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Old 08-30-2015, 10:57 PM   #19
IllusionX
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Synthetic oil is NOT thinner! Viscosity remain the same (almost, since they cannot be exactly identical) between the 2 types of oil!

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Old 08-31-2015, 06:00 AM   #20
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Synthetic oil is NOT thinner! Viscosity remain the same (almost, since they cannot be exactly identical) between the 2 types of oil!

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Better do some research. It is thinner when hot and oil consumption goes UP in older engines compared to regular oil. This used to be on the label when synthetic oil came out.

Not only that if you have oil leaks like an older engine is likely to develop it leaks out faster too.
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:45 PM   #21
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Loosing oil

Hello,

Though old thread, but I have noticed am loosing oil since I started using synthetic oil and Fram filters. My millage is about 130k, no sign of leakage and car runs well could the change to synthetic be the problem or Fram filters?

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Old 01-06-2019, 05:33 PM   #22
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Subthetic oil tends to leak/burn more in an old engine as it is thinner at cold temps and flows better into small spaces even if viscosity is identical. If you want the synthetic oil for cold starts then go with a 0w40 instead of a 0w30. Based on your location I dint think your concern is cold start so just switch back to a conventional oil or go to a thicker viscosity
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Old 01-21-2019, 03:49 PM   #23
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Subthetic oil tends to leak/burn more in an old engine as it is thinner at cold temps and flows better into small spaces even if viscosity is identical. If you want the synthetic oil for cold starts then go with a 0w40 instead of a 0w30. Based on your location I dint think your concern is cold start so just switch back to a conventional oil or go to a thicker viscosity
Yeah I have no issue with cold start; lowest temperature here is 20C and that is occasional (it's usually above 30C), so what viscosity do you recommend I go for? By the way I was using 20w50 before but noticed performance improvement since I switched to synthetic 5w30 except that I loose oil. So what viscosity of conventional or synthetic should I switch to without loosing much performance and fuel economy?
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:03 PM   #24
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5w30 should be fine, but there is no way of really knowing if you exceed factory specs without knowing oil temp and/or pressure. None of which is available without an aftermarket gauge.

The only way going to a heavier weight oil makes sense is if you are operating above 212F oil temps, or if you want to reduce oil consumption and you notice it helps. You could try a 10w30 as they are slightly thicker than a 5w30 and potentially may reduce oil consumption. The difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 isn't very big however as they both have to fall into the same viscosity spectrum at 100C. Most 10w30's are a big thicker at 150C due to a higher HTHS rating but like I said, it may not be noticeable enough for consumption issues.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:51 PM   #25
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5w30 should be fine, but there is no way of really knowing if you exceed factory specs without knowing oil temp and/or pressure. None of which is available without an aftermarket gauge.

The only way going to a heavier weight oil makes sense is if you are operating above 212F oil temps, or if you want to reduce oil consumption and you notice it helps. You could try a 10w30 as they are slightly thicker than a 5w30 and potentially may reduce oil consumption. The difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 isn't very big however as they both have to fall into the same viscosity spectrum at 100C. Most 10w30's are a big thicker at 150C due to a higher HTHS rating but like I said, it may not be noticeable enough for consumption issues.
My oil will be due for a change in 2 weeks after adding the last litre of synthetic. I have tried looking for a conventional 5w30 or 10w30 with no luck. Am wondering if a semi-synthetic of 5w30 will not burn. Any thought?
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:58 PM   #26
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My oil will be due for a change in 2 weeks after adding the last litre of synthetic. I have tried looking for a conventional 5w30 or 10w30 with no luck. Am wondering if a semi-synthetic of 5w30 will not burn. Any thought?
What does the engine refill cap say?

Typically, oil weight tend to be quite heavy in tropical countries..

What oil is available in your country?

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Old 03-25-2019, 02:19 AM   #27
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My oil will be due for a change in 2 weeks after adding the last litre of synthetic. I have tried looking for a conventional 5w30 or 10w30 with no luck. Am wondering if a semi-synthetic of 5w30 will not burn. Any thought?
Short answer is no, oil burning is a symptom of engine wear (most likely worn piston rings). You can try to minimize the running by running a thick oil like 20w50 but the downside in somewhat lower fuel economy. Maybe look for a non synthetic 15W40 or 10W40.
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:58 AM   #28
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What does the engine refill cap say?

Typically, oil weight tend to be quite heavy in tropical countries..

What oil is available in your country?

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5w30, 0w20, 0w40 all synthetic and semi-syn
Then we have 20w50 conventional, am told using this causes sludge and reduces engine performance. It's 5w30 on the engine cap and the car is USA spec
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:10 PM   #29
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When the engine is up to temperature in Adak, Alaska or Phoenix, Arizona the oil is 250F.
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:23 PM   #30
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When the engine is up to temperature in Adak, Alaska or Phoenix, Arizona the oil is 250F.
I can tell you based off of my aem gauges (oil temp and pressure as well as coolant gauge) that this is not the case.

Middle of summer around here oil sits around 220F, in the spring when temps are not as extreme, the oil sits at 210F and during the middle of winter it sits around 180F. These temps are all while.driving on the highway for longer than 30 mins not in traffic, needless to say the engine is well up to temps
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:35 PM   #31
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Thermostat opening versus temperature curve.

Yes. Higher ambient gives higher coolant and oil temperature. Thermostats, or most thermostats, don't flip from full closed to full open at one temperature. In cold winter, a temperature gets maintained with little coolant flow. So the thermostat isn't very far open. In sweltering heat, the temp may not stabilize until the thermostat is nearly open. And more open takes a higher temperature. The thermostat has an opening versus temperature curve.

And coolant doesn't cool some places so well. The oil pan can be getting radiation and conduction from sub freezing pavement/air or very hot asphalt and the air it heats.
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:27 PM   #32
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Yes. Higher ambient gives higher coolant and oil temperature. Thermostats, or most thermostats, don't flip from full closed to full open at one temperature. In cold winter, a temperature gets maintained with little coolant flow. So the thermostat isn't very far open. In sweltering heat, the temp may not stabilize until the thermostat is nearly open. And more open takes a higher temperature. The thermostat has an opening versus temperature curve.

And coolant doesn't cool some places so well. The oil pan can be getting radiation and conduction from sub freezing pavement/air or very hot asphalt and the air it heats.
Very much so. In the middle of winter the oil will not go above 180F (give or take a few degrees) unless in a high.load condition. The convection from the oil lan and cold air is much too great to keep the oil at summer operating temps.

On the flip side, in my 2zr with 5w30 full syn oil (factory fill is 0w20) and coolant temps reaching 230F, the oil climbs to just above 280F and stays there until a cool down lap. That is at full WOT and close to redline rpm's though.
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Old 03-27-2019, 08:42 AM   #33
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Royal Purple 5w30 for the entire life of the car so far... I'm at 358k miles with no leaks or engine issues thus far!
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:19 AM   #34
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Royal Purple 5w30 for the entire life of the car so far... I'm at 358k miles with no leaks or engine issues thus far!
That's cool.

I've started with a syn oil change at the dealer. (Mobil1) after that I've used RP many years with 6000km intervals. RP became hard to come by, or prices in local shops are way too high.

Then I've used Prolabs oil for a while. They are a local company but with time, I've lost contact with the person who could get it for me.

In recent years, I've switched to Amsoil.

Today, I noticed my rear bumper being a little black. Makes me wonder if my engine is taking a little oil. I did not get a full gallon of oil out on my last drain. I'm also abusing the engine a little as well, since it doesn't get many chances to fully warm up before I arrive to destination for the past 10years.

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Old 03-27-2019, 07:20 PM   #35
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Oh for God sake not another oil post! Make it stop! Listen, it's a little generic rusted out old sh1t box of a car. Put whatever oil you have into it and it will run for 400K miles. I mean seriously, if you're are using royal purple every 3k miles in your Yaris, you're flushing money down the toilet. There isn't s Rolls Merlin under the hood. If its liquid, made out of something with lubricity and has a flash point over 300F, dump it in and drive. At the end of the day who gives a f@ck?

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Old 03-27-2019, 07:28 PM   #36
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Oh for God sake not another oil post! Make it stop! It's a little generic rusted out old shit box car. Put whatever oil you have into it and it will run for 400K miles.
This is a post from 2015 actually.

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