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Old 12-31-2011, 02:07 PM   #19
bronsin
 
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I got it hooked up. I started up the engine and pressed the momentary switch. After about 2 seconds the CEL goes out. Then it came back on.

I managed to misread the directions and hooked it up backwards.

To aid dyslexics like myself run a wire straight from the blue wire of the temperature sensor to one side of the momentary switch.

The other side of the momentary switch gets the resistor hooked up to it. Then connect a wire to the resistor and run it to ground.

No time for any further testing.
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:31 PM   #20
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would there be any issues if you used a 2 position maintained switch instead of a momentary? This would allow me to leave the switch turned on instead of having to hold it down while driving. But at the same time it could open the possibility of forgetting to turn it off and running the car like that for months, any thoughts if this could damage anything?
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
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would there be any issues if you used a 2 position maintained switch instead of a momentary? This would allow me to leave the switch turned on instead of having to hold it down while driving. But at the same time it could open the possibility of forgetting to turn it off and running the car like that for months, any thoughts if this could damage anything?

No you really really dont want to do that.

If the computer sees 300 ohms from the temperature sensor, it thinks the coolant has warmed up. It allows the transmission to shift into high right after that.

But you dont want the engine running like it thinks its warmed up when it isnt. When you push the momentary button, the green Cool Engine Light goes out for a couple of seconds.

Then it comes back on after you let go the button.

What we are hoping is happening is the transmission is fooled into thinking it can go into high BUT the engine is still being carburated like its not warmed up. So you want a momentary impulse. Not a continuous one.

Also, using a block heater as I am experimenting with, the CEL goes out after .4-.6 mile (as opposed to to ~ 1 mile without it) But Im not out of the neighborhood yet so I dont need high gear.

Coming home from work in another story. There Im on the freeway after less than .5 mile.

Thats what the mod is for.
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Old 01-01-2012, 01:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
No you really really dont want to do that.

If the computer sees 300 ohms from the temperature sensor, it thinks the coolant has warmed up. It allows the transmission to shift into high right after that.

But you dont want the engine running like it thinks its warmed up when it isnt. When you push the momentary button, the green Cool Engine Light goes out for a couple of seconds.

Then it comes back on after you let go the button.

What we are hoping is happening is the transmission is fooled into thinking it can go into high BUT the engine is still being carburated like its not warmed up. So you want a momentary impulse. Not a continuous one.

Also, using a block heater as I am experimenting with, the CEL goes out after .4-.6 mile (as opposed to to ~ 1 mile without it) But Im not out of the neighborhood yet so I dont need high gear.

Coming home from work in another story. There Im on the freeway after less than .5 mile.

Thats what the mod is for.

ahhhh ok I understand now, I had to re-read the first post again. I thought that the transmission would go back to third gear once the light came back on. I must have skipped that paragraph in CTScott's explanation.

I did order a block heater from ebay last week so i am just waiting for that to come in the mail now. Driving in third gear for so long is really annoying to me since I have only owned MT cars for the last ~10 years.

I will see how the block heater works and decide if I still want to do this mod. Like you were saying I can't plug my car in at work so I may end up doing this anyways

thanks!!
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:06 PM   #23
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I tried out the mod today and it worked great.

I was at work, .5 mile from the freeway, and it was ~ 30 degrees. Pretty cold for an afternoon high in winter near Philly. Normal winter high ~ 40 degrees.

I started the engine and pushed the button until the Cold Engine Light went out. About 5 seconds. It came back on again after about another five seconds.

I was able to get up to ~ 35 mpg .2 miles before the freeway and it shifted right into 4th with the CEL still on. The CEL went out after .8 mile. So I had .5 mile of 4th gear where I previously would have been in 3rd. This out of a total ~ 6.6 mile trip.

Ive learned to leave my heat OFF when starting out because that dramatically increases the time it takes for the CEL to go out. And note the CEL goes out at 140 degrees of coolant temp which is NOT normal operating temp. (more like 200 degrees)

Also I have the AC fuse pulled so I dont have to worry about running the compressor inadventantly.

Running the defroster on 4 and the heat on max red at 40 degrees gives you a CEL out at 1.3 miles. Thats with my block heater on for 2 hours prior to startup.

Normal miles to CEL out with the block heater @ 40 degrees is .4 mile.
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Old 04-21-2012, 01:30 AM   #24
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Oh wow, this is amazing info. I seriously thought something was wrong with my Yaris after observing this 'feature'. It didn't click to me that it only shifted to 4th once the cool light went off but it definitely makes sense now. I'm adding to my list of 'todo' mods.

Thanks for the info and the DIY instructions!
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:45 PM   #25
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Wow this is great - just finally saw this today. The warm up phase is so tricky to tune in open loop without dumping fuel. Also don't have cats anymore so emissions...?

Will definitely be trying this out sometime. Thanks, once again, CTScott.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:30 PM   #26
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Genius! I'd love to try this. My route home from work puts me right on a 55mph PSL state highway and waiting for 4th and lockup to engage is hurting my fuel economy significantly. Love to try this.
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Old 03-14-2015, 07:40 AM   #27
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UPDATE

A winter of activating the 4th gear cold engine enabler revealed that no detectable in mpg resulted. Fortunately for me its rare for it to be so cold that Im not in fourth when on a freeway after starting.

IF you had to start the engine and go right away to 50 mph that would suck!
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Old 03-22-2015, 03:15 AM   #28
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My 98 Corona does this but its way more apparent than the Vios and both these cars are in a tropical climate. On a cool night, 25c ambient temp, it will not shift to 4th for a good 5-6 km. If that car were in cold climate, I bet it'd never change to 4th.

I found some old article about toyota ECT on the net and it says this for protection of the transmission.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:16 AM   #29
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My 98 Corona does this but its way more apparent than the Vios and both these cars are in a tropical climate. On a cool night, 25c ambient temp, it will not shift to 4th for a good 5-6 km. If that car were in cold climate, I bet it'd never change to 4th.

I found some old article about toyota ECT on the net and it says this for protection of the transmission.
Makes sense I guess. How good it is for the engine I don't know!
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