Spring strut replacement

[tmontague]

I'm getting everything lined up to replace my front and rear struts in a month or so when classes are done for the summer. My Yaris is leaning more than it should and it's riding rough and a little noisy over bumps (no bouncing).

My plan is to get some Monroe struts and front mounts as the salt every winter I'm sure takes it toll on the bearings. I plan on reusing the current coils unless they're damaged. I likely won't be buying the quick-struts as they will run me an extra $100. I'll just rent a spring compressor and take the extra time (I have air tools).

My Q is what else should I be looking at replacing other than the strut mounts? I plan on greasing (or anti-seize?) on the strut bolts when re-installing everything since the salt is nasty around here.

Any surprises you guys have found when doing this? If one has air tools and plans off taking off the wiper cowling do I still need an offset box wrench and allen key, or will the air tool be strong enough to not need to hold the strut bolt while loosening the outer nut?

TIA!

[CrankyOldMan]

You will definitely want the offset wrench for the upper nut--rotating the piston is bad juju, and the impact wrench is almost guaranteed to rotate it.

The sway bar links are a real pain in the ass and tend to strip the interior hex socket. You may get lucky and get them to break loose with just an impact gun, but plan on using a box/offset wrench and allen wrench on those. Using some penetrating oil (like PB plaster) and letting it sit for an hour or so will help.

The OEM manual recommends replacing the two crash bolt nuts every time, as well as the top nuts on both the struts and shocks. I think you can get away with keeping the bolts and nuts from the bottom of the shocks (rears), but it doesn't hurt to have spares on hand in the event you shear one (or both) off when removing them.

[tmontague]

thanks Cranky, I'll make sure to get a set

[CrankyOldMan]

*Clarification: you need 4 crash bolt nuts total, not 2 as implied above.

[fourbangingfun]

Agreed with cranky on the sway bar end links. Mine were soft from corrosion and stripped almost immediately. We had to cut them off and replace with new Moog links. Be prepared to get frustrated with that part. The rest is a breeze.


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[Exiwolfman]

Did you make sure u don't have a broken coil spring stock once have a tendency to brake near the end bottom in the front.

[tmontague]

hmm, I haven't inspected mine yet but if this is the case then I'll have to compare the pricing of the strut+mount+coil vs the quick strut. It'll likely just make sense to spend the extra and purchase a quick strut.

My plan for the crash bolt nuts is to spray them with PB Blaster every day for a week leading to actually removing them. Then use an air gun. I;m hoping they will budge loose before any stripping happens. What's the easiest way to remove a stripped bolt if this ends up happening?

[Exiwolfman]

Use heat if u can on nut then zap with air gun ...they can be a bitch ....rest is easy.

[fourbangingfun]

Originally Posted by Exiwolfman

Use heat if u can on nut then zap with air gun ...they can be a bitch ....rest is easy.

+1


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[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by tmontague

What's the easiest way to remove a stripped bolt if this ends up happening?

I ended up having to weld in a piece of an 8mm hex wrench. The wrench was pretty low quality and ended up twisting several times before the nut broke loose. I think the only thing that kept it from shearing off completely was the PB blaster.

If you have a replacement end link, you can just drill out the stud and be done with it.

[tmontague]

Anyone have any recommendations for the best manufacturers for the following:

-front struts
-rear struts
-front springs (since they tend to fail after replacing strut)
-front mounts
-front sway bar end links

Keep in mind I care about durability and longevity not performance. I've spec'd them at Rock Auto but they are much pricier than I thought.

I also spec'd them at Canadian tire but they are insanely priced even if I purchase them with their typical spring time 25% off. I'm therefore looking to purchase online.

The KYB quick strut is $155 each at RockAuto but I'm weary about the KYB mounts as I've read some bad reviws about the mounts specifically.

Any input is appreciated, TIA

[tmontague]

I narrowed it down to partsgeek.com and their prices are pretty goog and they have free shipping over $100 which helps out.

They have OSC struts for a really good price but I'm a little weary as I'm not familiar with this company. Does anyone have any experience with the OSC brand? Or should I stick with KYB struts which are about $15-$20 more per strut?

[IllusionX]

Why do you have to change the whole thing? I've never heard of the front springs failing after replacing the struts..
for the end links, just reuse them if you are able to take them off, and still in good condition.

That's often a problem, everyone wants the best, but don't want to pay for the quality.

[tmontague]

A couple people stated that the front coils are known to crack relatively fast on the Yaris? I haven't inspected mine yet but as far as I know mine are fine.

The reason I'm changing the sway bar end links is due to the amount of body roll I have in corners. I think they are worn and need to be replaced

[Exiwolfman]

End links won't make ur ride stiffer ....as for coils ...stock do brake , done few under warranty and out , may depend on region.
How many km on ur car ...my original struts died at 110km

[tmontague]

136,000km in the salt belt. Hmm, I may hold off on the end links. Whats are the symptoms if they are starting to go?

[Exiwolfman]

U need struts end links should be fine ..clunk over bumps bouncing etc

[tmontague]

thanks, I'm ordering it off of Partsgeek and I'll just head to the border to pick up. I'm replacing the following:

-end link bolts (x4)
-struts F&R
-coil springs (not sure yet, will inspect first as they don't have them at parts geek and I'll purchase if needed)
- front strut mounts

I plan on covering the bolts in grease to keep everything from rusting and making this job harder in the future

I'm also replacing the valve cover (little oil leaking) as well as the exhaust gasket just past the manifold