot and just stirred to flush heavier particles, and no need to wait for dripping to stop.)Bulk drain through plug, then pull the pan and inspect/clean surfaces.)
Yeah, I hope to get the pan dropped this week. Our shop is being inspected tomorrow for safety compliance. Hopefully it remains open. If not, it will likely be something minor and easily rectified. Anyway, I will report back as to the 'contents' in the pan and the condition of the pickup tube screen. I'll probably use a strong solvent on it just to be sure.

Valve cover gasket should arrive any day. I'm chomping at the bit to get that valve cover off, see under it and check the valve clearances.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Removed and checked the OCV filter. It was a fairly straight forward job. Had to remove the serpentine belt and tilt the alternator fully forward.

Filter is spotless. I'm beginning to believe that my ticking sound may be exhaust manifold related. The ticking completely stops after the engine is at operating temp for 5 - 10 minutes.

Here is a pic of the OCV filter exactly as it came out of the engine - no cleaning.

I hope you changed the filter. It's broken.
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:32 PM   #13
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Maybe my ticking is from the busted off piece in the engine. Joking aside, the piece that appears to be missing seems to be pretty symmetrical. I wasn't positive that it isn't designed that way. I did find a couple suppliers online and will order one. I couldn't find an actual picture of one, just a drawing from the OEM parts diagrams.

EDIT: I found one pic (low quality) online that looks as though that channel ot knotch is intended to be there.



EDIT 2: On closer inspection, mine does appear to be broken. I'm going to order one this evening. Thanks for pointing it out!
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Old 12-21-2017, 11:00 PM   #14
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Engine Ticking Under Load...Exhaust?

My exhaust manifold heat shield had rusted off where it attaches to the lower part of the manifold. I removed it tonight. Glad I did as as soon as I removed it, I noticed that I am missing one flange spring bolt. I think I'm going to need a manifold in the not too distant future as the flange itself looks quite corroded. I'm now wondering if my ticking is actually an exhaust leak, though from what I've read that kind of ticking sounds can come from a bad manifold to head gasket. I'll grab a spring bolt and put it on tomorrow. I'll also try snugging up the manifold bolts. I'm not optimistic that it's the cause of my ticking, but it needs fixing anyway. Maybe I'll get lucky!
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