S/C owners: collecting information

[cali yaris]

The Hydra has full standalone capability (at least their Nemesis 2 does), including timing, peripherals (a/c, power steering, etc), and other functions. Much like the AEM EMS I'm using, or a MoTeC, etc.

MegaSquirt gives control over fuel only - the ECU is still doing most of the work to control the motor.

[Mouse]

This is what I found on the MS

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...tem/index.html

[turboecho2005]

Mouse is right... Megasquirt can be used as either a standalone or a piggyback. But you may lose the vvti... Unless someone has figured that out.

I used megasquirt as a piggy back on the 1nzfe and its a full standalone on the 4age.

[LtNoogie]

KK, have you tried a tankful without the addditive? I believe that Yaris T-sport mentioned that he was able to stop using the octane booster. I don't understand why other than maybe the ECU was able to learn and adjust. Doesn't make sense to me.

[kurokoma-kun]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

KK, have you tried a tankful without the addditive? I believe that Yaris T-sport mentioned that he was able to stop using the octane booster. I don't understand why other than maybe the ECU was able to learn and adjust. Doesn't make sense to me.

Yeah, I saw T-sport's comments and tried a tank without additive last week but the knocking returned.

It runs so well with the octane booster I almost don't mind the added expense, but seeing what others have said about the long-term effect on spark plugs does concern me.

[kurokoma-kun]

My ignition timing:
at idle ~5
out of boost ~30 (AFR 14s-15s)
under low boost ~15 (AFR 14s-15s)
at wot ~10, rarely + briefly single digits (AFR 11s-12s)

Originally Posted by camelll

KK do you have shell gas stations with 93? I have used that multiple tanks without octane booster and no knocking. I cannot get bp 93 as they don't have it here but bp 91 knocks like crazy without octane booster.

Well, BP near me are calling what they have 93 octane though sometimes I suspect we are all getting crap gas! Seems like lately I've read more posts about stalling and poor performance in other parts of the board than ever before. Hell I dunno </conspiracy theory> Annnnyway, have not tried Shell, I'll have to see if I can find it!

[PETERPOOP]

Originally Posted by kurokoma-kun

My ignition timing:
at idle ~5
out of boost ~30 (AFR 14s-15s)
under low boost ~15 (AFR 14s-15s)
at wot ~10, rarely + briefly single digits (AFR 11s-12s)

Originally Posted by camelll

I see single digits on timing anytime under boost regardless of a/f ratio. The only time I see above single digits is out of boost. If I am above single digits during boost it is real low teens. Out of boost and normal driving I see 30's + on timing and without boost getting on it I see high teens to low 20's.

Max boost is 8.

my IGN is 17 under WOT with AFR of 13-14
my IGN is 25-30 w/ NO boost & normal driving w/ AFR of 14.5-15.1
My IGN is 15 when under low boost and AFR is 14.5-15.1
My IGN is 5 when coasting/neutral with AFR of 15

*All of my numbers of IGN and AFR seem to match with your guys, besides my IGN under WOT. I am seeing 17 IGN timing and not the low teens like you guys..

Is that safe? Is that why I am generating "more" power?

Here's a link to a thread I made about it last night with a video clip of my gauge readings from above..

http://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16720

[cali yaris]

Plus.... you shouldn't have to, in my opinion.

[PETERPOOP]

Well wouldn't we have to because a few people were guessing the blitz kit was tuned to 100 octane in Japan? And if that is true, it comes out to like 95-96 octane in the US?

[cali yaris]

I was thinking the same thing, but Blitz confirmed that they used a USDM car (here in the USA) to install and test their system. I doubt that car had more than 91 in it when they did their R&D here.

I'm emailing them again today to find out what's up.

[LtNoogie]

With my limited understanding of engine performance, I thought that when you retard to single digits on timing, you are delaying when the spark occurs to near top dead center. That helps to prevent pre-ignition but also outputs less power than if you had ignited earlier... meaning double digit ignition retardation. Earlier ignition allows for more of the fuel to completely burn.

Someone with more knowledge please chime in.

[LtNoogie]

I am going to try larger injectors next. I have to read up on why more fuel prevents pre-ignition.

[eTiMaGo]

you could also look into water/meth injection as a way too cool down the compressed air, though I'm not sure where you'd be able to fit the nozzle!

[LtNoogie]

AlexNet0 is fabricating a throttle body spacer with a NOS injection port. Perhaps the water/meth can be injected there. That is way low on my list of mods, though.

[eTiMaGo]

yeah but inejcting it before the compression takes place, I'm not sure how efficient it'll be? I mean, you basically want the liquid mist to absorb heat (thus cooling the air) and turn to steam...

[LtNoogie]

It still has the effect of cooling the intake air charge. You start cooler so your compressed charge is cooler. Here's an interesting article on a homemade water injection system.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/misc/mannject.html

[eTiMaGo]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

It still has the effect of cooling the intake air charge. You start cooler so your compressed charge is cooler. Here's an interesting article on a homemade water injection system.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/misc/mannject.html

very most interesting! Basically on our engines that's be using the vacuum line from the PCV system or brake booster, but the only problem I can think off, at full throttle, you don't have much of a vacuum, so there won't be so much flow through the tube and the water injection would be greatly reduced when you would actually want it most... So really I think you'd want to have a small aquarium pump or something to ensure a steady flow...

[Nexus1155]

30 degrees of ignition out of boost? and thats where the problem exits, your probably misfiring and knocking. I don't think you should be hitting those high of values like that...

I'm only running around 20-23 where it would be out of boost if i was on a yaris and this is on a 4.2L truck that can take a few more degrees.

http://i39.tinypic.com/vx0l6x.jpg