Regular car wash, or Dealer car wash? - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

TrancosRt · 08-02-2006, 07:54 PM

Am I crazy for washing my Yaris in less than a week of owning it? :P
In my defence, in the first night I had it, 2 pouring storms fell on it, so the all the glasses were quite dirty. Being so small, it is a brease to wash!!! The only problem I foresee will be leaving the huge windshield spotless (well, streaks-less).

*Chris07LB* · 08-03-2006, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrancosRt

Am I crazy for washing my Yaris in less than a week of owning it? :P
In my defence, in the first night I had it, 2 pouring storms fell on it, so the all the glasses were quite dirty. Being so small, it is a brease to wash!!! The only problem I foresee will be leaving the huge windshield spotless (well, streaks-less).

You are not crazy at all... the first thing new owners should be doing ASAP after getting their cars, is getting a coat of wax on it!

Yes it may look showroom PERFECT, but there is NOTHING protecting the paint at that point! Even if you go buy the super easy to apply, super easy to remove Turtle Wax ICE wax thats out right now (works awesome BTW!), get something on the paint, and protect it early.

TRD_Yaris · 08-05-2006, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris07LB

You are not crazy at all... the first thing new owners should be doing ASAP after getting their cars, is getting a coat of wax on it!

Yes it may look showroom PERFECT, but there is NOTHING protecting the paint at that point! Even if you go buy the super easy to apply, super easy to remove Turtle Wax ICE wax thats out right now (works awesome BTW!), get something on the paint, and protect it early.

yeah, I wondered if they actually waxed our Yarii from the factory or dealership...but I'm guessing not. My black paint is starting to get tougher and tougher to wash. I've only washed it three times, becauase i'm afraid that everytime I wash it (without wax) i'm basically scratching the clearcoat more

THE MOST INFORMATIVE WEBSITE FOR AUTO DETAILING / WAXING!!!!!!
AUTOPIA.COM

MY WASH TIPS:
ALWAYS HAVE 2 WASH BUCKETS. 1 for soap, 1 to rinse off your sponge/washmitt TO KEEP your SOAP BUCKET from getting contaminated with dirt..

TrancosRt · 08-09-2006, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris07LB

You are not crazy at all... the first thing new owners should be doing ASAP after getting their cars, is getting a coat of wax on it!

Yes it may look showroom PERFECT, but there is NOTHING protecting the paint at that point! Even if you go buy the super easy to apply, super easy to remove Turtle Wax ICE wax thats out right now (works awesome BTW!), get something on the paint, and protect it early.

Don't get me wrong, I've been using the wax as you dry stuff for a long time in all my cars. In my next wash I might go all the way for a full wax, but I'll have to buy a good wax mit and polisher.

sroberts · 08-09-2006, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckethead

Someone mentioned that when you get your car washed that you should go to the dealer to maintain warranty.

the guy who told you that must do this a lot.....

bigsky2 · 08-10-2006, 01:04 AM

A repost, from my waxing post:

Update

I applied the the wax (Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax, consumer line) to my Yaris with a 10" random orbital polisher last weekend.

Results?
VERY BEAUTIFUL.

Meguiar's Gold Class wax applied very easily using the polisher and also by hand, and it dried in about 10 minutes. I changed bonnets and the removal/buffing of the wax was extremely easy (and pleasing). The wax came off very easily and left no streaks at all. It revealed a highly glossy and polished shine and it felt so smooth to the touch. I threw a clean towel on the car and it slipped off!

I didn't get a chance to take pictures of the process because I had my hands tied.

My recommendations for waxing, some based on common suggestions:

- Do it in an enclosed environment so as to prevent any dust and debris settling on the coat of wax as you are applying it (ie. Underground parking area, garage, somewhere covered)
- Do not apply wax in a hot or wet environment, avoid direct sunlight
- Make sure your car is washed, cleaned, and dried
---> Washed: All dirt and debris is removed via car wash/shampoo and water
---> Cleaned: All contaminants, oxidation, and other surface irritants removed (ie. use a clay bar or other detailer products to get rid of these things)
---> Dried: Dry it with a lint free towel or cloth (terry or microfibre)

- Give yourself plenty of time to do all of the above!
- Use an orbital or PC if you can, it will make your job a lot easier
- Hand apply/remove wax in areas the machine polisher cannot reach
- Allow the wax to dry to a haze, and perform a swipe test to determine if it's ready to remove
---> Swipe Test: Take a clean finger, and swipe it across the surface of the car. If your finger leaves residue or streaks, then the wax is not ready to be removed. If the surface is clean after you swiped it, then it's ready to be removed.

In terms of the types of bonnets to use, I used the following:

- Applying wax: Vinyl-lined wax applicator (the backside of the bonnet is vinyl lined so that the wax does not soak through the bonnet, thus allowing the bonnet to apply wax appropriately to the surface of the car)
- Removing wax/Buffing: Foam wax remove bonnet**

** You can also use a terry cloth or microfibre polishing bonnet to remove wax/buff, but a foam remover works just as well

For those spots you had to do by hand, remove the wax using a terry or microfibre cloth.

And finally.. How to test if your car needs to be waxed?

The Squeak Test!
---> On a clean and dry surface, take a clean towel and ball it up so that you can put your fist around the towel and rub it firmly along the surface of the car in a circular motion. If you hear the towel squeaking against the surface AND OR if there is any friction as you move the towel, then that means there is no wax on the surface. Since wax increases slip and decreases friction, the presence of friction indicates that there is little or no wax on the surface.

Hope this helps anyone who hasn't waxed a car before, as this was my first time and I received lots of help from experienced friends and the detailing gurus at Meguiar's online.

fnkngrv · 08-11-2006, 12:55 PM

Alright I am now going to pull back on my previous post for using a touch free car wash. I just got back from the one that I have used for years and when i pulled out I went to pick up food....I came out and saw something flicker wrong on my front body lip. After closer observation I have found that a 4x6 inch section of paint has peeled off!

I immediately called the dealer closest to me (60 miles away) and they told me to bring it in to repair it under the paint warranty. On the way back to work I dropped in to a buddy of mine that has an auto body shop and he told me that they didn't clear coat the body kit, the front, bumper assembly, nor the rear! WTF? I can't imagine why that is so...I asked him if that was right and he said that he didn't believe that the car should be sold that way? Anyone have any ideas?

Buckethead · 08-11-2006, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

Alright I am now going to pull back on my previous post for using a touch free car wash. I just got back from the one that I have used for years and when i pulled out I went to pick up food....I came out and saw something flicker wrong on my front body lip. After closer observation I have found that a 4x6 inch section of paint has peeled off!

I immediately called the dealer closest to me (60 miles away) and they told me to bring it in to repair it under the paint warranty. On the way back to work I dropped in to a buddy of mine that has an auto body shop and he told me that they didn't clear coat the body kit, the front, bumper assembly, nor the rear! WTF? I can't imagine why that is so...I asked him if that was right and he said that he didn't believe that the car should be sold that way? Anyone have any ideas?

Awe, man, that shit breaks my heart!

Gotta call Toyota, and ask them if it was clear coated or not. I wonder if it's an isolated incident or if they all came off the truck that way.

TRD_Yaris · 08-12-2006, 07:38 AM

Toyota dropped the ball. good luck getting it fixed, since REPAINTS WILL NEVER BE EVEN HALF as good as OEM paint that is applied/cured under STRICT ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS (temp, humidity, air pressure,etc.)

Jem_hadar · 08-13-2006, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by casterqc

Basic car washing: How to:

items needed:
- any liquid or gel car wash...I prefer gel
- a clean wash mitt
- a clean Chamois

Rules:
- Use a water hose to get rid of surface dirt all around your car
- Clean wash mitt and chamois with water and soap
- Use wash mitt with gel car wash to wash your car...don't ever use Dishwashing Liquid...unless you do it in the purpose of waxing your car in the minute after.
- Always wash the car from the top to the bottom...once you have done the bottom you can't go back on the top. The reason is simple...the dirt on the bottom of the car (bottom sides, bumper) is the kind of dirt that can damage your paint the most. On the road, you're car will catch bugs, grease, rubber (that they use to fill holes on the road)...the sand and little rocks stick to those...you don't want to put these all around your car while washing it.
- DO NOT drop you wash mitt on the ground...do I have to explain why?
- Wash the wheels at the end.
- Don't try to wash your tires with your wash mitt!
- Use hose frequently to get rid of the remaining soap on the car...you don't want it to dry...it leaves ugly spots.
- Use wet chamois to avoid water spots on the paint
- Use chamois from top to bottom...same rule

When everything is done, take the time to clean the mitt and the chamois with water and soap so it will be clean next time you use it.

Your done.

I do not recommend any car wash. The reason is that it keeps dirt from other vehicules on the brushes. I also not recommend the touchless car wash because pressure hose on paint can be damageable with time.

have fun!

Thank you. Great tips and procedures. This will be very helpful for me! ^5

Jem

Buckethead · 08-15-2006, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

ain't that the truth!

I would also advise then next time you see them to cut them off from the

or else you could just tell them they are full of

and then

after you

P.S. if you do the above mentioned make sure you get good pics!

Ok....I am done being an ass for the day.

Were you able to paint the ride?

fnkngrv · 08-15-2006, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckethead

Were you able to paint the ride?

I am working with the dealer on it...they are having issues finding my VIN in the Toyota System. I am going to demand a new front lip....since they would just repaint the lip itself I may just pay the difference with them to get the new lip...that way I have OEM paint.

Buckethead · 08-16-2006, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

I am working with the dealer on it...they are having issues finding my VIN in the Toyota System. I am going to demand a new front lip....since they would just repaint the lip itself I may just pay the difference with them to get the new lip...that way I have OEM paint.

Excellent.

swng · 08-16-2006, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

I am working with the dealer on it...they are having issues finding my VIN in the Toyota System. I am going to demand a new front lip....since they would just repaint the lip itself I may just pay the difference with them to get the new lip...that way I have OEM paint.

Wish you success in your negotiation.
Your fall back position, which is if Toyota insists to repaint the lip only, you can say you wish to pay the difference between the paint job's cost and a new lip's price in order to get a new lip, is smart. Intuitively, I do not think the difference is big. You can even claim back the damaged lip from them afterwards and sell it.
Hope you don't have to offer this to Toyota anyway.

ChinoCharles · 08-17-2006, 10:45 AM

On the topic of the original topic, I bought that Turtle Wax ICE detailing spray and some microfiber products and used them yesterday, and I was astonished. It literally looked cleaner than it was coming from the dealership. ICE = Great product.

*Chris07LB* · 08-17-2006, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChinoCharles

On the topic of the original topic, I bought that Turtle Wax ICE detailing spray and some microfiber products and used them yesterday, and I was astonished. It literally looked cleaner than it was coming from the dealership. ICE = Great product.

Try using the TW ICE, then go over the whole car again with the TW ICE Detailer Spray with a damp microfiber towel... then take a clean dry microfiber towel next, and just go over the whole car.

Dead sexy!

Buckethead · 08-17-2006, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris07LB

Try using the TW ICE, then go over the whole car again with the TW ICE Detailer Spray with a damp microfiber towel... then take a clean dry microfiber towel next, and just go over the whole car.

Dead sexy!

Wow, that's cool!

It's coming up for a car wash, and I will buy the Ice detailer, and do it all over again.
The ICE stuff works wondersQQ

ICE wax/ICE detailer=

fnkngrv · 08-17-2006, 12:59 PM

Well I decided to give Meguiar’s NXT Generation along with Black Magic Titanium for the tires and they both work excellent. I used Meguiars NXT Generation Car Wash for washing itself. I can't get over how clean it looks...even better than when i pulled it off the lot....I would recommend to anyone.

08-10-2006, 01:04 AM	#24
bigsky2 Cousin Vitz View User's Garage Drives: Yaris RS 5DR / Vitz RS wannabe Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 1,082	A repost, from my waxing post: Update I applied the the wax (Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax, consumer line) to my Yaris with a 10" random orbital polisher last weekend. Results? VERY BEAUTIFUL. Meguiar's Gold Class wax applied very easily using the polisher and also by hand, and it dried in about 10 minutes. I changed bonnets and the removal/buffing of the wax was extremely easy (and pleasing). The wax came off very easily and left no streaks at all. It revealed a highly glossy and polished shine and it felt so smooth to the touch. I threw a clean towel on the car and it slipped off! I didn't get a chance to take pictures of the process because I had my hands tied. My recommendations for waxing, some based on common suggestions: - Do it in an enclosed environment so as to prevent any dust and debris settling on the coat of wax as you are applying it (ie. Underground parking area, garage, somewhere covered) - Do not apply wax in a hot or wet environment, avoid direct sunlight - Make sure your car is washed, cleaned, and dried ---> Washed: All dirt and debris is removed via car wash/shampoo and water ---> Cleaned: All contaminants, oxidation, and other surface irritants removed (ie. use a clay bar or other detailer products to get rid of these things) ---> Dried: Dry it with a lint free towel or cloth (terry or microfibre) - Give yourself plenty of time to do all of the above! - Use an orbital or PC if you can, it will make your job a lot easier - Hand apply/remove wax in areas the machine polisher cannot reach - Allow the wax to dry to a haze, and perform a swipe test to determine if it's ready to remove ---> Swipe Test: Take a clean finger, and swipe it across the surface of the car. If your finger leaves residue or streaks, then the wax is not ready to be removed. If the surface is clean after you swiped it, then it's ready to be removed. In terms of the types of bonnets to use, I used the following: - Applying wax: Vinyl-lined wax applicator (the backside of the bonnet is vinyl lined so that the wax does not soak through the bonnet, thus allowing the bonnet to apply wax appropriately to the surface of the car) - Removing wax/Buffing: Foam wax remove bonnet You can also use a terry cloth or microfibre polishing bonnet to remove wax/buff, but a foam remover works just as well For those spots you had to do by hand, remove the wax using a terry or microfibre cloth. And finally.. How to test if your car needs to be waxed? The Squeak Test! ---> On a clean and dry surface, take a clean towel and ball it up so that you can put your fist around the towel and rub it firmly along the surface of the car in a circular motion. If you hear the towel squeaking against the surface AND OR if there is any friction as you move the towel, then that means there is no wax on the surface. Since wax increases slip and decreases friction, the presence of friction indicates that there is little or no wax on the surface. Hope this helps anyone who hasn't waxed a car before, as this was my first time and I received lots of help from experienced friends and the detailing gurus at Meguiar's online. __________________ 2007 Yaris RS Hatchback Black Sand Pearl 5DR MT DIY Speaker Spacer/Bracket Template for Yaris Hatchback http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1930

08-11-2006, 12:55 PM	#25
fnkngrv Mr. 155 and climbing View User's Garage Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: In The Hotbox Posts: 4,742	Alright I am now going to pull back on my previous post for using a touch free car wash. I just got back from the one that I have used for years and when i pulled out I went to pick up food....I came out and saw something flicker wrong on my front body lip. After closer observation I have found that a 4x6 inch section of paint has peeled off! I immediately called the dealer closest to me (60 miles away) and they told me to bring it in to repair it under the paint warranty. On the way back to work I dropped in to a buddy of mine that has an auto body shop and he told me that they didn't clear coat the body kit, the front, bumper assembly, nor the rear! WTF? I can't imagine why that is so...I asked him if that was right and he said that he didn't believe that the car should be sold that way? Anyone have any ideas? __________________ Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing *Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.*

08-12-2006, 07:38 AM	#27
TRD_Yaris Yarii Hunter Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback and S13's Join Date: May 2006 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 437	Toyota dropped the ball. good luck getting it fixed, since REPAINTS WILL NEVER BE EVEN HALF as good as OEM paint that is applied/cured under STRICT ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS (temp, humidity, air pressure,etc.) __________________ Thanks for all the help over the years, YarisWorld!!!

08-17-2006, 12:59 PM	#36
fnkngrv Mr. 155 and climbing View User's Garage Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: In The Hotbox Posts: 4,742	Well I decided to give Meguiar’s NXT Generation along with Black Magic Titanium for the tires and they both work excellent. I used Meguiars NXT Generation Car Wash for washing itself. I can't get over how clean it looks...even better than when i pulled it off the lot....I would recommend to anyone. __________________ Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing *Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes.*

08-02-2006, 07:54 PM	#19
TrancosRt View User's Garage Drives: 07 Silver HB Yaris Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: S Florida Posts: 289	Am I crazy for washing my Yaris in less than a week of owning it? :P In my defence, in the first night I had it, 2 pouring storms fell on it, so the all the glasses were quite dirty. Being so small, it is a brease to wash!!! The only problem I foresee will be leaving the huge windshield spotless (well, streaks-less).

08-17-2006, 10:45 AM	#33
ChinoCharles Banned Drives: LB Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: OH Posts: 7,787	On the topic of the original topic, I bought that Turtle Wax ICE detailing spray and some microfiber products and used them yesterday, and I was astonished. It literally looked cleaner than it was coming from the dealership. ICE = Great product.