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Old 08-18-2018, 01:30 PM   #109
tmontague
 
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small update

After my last track session with Ron I had a new found motivation to stick with the Yaris chassis for the near future. He was posting a 1:26 in his first gen which is good enough to beat the typical "track day bro" in an STI or BRZ at TMP - our local track. My plan wasn't to beat a certain car, its always been to become as fast as a driver as I can while having fun and testing new things I modify or add to the car to make it faster. That said, being competitive at track days with cars that cost way more or people assume to be faster keeps the sessions fun and exciting. It also never gets old to pass STI's, WRX's, BRZ/FRS's etc while they look on with a dropped jaw at the Yaris going by.

I also refuse to do another track day with my Hawk HPS's - the brake fade is real and hitting corner 2 where the brakes sometimes do nothing and sometimes work half as good as they should is just stupid dangerous. I already ordered and picked up some Carbotech XP10's and I resurfaced both sets of my rotors with a rotor resurfacing tool that you install on a drill - not as good as a proper machine but worked good enough for what I need it for. I will daily in my HPS's and swap out rotors and pads the night before going to the track. I also picked up an older Sparco Sprint seat (first gen?) from Ron and am currently waiting on my seat base before I can install it in my car.

This will help me get back to my 1:30 time hopefully but on my current past worn tires I'm not holding my breath. Next season I'll have some new 100 tw rubber and I'll be aiming for a 1:27. If I'm fortunate enough to have a long tube header on my car by then, then even better as the extra 10-15whp definitely won't hurt.

The biggest limitation right now is the fact that this car is my daily and houses 1 (soon to be 2) car seats. I have a few extra hundred pounds sitting in my car waiting to be stripped out. It's looking like my family and I will be moving to a larger house a year or so from now and our next place will for sure have a garage. This will allow me to pick up a beater Yaris LB A/T. I can then keep my sedan in track mode and not have to swap out brake pads and what not every couple weeks. I can then strip it out and lose a bunch of weight in it.

Over a couple years I'd like to do a diy splitter as well as cams and a standalone ecu. I think the 2zr can realistically and conservatively achieve 150whp on pump gas and retain its reliability. This would make a pretty fast sleeper and should be able to post up consistent 1:25's at TMP.

I'll be back at the track on the 7th of September and hopefully I'll have the Sparco seat installed by then. I'll post back with how I find the brake pads.
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:08 AM   #110
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...
The biggest limitation right now is the fact that this car is my daily and houses 1 (soon to be 2) car seats.
...
Whoa, whoa.. just sneak that in 'eh?! New bun in the oven? Congrats, man.

Glad to hear you're going to keep the Yaris for a bit longer. Looking forward to see what you find for upgrades for the 2ZR - Monkey Wrench Racing has goodies, but the more wild you want to go the less there seems to be for support; at least so far as I've found from the 'armchair upgrade seat', lol.

Enjoying following the progression of the car over the past while, you've been doing an awesome job with it. Makes a good go-to for motivation..

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Old 08-20-2018, 10:42 AM   #111
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Whoa, whoa.. just sneak that in 'eh?! New bun in the oven? Congrats, man.

Glad to hear you're going to keep the Yaris for a bit longer. Looking forward to see what you find for upgrades for the 2ZR - Monkey Wrench Racing has goodies, but the more wild you want to go the less there seems to be for support; at least so far as I've found from the 'armchair upgrade seat', lol.

Enjoying following the progression of the car over the past while, you've been doing an awesome job with it. Makes a good go-to for motivation..

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Old 08-20-2018, 12:40 PM   #112
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thanks guys, it's definitely an exciting time for us and so far I've been having a blast teaching my 21 month old how to wrench cars and do reno's on a house. Currently his favorite activity is going through my tool box and giving me every screwdriver I possibly own. The next one is a girl so it will be fun to see them interact with one another.

MWR has a fair amount of 2zr fun bits that I would like to use but it seems to make sense to pair it up with a standalone ecu or else the gains would be negligible (ie: cams). I have always wanted to build a motor up and the parts that MWR have would make that pretty fun. Knife edged crankshaft, stiffer valve springs to raise the rev limiter up. I am confident that with a build like that with a heightened rev limiter the 2zr could be capable of fairly easily getting >150 whp on pump gas.

The budget limits this for now but it would be a great way to build an engine and learn my way around that.

I forgot to mention in my above update that I swapped out the Cusco trans fluid for some Amsoil MTG. The Cusco had some track days on it and with clutch plates the fluid suspends the wear bits so you don't want to run it too long. I didn't go with the Cusco due to the cost of it and I have ran the Amsoil before and was happy with the price and performance. My LSD was chattering like crazy so I went out and bought some CRC lsd fiction modifier and slowly added in a couple quarts at a time. I finally found the sweet spot at around 4.5-5 ounces. keep in mind I over fill my trans a bit and I have around 300-400mls extra in there (fill it while the front is jacked up).

Amsoil also has a friction modifier but I couldn't easily obtain it and I didn't want to wait for shipping so I went with what I could fine around here. It is now fairly quiet how it originally was but still locks as it should.
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Old 08-22-2018, 01:47 AM   #113
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After my last track session with Ron I had a new found motivation to stick with the Yaris chassis for the near future. He was posting a 1:26 in his first gen which is good enough to beat the typical "track day bro" in an STI or BRZ at TMP - our local track. My plan wasn't to beat a certain car, its always been to become as fast as a driver as I can while having fun and testing new things I modify or add to the car to make it faster. That said, being competitive at track days with cars that cost way more or people assume to be faster keeps the sessions fun and exciting. It also never gets old to pass STI's, WRX's, BRZ/FRS's etc while they look on with a dropped jaw at the Yaris going by.
I feel the same way, but more along the lines of trying to catch up to the autox times all the other cars are posting while I try to improve my yaris/driver skills along the way.
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Old 08-22-2018, 11:33 PM   #114
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You can do it, to both things. even under stock powered 1nz's the car will teach you how to momentum drive, and its rather easy to work on and with.
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Old 09-08-2018, 04:23 PM   #115
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2nd last track day of the season

Headed out to TMP last night and unfortunately my seat bracket had not come in yet (should be here Monday) so I was stuck using oem seats and flying around the cabin. I was able to get used to my track pads (Carbotech xp10's) for the first time and all I can say is wow. I swapped out rotors and pads the morning of and bedded them in before I left for the track - I have a dedicated set of rotors for these pads.

It's a different animal when you have track pads than street pads and it is much safer. I likely still have a second to shave off each lap just in braking but I need to build up the balls to get to that point. It's amazing how late I can brake now and how much speed scrubs off in such a short amount of time. It would fully kick in the abs after the straightaways and I'd have to manage the car from wiggling when the tires locked up.

I did about 140km's yesterday with 4 session of about 40 minutes and I never once experienced brake fade. They were always consistent and the pads didn't wear down much at all. I ended up going through 3/4 of a tank of gas which was more than usual so that says a lot for how much driving I did. I also broke the weld on my muffler and it ended up melting my rear bumper. I removed the muffler for now and the sound is awesome but much too loud to daily in.

My fastest lap was a 1:30:22 and the lap after that I was on par for 30secs faster with 1 corner to go but I caught traffic and had to slow down. I realistically would have cracked the 1:30's by a bit but after the 4th session I packed it in as I was starting to feel tired. Oddly enough this was one of the first track sessions where I was becoming faster each time out. Likely due to getting more and more comfortable with a track pads. The tires are still my largest limiter and I cannot corner nearly as fast as I should. It will be interesting next season how much time I will shave off with new rubber and faster cornering speeds.

I will be out again in 2 weeks as my wife's due date for baby #2 is coming up soon in about 4 weeks so once the baby is here it will be it for my track days this year. I will at least have one session to try out the Sparco seat, I was flying around everywhere in the tight twisty corner yesterday - especially during the few back to back corners where I now no longer hit the brakes.

I had another handful of people come up to me and ask about the car and how long I've been driving. There was a huge Subie group out in their WRX's that was really interested in the car which was pretty neat. A few of them thought my car was s/c and were surprised to hear it was an NA 2zr. In a sea of Mustangs and WRX's people apparently love seeing a Yaris rip around the corners at the limit. There is a large radius turn where people sit and watch behind a big concrete median and I noticed that many of the big V8 cars out there weren't pushing nearly as hard at the corner but instead relying on the big engines to pull them fast into the straight out of the corner. They typically cornered at about 60km/h. When I got more comfortable with the corner I was able to get up to about 78km/h with the tires screaming. People apparently loved watching that. I was also able to get the point by multiple times from a Celica GT-S (haven't seen one of those around here for years)

Like I said before, driving a slow car fast is much more rewarding than a fast car slow. I'm hoping to break the 1:30 next time out and then that will be it for me this year. Time to save up for a long tube header, new gauges and new 100tw tires.
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:57 AM   #116
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Time for a dash cam.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:24 PM   #117
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:00 AM   #118
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Surprised you didn't get any brake fade running the factory lines. Usually the fluid heats up and the lines start to give a little, no?
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:42 PM   #119
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Zero fade even after 40 minutes of hard laps. You should never experience fading with a proper pad as long as you are in the appropriate heat ranges. I experienced fade before due to using a street pad and getting the temps well above its range.

I currently have ss front brake lines but even with OEM lines no grade should be felt with proper pads. I bleed my brakes every 3 track events so the fluid is fresh and is a mild high performance dot 3 fluid but not an expensive race fluid.

As long as you don't boil brake fluid - which is hard to do in a light car if you keep the fluid fresh - you won't experience a loss in braking.

After using these pads in an now say that upgrading to larger brakes are pointless for performance in this car. As other have stated pads are all you need. I could lock up the tires (w/ abs kicking in) when I'd hit the brakes into a sharp corner after a long straightaway. Thus was on r compounds tires as well although they are heat cycled out
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Old 09-11-2018, 12:57 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
In a sea of Mustangs and WRX's people apparently love seeing a Yaris rip around the corners at the limit. There is a large radius turn where people sit and watch behind a big concrete median and I noticed that many of the big V8 cars out there weren't pushing nearly as hard at the corner but instead relying on the big engines to pull them fast into the straight out of the corner. They typically cornered at about 60km/h. When I got more comfortable with the corner I was able to get up to about 78km/h with the tires screaming. People apparently loved watching that. I was also able to get the point by multiple times from a Celica GT-S (haven't seen one of those around here for years)

Like I said before, driving a slow car fast is much more rewarding than a fast car slow. I'm hoping to break the 1:30 next time out and then that will be it for me this year. Time to save up for a long tube header, new gauges and new 100tw tires.
So much this.

I was at Grattan speedway on Labor day for an almost-full-course autox. Came in 4th of 6 in HS with the Echo (behind a pair of Fiesta STs and a Civic DX) but beat a full sized sedan by a second and a half. He clearly had me on the straights, but I didn't have to lift in the sweepers. Momentum cars FtW!
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Old 09-11-2018, 02:01 PM   #121
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:41 PM   #122
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last session of the year

Although this thread originally started as my 2zr build thread to help others who plan on this in the future - it has now become more of a thread about my musings in regards to tracking my daily driven and 2zr swapped car. My hope is that this helps anyone else down the road who has some questions regarding tracking there car and my posts guide them on making the best choices for their car. I was helped by many others in the past who posted about their experiences on the track so I'm hoping to do the same.

I headed out to TMP yesterday evening and got even more familiar with my new Carbotech xp10 pads. I was able to brake slightly later as felt more and more confident. I ended up finally breaking 1:30 and ended up with a fastest lap of 1:29:91. My goal at the start of the season was to break 1:30 so i'm happy with how it all went. I also realized that some of my major snap oversteer with the tires was actually too high of cold temps. I originally had it set up with 32f/29R and last night worked it down to 30.5/28 and noticed that the tires felt much more stable and the over steer limit was much improved. The frotn tires after the session were the cleanest I have ever seen and I'm finally getting some proper outside shoulder wear. The rears still need to drop a bit in pressure to have adequate wear.

This was the last session of the year for me as my wife is about a week or two away from popping out baby #2. I also plan on having new rubber on the car for next season. Leaning towards toyo r888r's which iirc are a 100tw tire. Ron had good things to say about them as have others I have spoken with. They seem to be very forgiving at their limit which is what my current R1's lack and I need a forgiving tire to improve pushing my limit as a driver.

Car ran excellent, no more coolant loss every since I switched back to the oem rad cap. It was a stupid hot day until the sun dropped and coolant peaked up to 234F. Notg an issue but still pretty high. I want to look into getting a dual core rad down the road but there are no bolt in options that I'm aware of for a 2nd gen yaris I'll probably have to wait until this becomes a track only car and I do an a/c delete then I'll have to have a universal one put in with the help of a fab shop.

Oil pressure stayed around 45psi give or take when the rpm's were close to redline. I'm currently running Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 (oem spec is 0w20) and when this car is only track driven the plan is to go to pennzoil UP 5w40. My winter oil is a mobil 1 0w30 and it works fine. I will be doing a full UOA on this oil when I drain it before the winter. I am current at 13,500km and about 700-900 km's of that is heavy track use. I use toyota oem filters changed at 8k km's. I am interested to see how well the oil held up and will post my results.

Currently my glowshift oil temp gauge has a broken wire and it's pinged at full hot. I plan on running AEM digital gauges on the A oillar for next season. Glowshift did the trick but are cheap, noisey, not all that accurate and the wiring makes for a headache compared to the loom that come with the AEM gauges.

This was the first time I got to experience a racing seat at the track. Huge difference and definitely a worthy upgrade albeit not a cheap one when you factor in seat brackets/rails. I am now sitting lower and the steering wheel is a bit too far away from my ideal driving position (which I'll address later with an aftermarket wheel) but damn I wasn't thrown around one bit. During the tight 3 back to back moderate speed corners where I would be bucked around like crazy before, I never once had to worry about my left foot placement to brace myself. I was able to bit all of my concern and energy into driving which made a huge difference.

highlight of last night was having a c7 z06 come up behind me on the first straight away before turn 1. I was going to do my cool down lap but when I saw him behind me I figure why not go for another hot lap and see how long I can hold him of. The tires were sticky and I was feeling good. He just caught me before turn one and I braked late and hit the turn a bit more ballsy then normal. I realized I gapped him a bit and then he caught me before turn 2. I gapped him a bit after taking turn 2 at ther absolute limit of the tires (aprox 95km/h) then headed into the back to back tight moderate speeds turns. With no straightaways to catch me I gapped him some more and by the time I was at the last corner onto the last straightaway he was at least 4 seconds behind me. Turned out this was my PB lap! Although this clearly wasn't a very good driver, he wasn't being shy on the corners and was pushing pretty hard.

The main issue I've come across tracking a yaris is that people don't give you the point by because they think you are slow since it's a Yaris, even when you are on their ass the whole lap. I had a miata infront of me (not a great driver) that I clearly was much faster than and was on his ass and in all 4 passing zones he never pointed me by. Technically you are not supposed to pass unless signalled but he blew a corner too wide so I took the inside on him. Later in the paddocks when I was chatting to him he said "Man you are fast with that thing, I couldn't believe it when I looked in my rear view mirror and saw a Yaris, I was like no way it's faster than me"

I used to use permatex regular synthetic brake grease and noticed after each track session is became very dry and heavy and had to be replaced. I looked at the specs and it's only good to around 500F. As a side I also used the red stuff Hawk sends with their pads - it is only good for greasing up the metal contacts on the pad backing plate. Do not use it on sliders it is much too thick and gums up after a track session. I decided to go with the expensive purple permatex synthetic ceramic grease. After yesterdays 140km worth of 5 session the grease was still as smooth as when I applied it. No issues what so ever and I highly recommend this brake grease to anyone who tracks their car - well worth the money.

When putting my street pads back on the car today I noticed that my passenger side endlink that came with my BC coil overs is toast. The top joint is loose to the point you can wiggle it and make it clunk with your hand. These are less than 5 months old. I will be contacting BC for warranty issue but I'm not sure if they count this as a wear item. I went online and noticed that they only charge $17.50 CAD for new ones! that is stupid cheap and i'm happy to see that as I can pick up a few to have on hand as needed.

I also found out that my drivers side CV axle (the aftermarket shorter Tercel one) I installed early this year has a fair amount of play in the inner joint. My original oem passenger side one is still rock solid. The drivers side axle has a 1 years warranty so I'll be getting a replacement for that. Aftermarket axles are cheap in price but also cheap in quality. I'll see how many more aftermarket ones I have to go through but I may have to see if I can get that axle in an OEM reman'd version. There are companies that make them and offer lifetime warranty and they tend to be about half the price of oem ones.

The plan for the this winter as I save up some cash to make my car faster is to buy/find a long tube header, aem gauges, aftermarket steering wheel with a 3" dish to bring it closer to me with my new seat, extra xp10 brake pads as well as some proper higher performance rear pads and 100tw semi slick tires.

I'll also be trying out some goodrich brake lines as the current stoptech SS ones I have are bent very sharply due to the length/design and they are cracked in so a lot fo different places. They still function fine but I don't trust them past about a year of hard use.

This is all for now, next year I'll be looking to make a new PB of a sub 1:27, we will see how that goes.
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Old 09-23-2018, 11:58 PM   #123
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" I was like no way it's faster than me"
I got that alot in STS racing the car down here.

they where like "and how much power does it have?" the only guys I couldnt stab is a fully prepped EF hatchback and the driver and his co-driver which also have years more experience than I have. oh and my roomate who has the balls to the walls approach with his mazda 2
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:31 AM   #124
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:38 PM   #125
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Some updates heading into the new year

I've been a little MIA lately, my daughter is now 5 weeks old and my son almost 2. Needless to say my focus has been on my family and doing as much as possible with them. My son however is obsessed with my "race car" and loves helping me wrench when ever he can. Our latest project was installing new headlights. He banged a wrench around the bumper, kept looking under the car and handing me new tools - it was a great time.

I ended up getting rid of my HID projectors. The lenses were in need of serious work as the Clear protectant I used started to crack off after a few years. I was tired of having issues and having to troubleshoot them (latest one was one of the halo's flickering and not working - issue with inner soldering work when they were manufactured). I also hated having an engine bay full of wires.

The light output was great in the city but sub par on rural roads and high beams were useless. I liked the style points they gave, but they looked weathered. It would have taken a lot of effort to sand them all down again and I didn't want the trouble of having to open them back up again and then re seal only to fix the halo drl. I don't like how the oem headlights look on a dark car with them being silver. This was one of the main reasons for doing the retrofit, I painted the shrouds black so they matched better with the body color of the car.

However, I found oem type headlights on ebay (and Amazon) for $100 USD shipped freeto my US PO box that had a black shroud. The only silver parts was the reflectors for the main headlights. For that price and their good looks there was no way I was passing that up. The headlights fit perfectly and they look awesome. I opted for some Silvannia extra vision headlight bulbs as they seem to be the best balance of cost, longevity and performance. I'm not a fan of the blue tinted lights as they reduce lumens and leads to the need to overdrive the filament to create the same amount of light. I am beyond pleased with these as they fit excellent and make the car look much better overall with their brand new lenses. I ceramic coated them and will do so often so they should last a while. I now have a clean engine bay except for the one relay I have for my dual horn set up.







I recently installed some AEM x series gauges (oil temp and pressure) and have a 3rd pod on my a pillar for an AFR sensor down the road. I used an a pillar pod from ebay that apparently fits a yaris. It does not and even if it did there is no way to mount it to the a pillar. I just trimmed up and used self tapping screws to screw it into the facotry a pillar. Looks clean and works well.

I am impressed with the gauges, much better build quality then glowshift. They are prices somewhat reasonably considering the quality you get. They works well and the install is fairly simple, at least compared to the glowshift garbage I had. I did have one issue with them as the oil temps sensor connectors are not snug like the pressure sensors are. If I wiggle the sensor I can get the gauge to read "sens" which means the connection is disrupted. There should be no play int he connectors. I have been emailing AEM and they sent me a new harness to try. I will be swapping that connector and seeing if it fixes the issue. The issue could be the sensor side connector so I have to try this first.

The harness they sent me have a completely uncrimped ground wire pin. Not very impressed. That said, AEM has been in constant communication with me and has always responded quickly and was very apologetic. They didn;t make me uninstall the gauge and resend it all back like they originally wanted me to after I told them how much extra cost and time that would be to me. I have temporarily shimmed the sensor snug with a thin piece of plastic and it has been working perfectly. This will work until I get under the car again to test the new connector.

All in all I would buy future AEM products as their communication has been top notch.

I am currently waiting for my new steering wheel and quick release to arrive. It's a 3" deep dish wheel so it should fix my seat position issue I am currently having with my race seat and oem wheel. I'll post a brief review about that once I've installed it.

I will be ordering some Nankang AR-1's or Toyo r888r's for next season as well as upgrading my rear brake pads to something that can handle track temps. Other than that, the only other thing I'm hoping to get done for next year is have a custom long tube header built. Due to RPM no longer making their long tube header for a really good price, I'l be stuck having a local fabrication shop do the work for boatloads more then it would have cost for rpm's unit.

I'm hoping to have the cash this winter to have it done for next season, but this is the one thing that may have to wait until the season after. It would really complete the factory tuned engine and get me close to 150 whp. We'll see if it happens but I'm crossing my fingers.

I also plan on stripping out some of the car this summer. I won't be removing the a/c or any seats until i have another daily driver, but I'll be removing some panels in the rear, potentially the speakers and what ever else I think would be helpful. I'll be picking Tom's brain on this one. Oh, and lastly I am hoping to have a battery reloaction done over the winter. It isn't too expensive and would make for a fun project. It will help with the balance of the car but it will also free up some space in the engine bay every time I pressure bleed my brake or need to access the transmission mount.
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:14 AM   #126
ArmstrongRacing
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Drives: That Scrappy 2zrVios
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego
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Awesome looking car man, I'm really jealous you get to daily drive it.

Speaking of daily driving, since you have the 4.3FD you can buy just a taller 5th gear for better mpg/lower rpm. Email this guy and ask for the .725 5th gearset from a 03-09 Corolla; mmerlimm@teleport.com

When you are ready I can send you the tools, just return them when you're done.
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