Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > DIY / Maintenance / Service
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-01-2014, 02:04 AM   #343
nookandcrannycar
 
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws!
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hershey View Post
Maybe we should change our user name to Captain Crunch. .
At least you are able to have a sense of humor about this. What is that old saying....If we didn't laugh, we'd cry?
nookandcrannycar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 09:55 AM   #344
brice1971
I've made a post!
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris S
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1
Control Arm bolts.

Recently had this happen as well. Battled with Toyota to cover this and lost. decided to tackle it myself.
The bolt head had completely broken off. Got it up on a lift and tried to loosen on side of the cross member enough to be able to grab it with some vise grips. This did not work.
Grabbed a punch and stuck it in the hole. Couple of smacks with the hammer and it shot up into the inside and separated the tacked on nut from the floor board.
As you might be able to see from the pictures there would've been no way to grab this and try to turn it out.
Rebolted this with nut and lock washer and on my way. Saved myself about 2 hundred bucks (this is what the local shop wanted to drop the cross member).
Had about an hour in the job and that included re-tightening everything I loosened on the first attempt.

FYI if you have had this repair done at an independent shop (non-Toyota Dealer) they will not reimburse you.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0407140939 (640x584).jpg (109.5 KB, 338 views)
brice1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 03:32 PM   #345
marcus
toyota
 
marcus's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
Unfortunately this is not a recall here in canada...why is that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you're gonna see some serious shit!!!!!!

"Horsepower is how fast you hit the object. Torque is how far you move that object.."
marcus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2014, 07:26 PM   #346
CB900F2
 
Drives: 08 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 301
Hi WildChild..

It’s been a while, but did your invoice note the TSB # you indicted in the previous reply was issued in 2012?



Quote:
Originally Posted by WildChild View Post
The repair was done this morning, free of charge.
CB900F2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 10:12 PM   #347
NEexpat
 
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
My friend decided to take a crack at changing his bolts a few days ago. He lives in the Northeast and has less than 60k on his car.

Once he got past the trepidation of ever so slowly loosening one then the other, that was it, completely uneventful.

Both expelled a couple of tablespoons of black liquid, I mean black. INK BLACK.

Once removed he was amazed..................................at the LACK of corrosion! Some rust on the threads, but nothing, zero, zippo, nada corrosion of any sort around the shaft or washer or the bolt head. No kidding. Nothing. He thought maybe just clean these up, dress them with anti seize and put them back. Went ahead with the new ones.

Someone mentioned here the hardest part of this was getting the wrench to click at 118 while lying on your back/side, no kidding! That and attempting it in the first place.

I believe he is now going to change them every 2 years, max.

Thankful that there were no issues, he understands how fortunate he was given some of the stories and experiences shared here.

Cheers.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bolts 001a.jpg (205.8 KB, 270 views)
File Type: jpg bolts 005a.jpg (183.9 KB, 264 views)
NEexpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 10:14 PM   #348
CTScott
ULTIMATE
 
CTScott's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
Interesting. The black deposits almost look like some form of an oily residue.
__________________
CTScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 10:20 PM   #349
NEexpat
 
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
Was odd, thought perhaps it was some kind of remnants of grease. My friend told me he had brought this whole issue up at the dealership several oil changes ago. Wonder if they maybe they took them out, greased them and put them back in?

As for the seam sealing, that is going to have to wait till he has access to a lift.

Last edited by NEexpat; 05-09-2014 at 10:31 PM.
NEexpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 10:36 PM   #350
CTScott
ULTIMATE
 
CTScott's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEexpat View Post
Was odd, thought perhaps it was some kind of remnants of grease. My friend told me he had brought this whole issue up at the dealership several oil changes ago. Wonder if they maybe they took them out, greased them and put them back in?

As for the seam sealing, that is going to have to wait till he has access to a lift.
That is very possible, that they greased them.

We had enviri's Yaris up on my lift this week and I contemplated checking/changing his bolts, but he has one of the front under braces on his car and it is basically fused to its mounting bolts thanks to his car being so low. So, if one snapped we would have had a bear of a time dropping the subframe to get it out.
__________________
CTScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2014, 10:57 PM   #351
NEexpat
 
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
Well that's it isn't it. In a nutshell, do you risk it, or continue on with your fingers crossed.
NEexpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2014, 01:23 PM   #352
Silverkarn
 
Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris 2D
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 28
How do i tell if my car is included in the problem cars?

VIN #JTDJT923085205355
Silverkarn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2014, 01:41 PM   #353
NEexpat
 
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
^Silver I think it is safe to say that this whole issue is a product of poor design and not poor bolts.

The shape and design of the lower control arm holds water around the bolt. Those who endure winters seem to be more susceptible to corrosion due to the caustic nature of chemicals and road salts etc. Hence the extended warranty, TSB's, including the additional seam sealing to prevent/lessen more water/moisture into that area.

I would love to say it doesn't hurt to check but this thread and others have documented quite the opposite.
NEexpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2014, 06:41 PM   #354
Silverkarn
 
Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris 2D
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEexpat View Post
^Silver I think it is safe to say that this whole issue is a product of poor design and not poor bolts.

The shape and design of the lower control arm holds water around the bolt. Those who endure winters seem to be more susceptible to corrosion due to the caustic nature of chemicals and road salts etc. Hence the extended warranty, TSB's, including the additional seam sealing to prevent/lessen more water/moisture into that area.

I would love to say it doesn't hurt to check but this thread and others have documented quite the opposite.
Well, in that case. what luck do you suppose i would have trying to remove the bolts in my car of 54k miles and rarely driven in the winter?

The bolts APPEAR to be fine from just a cursory look, so i assume that's all that the toyota dealership would do, and with my luck i doubt that they would break before next year when the extended warranty ran out on my 08 yaris.

Maybe i could try, then if they snapped off i could just claim that the car was making the odd sound?
Silverkarn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2014, 07:06 PM   #355
NEexpat
 
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
If I had to guess, and it would only be a guess, I am not a tech or mechanic. My guess would be that your bolts are probably fine, of course who knows.

A lot of people's bolt heads looked fine, the problem is hidden. If I were approaching the end of the extended warranty for the bolts and my bolts had never been replaced, I personally, not a suggestion or recommendation to anyone, I'd take a crack at them.

There are plenty of folks here who can speak to this far better than I can. I'm sure some will chime in.

Last edited by NEexpat; 05-10-2014 at 07:19 PM.
NEexpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2014, 02:55 PM   #356
jack black
 
jack black's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 red Yaris HB AT
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: southeast USA
Posts: 197
Thanks for this useful thread. What no one mentioned in this thread, the bolts are very easy to remove for inspection if one has semi-decent tools. I did it in my driveway without lifting the car and I used a cheap breaker bar like this, without any struggle:


My kid's Yaris was made in 2006, but spent all its life in deep south and mostly in south Florida. I didn't expect the bolts to be in bad condition, but there was some rust in the neck of the head, just next to the washer. Either water pooling there and/or galvanic corrosion due to different metal in the washer? Even though it rained a lot a week ago and before, the bolts were dry.

I packed the bolt area under the washer in grease and screwed it back. The 118 lbs/ft torque made me sweat a bit.

IMHO, since this is a simple job, everyone should at least remove the bolts for inspection/lubrication and/or replace if needed.

Yaris experts, anything else that needs to be torqued down there?
jack black is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2014, 07:04 PM   #357
CTScott
ULTIMATE
 
CTScott's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
Quote:
Originally Posted by jack black View Post
Thanks for this useful thread. What no one mentioned in this thread, the bolts are very easy to remove for inspection if one has semi-decent tools. I did it in my driveway without lifting the car and I used a cheap breaker bar like this, without any struggle:


My kid's Yaris was made in 2006, but spent all its life in deep south and mostly in south Florida. I didn't expect the bolts to be in bad condition, but there was some rust in the neck of the head, just next to the washer. Either water pooling there and/or galvanic corrosion due to different metal in the washer? Even though it rained a lot a week ago and before, the bolts were dry.

I packed the bolt area under the washer in grease and screwed it back. The 118 lbs/ft torque made me sweat a bit.

IMHO, since this is a simple job, everyone should at least remove the bolts for inspection/lubrication and/or replace if needed.

Yaris experts, anything else that needs to be torqued down there?

It is a very easy job provided they aren't rusted enough to snap. At that point in goes from a simple job with a breaker bar to an absolute nightmare. The problem is that you can't necessarily tell which way it is going to go until you give it a shot, so it is a bit of Russian roulette if you live North of the Mason-Dixon line.
__________________
CTScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2014, 09:37 PM   #358
jack black
 
jack black's Avatar
 
Drives: 2007 red Yaris HB AT
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: southeast USA
Posts: 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
It is a very easy job provided they aren't rusted enough to snap. At that point in goes from a simple job with a breaker bar to an absolute nightmare. The problem is that you can't necessarily tell which way it is going to go until you give it a shot, so it is a bit of Russian roulette if you live North of the Mason-Dixon line.
Yes, I didn't mean to minimize the issue when the bolts break. This is why I'm trying to say one should not wait, but check the bolts as soon as possible before they break.

Last edited by jack black; 05-12-2014 at 10:10 AM.
jack black is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2014, 12:20 AM   #359
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
I'll be replacing the bolts on my 08 Yaris this weekend as the dealership I ordered then from won't get them in until Tuesday. I live in Southern Ontario so I'm not expecting then to look great. I have an impact driver would anyone recommend using that to remove the bolts? Or am I better to stick with a cheater bar since to avoid snapping the head off?


Scott did you have to jack anything up to keep it from falling down when you removed the sub frame? I'm asking incase my bolts snap I want to be able to take it to my mechanic and have him weld on a but and remove the bolts without having to spend a ton of time and therefore cost me a ton if money. The more I can do myself the better and I don't have welding equipment.
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2014, 06:32 AM   #360
CTScott
ULTIMATE
 
CTScott's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I'll be replacing the bolts on my 08 Yaris this weekend as the dealership I ordered then from won't get them in until Tuesday. I live in Southern Ontario so I'm not expecting then to look great. I have an impact driver would anyone recommend using that to remove the bolts? Or am I better to stick with a cheater bar since to avoid snapping the head off?


Scott did you have to jack anything up to keep it from falling down when you removed the sub frame? I'm asking incase my bolts snap I want to be able to take it to my mechanic and have him weld on a but and remove the bolts without having to spend a ton of time and therefore cost me a ton if money. The more I can do myself the better and I don't have welding equipment.

I would use a long handled ratchet or breaker bar, rather than an impact gun. If the bolts are in bad shape the impact gun will snap them like toothpicks.

You don't have to support anything while removing them and can carefully drive to the dealership if one snaps on you.
__________________
CTScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY - 2009 Cruise Control for $10, without pulling the steering wheel and airbag CTScott DIY / Maintenance / Service 307 04-04-2023 03:43 AM
DIY Cruise Control FAQ (2006-2010 Yaris) CTScott DIY / Maintenance / Service 467 10-18-2022 10:20 AM
Cruise control install 2009 Yaris 3 door PeteZNY DIY / Maintenance / Service 124 09-25-2021 07:30 PM
Cruise Control - Again! CB900F2 DIY / Maintenance / Service 47 06-17-2010 06:29 PM
Cruise control vs MPG YarisOwnersDad Fuel Economy Forum 15 05-29-2009 03:55 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:25 AM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.