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Old 06-04-2015, 06:43 AM   #1
Rednaz
 
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Redtop BEAMS Conversion

I've recently found a company in South Africa that can do the BEAMS conversion for R33 000 (that's roughly $3300). It includes: Engine,Gearbox with mountings, Exhaust Downpipe, Cooling System,Gauges,Dicktator Management and Mapping...but before get my finances in order to do it, I'd like to know:
*What other mods should I do then?
(I'm currently planning to upgrade to Braided Brake Lines and EBC Yellow Brake Pads, Slotted and Drilled Rotors and Performance Brake Fluid for braking power. I currently have 35mm drop springs with 15 inch rims and a front UR Strut Bar but would like to add BC Coilovers and UR Rear sway bar).

If you guys have any other comments/suggestions, please let me know.

TIA
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:14 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rednaz View Post
If you guys have any other comments/suggestions, please let me know.
My only comment, GET IT DONE!. This is definitely something new and exciting in a community where nothing really different has been done in a very long time.
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:43 AM   #3
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Always skeptical when I see these posts.. I hope you go through with it. Like WeeYari said, we don't see much variety with these cars.

That is one hell of a price for a swap like that including parts. You are looking about that much for a turbo if you do all the labor. Supercharger alone cost that much too..
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rednaz View Post
I've recently found a company in South Africa that can do the BEAMS conversion for R33 000 (that's roughly $3300). It includes: Engine,Gearbox with mountings, Exhaust Downpipe, Cooling System,Gauges,Dicktator Management and Mapping...but before get my finances in order to do it, I'd like to know:
*What other mods should I do then?
(I'm currently planning to upgrade to Braided Brake Lines and EBC Yellow Brake Pads, Slotted and Drilled Rotors and Performance Brake Fluid for braking power. I currently have 35mm drop springs with 15 inch rims and a front UR Strut Bar but would like to add BC Coilovers and UR Rear sway bar).

If you guys have any other comments/suggestions, please let me know.

TIA
Sounds like a great swap, legendary engine.

Slotted and drilled rotors are bling, they will crack, and do nothing to improving braking. Stick with OE style rotors. Spend the money on suspension instead.
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Old 06-04-2015, 02:12 PM   #5
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+1 ^^^
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Old 06-04-2015, 02:56 PM   #6
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Right now, I say focus your money and efforts on the Redtop and only the Redtop. Everything else is just icing and can wait for your bank account to recover.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
My only comment, GET IT DONE!. This is definitely something new and exciting in a community where nothing really different has been done in a very long time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuHfVn_cfHU
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:48 PM   #8
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Thanks guys for the feedback and advice! Will keep you posted on this!!
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:26 PM   #9
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Guys, a concern that someone told me today is that...my chassis might not be able to handle all the power..usually chassis is doublestitch to handle the strain that the motor puts on the body.
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:30 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Rednaz View Post
Guys, a concern that someone told me today is that...my chassis might not be able to handle all the power..usually chassis is doublestitch to handle the strain that the motor puts on the body.
How much power are we actually talking about being achieved with this conversion?
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:37 PM   #11
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I had no idea what a BEAMS redtop was, so this is what I came across in research.


BEAMS cost effective guide


About 200+ hp according to that site.
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Old 07-19-2015, 01:13 AM   #12
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How do you mean the chassis handling power? I was running 250 without upgraded mounts or an engine tq damper. The motor does move a lot. I am in the process of upgrading the dogbone to the TRD mount and am installing an engine damper I purchased. This will help protect the cv shafts. Plenty of fuya have run up to 270 or so whp without an issue.

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Old 07-20-2015, 06:08 AM   #13
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@Weeyari: well stats show the engine puts out 210kw = Roughly 280bhp - (30% power loss from crank to wheels) so we talking about roughly 200whp.
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:23 AM   #14
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@fnkngrv: I know it may sound abit like a noob question but I shared my conversion idea with my friends and that's the only objection they had as to why I shouldn't do the conversion but then again, cali yari was running 357whp and I don't recall him doing anything crazy to the chassis?
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:00 AM   #15
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I don't think anybody who adds a lot of power does anything to the chassis.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:59 PM   #16
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Like I'm saying guys, I'm just getting my facts in order..
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:24 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Rednaz View Post
@fnkngrv: ... cali yari was running 357whp and I don't recall him doing anything crazy to the chassis?
I believe he had TRD mounts, and a roll bar with cross bracing in the rear. I'm sure you can google and find plenty of pics of his car. But no, nothing too crazy with his chassis. AND he autoX'd it, as well as road raced it.
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:26 PM   #18
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Guys..a concern I have is braking power. What brake setup can I run to retain my 15 inch rims but still have decent stopping power for the BEAMS?
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