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Old 01-27-2012, 07:48 AM   #37
CTScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarisyeti View Post
Would this work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PCS-12V-DC...item1c1d3e6219

I live in the country, and having a light to see where I'm walking from my car to my house would be nice, and I think this would be ideal.

Thanks!

(just call me the old thread resurrecter!!)
You want the opposite (a delay on break, rather than a delay on make relay).
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:15 PM   #38
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gonna try it on my fj60 and report
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:54 PM   #39
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How come this not come in standard package... It's really hard to understand Toyota sometimes...
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:20 PM   #40
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Is there a reason to keep the buzzer hooked up? Is it the same buzzer for leaving the key in the ignition?
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:22 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Setheroo View Post
Is there a reason to keep the buzzer hooked up? Is it the same buzzer for leaving the key in the ignition?
The buzzer is easily removable from the instrument cluster circuit board. The one buzzer is used for warning for seat belts, headlights, and key in ignition.
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Old 06-06-2015, 08:51 PM   #42
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hi all,
i was just wondering, aren't the headlights already powered through a relay from factory? (or all the power go directly trough headlight switch ?)
if so can't we make the change directly there? without adding another relay? just by changing the command source?

btw i have an yaris d4d, automatic transmission, with keyless entry and start and digital dash and i love it
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Old 06-06-2015, 08:55 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by townkat View Post
hi all,
i was just wondering, aren't the headlights already powered trough a relay from factory? (or all the power go directly trough headlight switch ?)
if so can't we make the change directly there? without adding another relay? just by changing the command source?

btw i have an yaris d4d, automatic transmision, with keyless entry and start and digital dash and i love it
They are controlled by a set of relays, but those relays are controlled by the headlight stalk. If you wanted to make the ignition control the headlights instead, then you could move the control point, but if you want the ignition to intercept that feed, as I did here, you need another relay.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:22 PM   #44
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so, headlight stalk control some relay, so there is little current going trough it

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
You really want a relay in there to keep the headlight and ignition circuits separate. The relay allows one circuit to switch the other, without being a direct connection.
if you can detail a little bit on this i would love to understand more, what can happen bad if relay is not used, as i am very tempted to wire them directly if i can't see a direct drawback

thank you

Last edited by townkat; 06-06-2015 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:58 PM   #45
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If you put more current through a switch than it can handle, typical failure modes include it becoming unreliable, it completely failing, the item physically disintegrating (due to arcing), and at worst, fire.

If a switch is meant to control a relay (likely less than .2 amps) and you place a 10 A current through it (what your headlights draw) I would lean to the end of the list (disintegrating or fire).
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Old 06-08-2015, 06:40 PM   #46
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i know that, but i understand that the headlights stalk just powers the command of some relays, so just few milliamperes ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
They are controlled by a set of relays, but those relays are controlled by the headlight stalk.
and my suggestion is to change the source of the headlights stalk switch, not its destination

anyway, thanks for the heads up, what you say it's true, just that i think it is not the case here..
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Old 11-03-2018, 08:42 PM   #47
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I would first like to thank you for this tutorial and offer an alternative as well. I bought the base for the relay as well and avoided splicing any wiring. I simply jumped pins 6-7 with a short length of wire and made all other connections by simply cutting and stripping the cars wires and connecting to the proper terminals. I did still use the tap connector for signal from the ignition though.
I have included a link for purchasing the relay and base from Amazon: uxcell DC 12V Coil Power Relay 10A DPDT LY2NJ with PTF08A Socket Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XBGHB0C..._C5J3Bb9SQHDD4
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