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Old 06-09-2006, 03:08 PM   #1
punch
 
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door speaker install gone wrong!!!

Pfft, i've installed my own stereos for years , well went to swicth out my door speakers for my new alpine SLR componants, after getting the door panel off pretty simple, but the power doorlocks/window switch was a bitch to disconnect, I then drilled out the rivets holding the stock speakers in, I knew I would need a spacer, but I needed almost 1" worth of wood spacers...

then the tricky part finally stumped me, how to run new wires from the doors into the passenger compartment, I tried fishing wires, coat hangers etc,,, throught the factory supplied rubber boot, but never got far enough, and backed off in fear of nicking a stock wire...

anyone have tricks to get wire from the door into the cabin, and not much room to mount the crossover either??? it may have to go under dash...

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Old 06-09-2006, 03:58 PM   #2
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There are some posts in another thread that show installation of new speakers in both the front and the rear. The rubber boots between the door and cabin sort of snap out from what I gathered. Anyway, download the pdfs they are fairly helpfull.
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Old 06-09-2006, 04:51 PM   #3
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This file was posted in the DIY section. Tells you how to run the wiring. Hope it helps.

Speaker_instalation_with_partial_prewiring.pdf
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Old 06-09-2006, 05:14 PM   #4
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haha, you guys are funny... thats showing rear speakers only in a hatch... now open your front doors, and tell me how you get your hand between the front door, and the car to remove the rubber boot, never mind trying to get it back in afterwards...
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Old 06-09-2006, 07:43 PM   #5
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If you look in the kick panel, the wires coming from the door are plugs/ or are plugged in on the kick panel. You can unplug it and pull the whole wiring and grommet through the door. Run your wire through the grommet first, then follow your steps backwards.

Maybe this will help you
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Old 06-25-2006, 04:00 PM   #6
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Honestly unless you are running a large amp to run the speakers it is really not worth the time and effort to run aftermarket speaker wires. Factory wiring can usually handle approx 75 watts or so. As far as the crossover going through the hole behind the speaker works as long as you have nice speakers and the cross over is pretty well protected from water.
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Old 06-26-2006, 11:33 AM   #7
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75 watts is nothing, lol.
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Old 06-26-2006, 11:49 AM   #8
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the stock yaris audio wires are PIDDLY! looks like 18 or 20 gauge
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Old 06-26-2006, 12:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattiepl
Honestly unless you are running a large amp to run the speakers it is really not worth the time and effort to run aftermarket speaker wires. Factory wiring can usually handle approx 75 watts or so. As far as the crossover going through the hole behind the speaker works as long as you have nice speakers and the cross over is pretty well protected from water.
I would have to agree with Mattiepl. 75watts is a lot for that car pffff. anymore you better be in competitions all year round. Bigger is better but you might as well run 12awg or 14 awg not from your deck FROM YOUR AMP. Use xover bla bla bla. but there is NOOOOOO need to go any higher than 75watts rms on the front doors. UNLESS YOUR WHY? lol
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:41 PM   #10
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http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/wir...calculator.swf
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:02 AM   #11
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Ok, go back to the basics. The thinner the wire, the more the resistance the signal has traveling to the amp.

If you are putting a few grand into a stereo system, you might as well buy the thickest wire you can find.

It just makes sense. The amp amplifies the signal, it does not replace anything that was lost on the way from the head unit.
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:48 AM   #12
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If you are spending a couple of grand you are going to have amps and you need to run wire from it to the door speakers anyway. SOOO yes that would make sense BUT if you are just upgrading deck and speakers then there really is no need to try and get new wires in. ALSO you are right about the the bigger the better but unless you have 75watts or more of continuous power which would mean lots and lots of CURRENT flow.I still say factory is fine remember unless you are coming from an AMP it is just not worth the work. But hey if you have lots of time and money go nuts.
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:41 PM   #13
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lol, lets see, the replacement speakers I am going to use in the front take 40w rms and 160w peak. The two rears are going to each take 75w rms and 300w peak. The sub is 1000w rms and 3000w peak, and I'll prolly get two of those. So yeah, 75w is nothing.
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Old 06-27-2006, 05:19 PM   #14
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lol are you running a 5/6 channel amp or are you running a 4 channel with a mono or 2channel? I would like to see the end result. I would also like to hear it but that would still be dif.

Good luck and I hope everything goes good for you
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Old 06-27-2006, 08:48 PM   #15
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This is agood question tho. I have a Yaris S with the "premium" headunit which is "integrated" into the console so I have determined that I will just upgrade the 4 speakers to get a richer sound with my 10200 Bazooka in the trunk. After much thought and looking at the docs here I have determined that I get way too pissed from "shoehorning" henceforth I will leave this install to BestBuy

BTW...I take it the front doors have 5 1/4" ??
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:12 AM   #16
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Do it yourself you will pay way to much for bad quality work. Just drink half as much....lol
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Old 06-28-2006, 12:45 PM   #17
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I know the guys at the BB near me...they know what they are doing and I can stay in the shop while it is being done.
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Old 06-28-2006, 01:49 PM   #18
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Ok as long as there is a beer fridge lol. But it is easy to do and you can mabye learn a thing or two. Whatever happen I am sure you will like it and if not then you are not drinking enough. Post pics when done.
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