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Old 06-28-2019, 07:28 PM   #271
CrankyOldMan
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Ok, looking at the wiring diagram now. Yes, pin 1 on A21 (B+) is directly switched by the EFI relay.

Side note--I really hope those aren't iridium plugs. Those type aren't supposed to be adjusted.
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Old 06-28-2019, 09:27 PM   #272
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In a perfect world, yes, but only if everything else in the vehicle was able to do that. There's probably a closer ground that's used by the ECU. You'd want to try and use that instead since you're connecting to that part of the electrical system. The other thing you risk doing by running a separate conductor back to the battery is called a ground loop. Basically you're making a new path for electrons to flow between the two ground reference points and causing one of them to be above zero. Here's an article with some examples of automotive grounds.

I should have a copy at home but might not have time to review it tonight.
Ah, yes, ground loop. I am a bit familiar with that having installed a few of my own car stereos.

I did get a hint from the AEM guys. They feel that one of the wires on the TPS is a signal ground. They also said that I do not need to hook up the two 02 sensors and suggested that the most simple setups seem to be the least problematic and most stable.

I also sent my questions, along with diagrams to the turbokits.com guys and Jesse, the lead tech, is sending them to the guys that make the Plug and Play harnesses. So, hopefully I will have definitive answers soon. If you do get a chance to review your diagrams, I'd be thankful, but only if it's not, in any way, an inconvenience for you. I really appreciate the thoughtful and informative responses that you've given so far.
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:54 AM   #273
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Securing of 3" intake and oil pan sensor install

I need one more 3" clamp, but my intake is now secure. I had to add some rubber padding between the head and piping which I held on with clamps. There should be no rubbing/chaffing now. It was a challenge due to space constraints. Right now I have the 45 coupler supported with pipe strapping. I will readdress this by rigging up a support from the transmission housing. There are a few available bolt holes to attach a custom support. I just have to have the car driveable for my exhaust appointment which is coming right up.



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Old 06-30-2019, 09:26 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Ok, looking at the wiring diagram now. Yes, pin 1 on A21 (B+) is directly switched by the EFI relay.

Side note--I really hope those aren't iridium plugs. Those type aren't supposed to be adjusted.
Don't know how I missed this. Thanks very much, Sam, for the confirmation on the switched power supply.

I wasn't aware that the Iriduim plugs shouldn't be gapped. I assumed that turbokits would have taken that into consideration when designing the kit.

I found this video and he does refer to gapping iridium plugs, but I will check with the turbokits guys. Thanks for the heads-up!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJBG2r1a5qg
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Old 07-02-2019, 08:52 AM   #275
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Just got my remaining proposed wire placements confirmed. I had the connections right, but was missing the signal ground. Thanks to Jesse at turbokits.com. It appears that I only have 3 left wires to connect and a startup is imminent. Getting excited...and nervous. Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until Sunday due to prior committments. Fingers crossed that it starts as my exhaust appointment is at 8:00 am on Monday.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:47 PM   #276
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Updates...

After being away for a week at our son's hockey camp in PEI, I got a couple of hours in the garage tonight. To add excitement to our trip, our van suffered a failed wheel bearing - well it got quite noisy. Not having my tools or an adequate way to support the massively heavy van, I had to take it to a garage. They had to use a BFH to remove the rotor, destroying it. Then, they had to literally cut the wheel bearing off with the torches. In the process, they trashed my axle and melted my speed sensor, so a new axle was also needed. I told them to forget about the ABS sensor as I'd get one from rockauto at a fraction of the cost and install it myself. I was there for most of the work and it was legitimately a very tough job and they did try all the appropriate methods. The van had to stay over night and was worked on for at least 6 hours. They charged my 2.5 hours labour. An honest outfit, I'd say. Enough about that...on to the car...

Tomorrow is the 'big day' during which, I reconnect my battery cable, hope to god there are no sparks, load the F/IC basemap and pray that the car will run. I have an appointment on Monday for my exhaust work. In anticipation of tomorrow's start attempt, I filled the car with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30. I'll probably go with 0W20 or 5W20 next time after reading Trevor's posts about oil.

Tonight's efforts:

Installed the MAP vacuum hose for the F/IC. After tapping into the vacuum lines, I ziptied the hose along the engine harness and through the firewall to the F/IC.



Here is a pic of the engine bay in its current state without the engine cover on. In the upper left corner, you can see the F/IC to ECU wiring, which I completed tonight. The connections I made this evening were for: signal ground, TPS and AFR (B1S1). All of these connections were taps and not intercepts.



With engine cover on.



Here is a pic of the (if I remember correctly) TPS connection. I had to add about 2" of wire to ensure enough slack to plug the large ECU plug (C19) back into the ECU. These connections should never fail as they are splayed open, fluxed, interwoven, then twisted, soldered really well, tug-tested and then heatshrinked. Nice to see the goo oozing out of the ends of the heatshrink. Everything will also be taped, run in conduit and taped again.



I found a great use for my little bits of leftover heatshrink. Many of the wires that I passed through the firewall I subsequently found out I didn't need afterall. So I capped them with bits of heatshrink, pinched then ends when still hot and they welded shut on the ends. I'll tuck these back into the harness before conduit and taping.



When I was away, I picked up a 3" ID x 2.5" OD coupler for my exhaust. Yes, I will be going with 2.5" piping back to my Megan axleback. Should breathe well.



Finally, I installed the second temp sensor for the Prosport gauges. If I have time tomorrow after my start and drive attempts, I'll do the gauge wiring and the final mounting of the gauges. The oil pressure gauge may have to wait a few days as I'm rigging up a remote mounting solution for the sensor - for two reasons: 1) it's bulky and likely heavy when filled with oil and I don't want that cantilevered out on the brass fittings at the oil port, and 2) apparently constant engine vibrations shorten the life of these sensors, so mounting it to the frame somewhere should be better. I learned that I can pick up a cheap grease gun hose and because it has 1/8" NPT fittings on both ends, serves as a great hose for the remote mount. Plus, it's rated for 3000 psi or something crazy. Apparently it can easily handle hot oil from the forums I've read and many people are using these successfully with no documented failures.

Trans temp sensor.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 07-07-2019 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:05 PM   #277
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Up and Running

I had a few jobs to complete today in prep for my exhaust appointment tomorrow. In the same building is an autoglass business, so the car will roll from one bay to the other.

I had to relocate the air temp sensor as when I went to put the front back on the car, the spot that it normally occupied was filled with intercooler piping. I managed to get it in the airflow, just in the upper opening as opposed to the lower.

It was pretty scary hooking up the battery and turning the ignition. But, everything went well. The car runs well, but occasionally stumbles and regains its rpm. I did have a scary few moments when I thought I'd corrupted the map as I adjusted the fuel injector size and the car stalled and wouldn't start again. I reloaded the basemap and things corrected themselves. Some fine tuning is definitely needed as my fuel trims are still a little whacky, but I'm sure these will be addressed in the tune. I went for a couple short drives and although I tried to stay out of boost, I may have slightly entered it. The torque is simply amazing and I've only revved up to about 3500. The car pulls strongly in the low rpms and I was barely touching the throttle. I will keep things calm until my tune which I'm hoping will be next week.



ECU wiring done




Front and wiper tray back on



Hood on

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Old 07-08-2019, 12:51 AM   #278
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Awesome, just awesome!
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Old 07-08-2019, 02:25 AM   #279
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Woo-hoo! Congrats.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:53 AM   #280
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Awesome, just awesome!
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Woo-hoo! Congrats.
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Old 07-08-2019, 02:22 PM   #281
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Congrats! Glad it's up and running!
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Old 07-08-2019, 06:27 PM   #282
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Thanks guys! Exciting times! Got the exhaust done today and will post pics in a bit. The exhaust work is not the most beautiful but is 2.5" and should flow well. The most restrictive point in the system is probably actually the Megan axleback that appears to be 2.25". Exhaust sounds great and I won't need a resonator afterall as I thought I might, though I'll decide after some highway driving.

I do have one MAF code to sort and the rear 02 code but it will be remedied with a defouler. The sensor is actually just hanging out under the car now as I have to extend the wires to go around to the opposite side. Car drives great except for the occasional stumbling at idle but hopefully the tune will help that. Staying out of boost for now. No leaks - big bonus. Haha.

Hoping to hook up my gauges tomorrow but coolant temps are great. I did some testing yesterday and determined that the rad fan comes on around 203F and man it's effective. Temps drop like a rock as soon as it kicks in and that was in my hot garage. This combined with what I've read and Trevor's comments and I'm more optimistic about my cooling system handling the turbo. Maybe the fan will just run a little longer if it needs to.
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Old 07-09-2019, 08:27 AM   #283
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Great work man. It has to feel good to have it back on the road after doing all of this.
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:25 AM   #284
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Great work man. It has to feel good to have it back on the road after doing all of this.
Thanks! It does feel good but will feel much better after the tune. I'm really looking forward to experiencing boost, but must remain patient until my final tune.

After dropping my daughter off at her gymnastics class, I dropped by this garage that had a lot of muscle cars and classic cars in their lot. They referred me across the street to an equipment rental agency operated by a father and son who are both heavily into motorsports. The son has a turbocharged Cobalt and he did all the work himself. He's up for going for a drive with me to check out how the car is running before the tune. Great to make such a contact.

Hopefully today I'll get a sart on wiring my gauges. Will post up progress shots of that.

I had a thought that my MAF code might be due to a dirty MAF sensor. I used an oiled filter for my intake and it was quite juicy. I'll clean the MAF, reset the code and see if it comes back.
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Old 07-09-2019, 09:12 PM   #285
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Gauge wiring started

I got a couple hours in the garage today and started the wiring. It's coming together well and I found a nice location for the harness I'm making to exit the glove box. It's right between the two change holders and a short drop to the lower hatch access. I still have to figure out where to tap into the headlight switch. I had a look at the wiring diagrams but can't really make heads or tails out of them. So, if anyone knows which wire from the headlight switch becomes live when the headlights are turned on, I'd be most grateful.

You might notice one of the brackets that hold the gauges to the glovebox (far right gauge) is different. In the current chaos of my garage one for the brackets went missing, so I had to modify one from an older set of gauges I had. It actually worked better than the Prosport ones and is more low profile. Gauges are very snug and secure to the dash.



There are three red and three white wires that can all be combined. These are all ACC power. I plan to tap into the charging port (cigarette lighter, for lack of a better term) located in the lower console. All three orange wires get hooked together and these are connected to the elusive headlight switched power. The three green wires go to the various sensors.



Conduit housing all the wires. I put a ziptie next to the hole to keep the wiring from pulling on the gauge plugs. The harness is secured on the middle gauge bracket to keep wires from chafing.



Wires labeled before sending the harness down below



Wires below



Glovebox closes perfectly

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Old 07-10-2019, 09:51 AM   #286
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Wiring continues...

After getting my head around the wiring diagrams, I have a solution for the headlight switched source (this is what changes the gauge color from white in the daytime to blue at night). I found that pins 7, 8, 9 and 10 in B13 in the fuse box are the park light power sources, so rather than hook the gauges to the headlights and having to figure out the relays, I can just tap into one of the park light lines. I tested the circuit with my multimeter and had 0 volts with the park lights in the off position on the stalk and 12.6V (not running) and 14.2V (running) with the park lights turned on. I have selected the passenger side park light green wire. I will tap, solder heatshrink, wire loom and tape it. The two green wires are for the trans temp sensor and the oil pan temp sensor. I still have to run grounds for the two temp sensors, but I'll run them in the leg of the harness that goes to the sensors. I'm not a big fan of the sensor connectors that are just male and female terminals (much like trailer wiring) with clear rubber sleeves. I'll solder these wires and hearshrink them. If I have to replace the sensors down the road, I'll just cut the wires and resolder/heatshrink.

Looks like my strut tower could use a little degreasing and a fresh application of rust-proofing. It has kept the rust completely at bay however.



The entire wiring will be soldered, heat shrinked, run through loom and taped and zip tied everywhere in the engine bay as well as behind the dash. There is still a lot to do. I have to remote mount my oil pressure sensor, so I still need some parts. I also need to make my final decision on where I'm going to tap into accessory power.

Here is a pic of the custom harness coming through the firewall. The hole I drilled for the F/IC was just big enough to accommodate this new harness.



Adding pics as I go.

Here is the switched headlight (park light) power source in its loom. I am thinking about lengthening that leg and running it along the bottom of the strut tower and up in behind. I think it looks pretty poor crossing the tower diagonally.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 07-10-2019 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:14 PM   #287
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2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Looking good!
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:25 PM   #288
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Looking good!
Thanks Sam! It's coming along. Once I get the gauges done I'll be trying to figure out the MAF code I'm getting. I'm going back and forth with AEM but they don't seem to want to tell me if I've wired the MAF correctly or not. I understand their reluctance to provide wiring directions, but on the other hand, it is their product and you would think that they'd offer support with a disclaimer that absolves them of any responsibility if anything goes wrong. I'd surely sign anything to that effect.

Here's they way I have it wired:

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