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Old 02-23-2010, 12:04 PM   #1
Crashmaster
 
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Vapor Canister

I have had my 2 door Yaris for about 28 months. It's just the standard plain jane model with the only two options being A/C and CD player. I have about 80,000 miles on it and have changed the oil between 5,000 and 6,000 miles since I bought it.

For about a month the engine light has been coming on. Doing the diagnostic, the codes come up indicating that the vapor canister is bad. I removed it and did some basic testing to see if any of the ports were clogged as per the maintence manual. Everything seems good but the codes keep coming up. Does anybody know of how I might be able to fix this on the cheep? A new one from Toyota costs about $775, and I just can't see spending a good percentage of what the car cost ($12,500) on a single part.

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:09 PM   #2
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any chance you bought the extended warranty with the car? If so that might be covered under it. Check aftermarket parts dealers as it might be less than half the price there
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Old 02-23-2010, 02:25 PM   #3
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In california there is extended emissions warrenty to 80k miles. Not sure what it is in other states. That vapor canister should be covered to 80 if not 100k miles since its a emissions related component.

Its more than likely a VSV that may have failed. Sometimes they can be changed individually from the canister. Not sure the exact test procedure. If you use a ohm meter you should measure resistance across the terminals and check for resistance to the body of each VSV on the canister.

Also if you blow through one end of the vacuum line of the VSV air should not go freely through if you apply battery voltage you should hear the VSV click and then air should go through.

If you have the mechanical knowledge on how the remove the canister you should be able to perform these basic tests. If you find a solinoid that is bad pull the part number off it and call toyota to see if they sell that indiviual VSV.

They usually run between 35-75 much cheaper than 700

Last edited by YarisSedan; 02-23-2010 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 03:14 PM   #4
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check the gas cap, [first likely suspect in evap issues]
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:53 PM   #5
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Thanks for the help. I replaced the gas cap and the light went out for three days, then returned.

I did pull the vapor canister and blew through all the ports and all was free. I also blew through the vacuum and it didn't go freely and I could hear the diaphragm engaging.

As far as the VSV, it's one piece. So, I'm out of luck there, unless I can find one in a junkyard. I guess I'll keep plugging away, maybe I can find a loose wire or something.
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:15 PM   #6
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i personally think, from reading ure situation (and assuming the 3days it was off is the longest yet) that it has something to do with the gas cap system or area..... i had a similar situation on my moms camry, O2 sensor acting up (said the computer) toyota said it would be around 500 bucks to change

turned out after about 2 weeks with the light on and me messing around that a 1cm diameter rubber hose broke and came off something.... 20 mins later, $5.99 and trip to the pet store (fish tank part....) engine ligt never came on
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:45 PM   #7
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What DTCs are logged when it happens?
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Old 02-27-2010, 05:12 PM   #8
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Sorry for the long delay in my response, stressful work week.

There are 10 codes that have been triggered: 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419. All of these codes show up twice; the reason for 10 codes instead of five. Not sure why this is.
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Old 02-27-2010, 07:09 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Crashmaster View Post
Sorry for the long delay in my response, stressful work week.

There are 10 codes that have been triggered: 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419. All of these codes show up twice; the reason for 10 codes instead of five. Not sure why this is.

With those codes, it definitely isn't the gas cap.

When you had the canister off, did you try applying power to the pump and to the canister vent valve to see if both work or not?
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Old 02-27-2010, 07:20 PM   #10
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Better yet, check the ETCS fuse.
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:43 PM   #11
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When i get to work on monday ill check for TSBs for those codes and see if anything pops up. Seems like a lot of codes.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:02 PM   #12
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When i get to work on monday ill check for TSBs for those codes and see if anything pops up. Seems like a lot of codes.
Good Call on there being a TSB:

TSB T-EG048-07 (M.I.L. "ON" DTC P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, & P2419)
Models: ’07 Yaris Liftback

Some 2007 model year Yaris Liftback vehicles may exhibit M.I.L. “ON” with DTCs P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419 stored. The fuel tank filler pipe cover holder has been improved to prevent water intrusion into the Key Off EVAP pump module.

1. Using TIS techstream, check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
If DTCs P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419 are ALL present, refer to the
Technical Information System (TIS), 2007 model year Yaris Repair Manual,
Engine/Hybrid System – Engine Control – “1NZ–FE Engine Control System: SFI
System: P043E: Evaporative Emission System Reference Orifice Clog Up”.

2. Replace the charcoal canister, charcoal canister filter, fuel tank filler pipe cover, and the fuel tank filler pipe cover holder if water IS or WAS present in the EVAP system.

3. Using TIS techstream, clear all DTCs.

4. Perform the Automatic EVAP System Check and verify that NO pending DTCs set.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:49 PM   #13
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We had a 05 Corolla it had the same codes..We replaced the canister codes went away..About 2 weeks later they came back..Replaced the canister again thinking may have been bad..Codes where gone two weeks later codes came back..End up being ECU.The canister was $300 the ECU was $900.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:54 AM   #14
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CTScott's last post sure seems to sum it up. When I had the charcoal canister filter off, there was water in the pump module. I figured that it was just condensation and blew all of the water out. Replacing the charcoal canister, charcoal canister filter, fuel tank filler pipe cover, and the fuel tank filler pipe cover holder will cost well over $1000 bucks, approximately 8% of what I paid for the car 28 months ago. To me it just isn't worth the cost. Plus after the wife getting laid off, I can't bring on any more bills.

One last question, if I just leave it that way, are there any performance/fuel economy issues? If not, I'll just look at the idiot like and just get used to it being illuminated.

Thanks for everyone's help on this.
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Old 02-28-2010, 09:57 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Crashmaster View Post
CTScott's last post sure seems to sum it up. When I had the charcoal canister filter off, there was water in the pump module. I figured that it was just condensation and blew all of the water out. Replacing the charcoal canister, charcoal canister filter, fuel tank filler pipe cover, and the fuel tank filler pipe cover holder will cost well over $1000 bucks, approximately 8% of what I paid for the car 28 months ago. To me it just isn't worth the cost. Plus after the wife getting laid off, I can't bring on any more bills.

One last question, if I just leave it that way, are there any performance/fuel economy issues? If not, I'll just look at the idiot like and just get used to it being illuminated.

Thanks for everyone's help on this.
I don't believe it will affect anything, other than passing inspection (if your state does them) and constantly having the light on. You can try junkyards to find one. If you do so, only grab one from an 08 or newer, based on that TSB.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:16 PM   #16
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I don't believe it will affect anything, other than passing inspection (if your state does them) and constantly having the light on. You can try junkyards to find one. If you do so, only grab one from an 08 or newer, based on that TSB.
I have heard the same thing, but wasn't sure. I can clear the codes right before inspection and it should be OK. Virginia doesn't have emissions, thank God. I'll keep cruising the junk yards. Thanks again.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:16 PM   #17
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One last thing, my fuel economy doesn't appear to be effected by this either.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:27 PM   #18
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One last thing, my fuel economy doesn't appear to be effected by this either.
I wouldn't think it would. This system is purely responsible for keeping the fumes from escaping into the air. The pump is just a diagnostic tool that the car uses to make sure that the system is airtight. Theoretically yours is still airtight, but the testing mechanism has failed.

Looking at the TSB, there is a replacement Fuel Tank Filler Pipe Cover that is supposed to seal better. You may want to also see if you can grab that from on 08, or if you can talk you dealer into giving it to you. If you want a copy of the TSB, it is posted in a stickied thread in the DIY section of the forum.


TSB.jpg
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