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Old 06-08-2013, 02:46 PM   #1
Shinare
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bought iridium spark plugs but need help

Bought some spark plugs today to change them out. But stripping the bolt on my alternator really spooked me. I cant find any DIY's on changing yaris plugs. I think I can do it but is there a specific torque for tightening them back up? They gave me anti-seize stuff for them as well, how much of that do I put? Do I smear it all over the threads or just put a dot or dab or what?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-08-2013, 04:46 PM   #2
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When I did it, I tightened them to finger tight, then just over a quarter turn past that, to "finger snug with a little leverage".

Use enough anti-seize that it will fill the plug top to bottom when it gets compressed. Don't worry about smearing it all over, it will even itself out as you screw it in. I just laid a stripe along the full length of the thread on each plug.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:10 PM   #3
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13 ft*lbs. see page EM-150
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:15 PM   #4
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^ ^
Install either way stated and you will be fine.
"Anti-seize stuff" is good........

BTW, with either method, , be sure the threads are clean and are either lightly oiled or, with AS compound applied.

Last edited by RedRide; 06-08-2013 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:29 PM   #5
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Be sure to start the threads by hand, if you use a wrench to start them your chances of cross-threading are greatly increased... they're impossible to cross-thread if you finger-tighten them before you reach for the wrench.

Also, don't over-tighten them, 13 ft. lbs. is not a lot.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:52 PM   #6
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Iridium? I'll give this a go next. I had NGK then Bosch. Bosch is smoother and quieter.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:14 PM   #7
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OK, I have a big ole torque wrench I should be able to set it at 13ft/lbs.

The brand name I bought is "NGK Iridium IX" and was told by the man behind the counter these are "factory" and was the same price as the Bosch so said I should get these. ($6 each)
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Before it was totaled I drove a 2007 Black Sand Pearl 3 Door Lift-Back M/T with 49k miles. Stock Everything except for black tint, all red badges, red dash, and stealth garage door opener. Ultra-Gauge mounted on steering wheel. A1 Electric MES Central Locks and Avital 3100 Alarm system.
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:01 PM   #8
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Not a real fan of anti seize i talked to one of the developers that works for ngk and he said that for sake of courisity he wanted to see how much torque it would take to snap a spark plug so he took a block of aluminum drilled threaded holes in it and put it in a vise then he took spark plugs with a torque wrench torqued them down till they snaped he said it needed nearly 100 ft llbs before the plug actually snapped but he did the same with anti seize on the thread and it broke at 16 or 36 i cant remember the number he said but it was significantly lower because anti seize is a friction modifier.

I think they never install it on the threads from the factory for a reason.

I would take your spark plug and insert it into your spark plug tool with a extention and then hand screw them in till they are seated. Take your ratchet and hold it by the base and tightend it as hard as you can with just one hand. You wont be able to overtorque it that way. Using a large torque wrench on its lowest setting is going to ensure its not going to be very accurate. I always like to pick the torque wrench for the job that is going to be in its middle range. If you are going to be using a torque wrench only use a 1/4 or 3/8 drive. The issue is when you add things like long extension they effect the rotational torque and you are going to end up with the plugs being undertorqued and they may slowly back out over time.
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:51 PM   #9
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I might get a smaller torque wrench then when I'm at harbor freight picking up a turbo socket to extract my stripped bolt head.

Well, goodness, now I got the parts guy and several other people on here saying to use the anti-seize and now someone saying scary things and dont use it. which is it.. lol :)
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Before it was totaled I drove a 2007 Black Sand Pearl 3 Door Lift-Back M/T with 49k miles. Stock Everything except for black tint, all red badges, red dash, and stealth garage door opener. Ultra-Gauge mounted on steering wheel. A1 Electric MES Central Locks and Avital 3100 Alarm system.
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:55 PM   #10
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You may find this useful.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason214 View Post
Wow, thanks Jason, thats very helpful. :)
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Now I drive a CARMINE RED METALLIC 09 Yaris 3-door!! I'm Back!!! WooHoo!! Mods done so far: Tinted windows, Viper 211HV Remote Keyless Entry, Atoto Android headunit, backup camera, steering wheel controls

Before it was totaled I drove a 2007 Black Sand Pearl 3 Door Lift-Back M/T with 49k miles. Stock Everything except for black tint, all red badges, red dash, and stealth garage door opener. Ultra-Gauge mounted on steering wheel. A1 Electric MES Central Locks and Avital 3100 Alarm system.
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason214 View Post
This is all very well in theory that the plugs have an anti seize coating. In practice this is not very effective. If we are talking about 14mm. plugs they have a 26.5mm reach, that is a lot of thread to corrode. The figure given by NGK for tightening these plugs is 15 - 20 Nm. or 11 - 15 lb.ft. A light coat of copper grease on the threads and tighten to 12 lb.ft. and when you want to remove them you will not find them seized. As Einstein said, In theory, theory and practice are the same thing, in practice they are not.
Regards Geoff Peace.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:55 PM   #13
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I use Anti-Sez on plugs and tighten by hand, grabbing the head on the ratchet and turning until it stops. It's most likely around 15~20 ft.

Over the last 40 years I've done over 1000 plugs, and never had one brake, strip or cross thread.

I've have fixed plenty of mucked up plug threads that others have thrashed.

I've only been using anti-sez for the last 20 years. If you ask why Toyota does not? I'd guess it would be a cost thing.
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:43 PM   #14
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FWIW........
Even though (long life) iridium plugs can last up to about 90k miles, it is still recommended that you remove them at about 50k for an inspection and to insure that they are not seized. If they were somewhat seized at 50k miles, they wold be even worse at 90k .
However, most just replace them at 50k instead of just inspecting them and putting the old ones back in .

"Power" iridium plugs should be replace at about 30k to retain the full benefit of them
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:39 PM   #15
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I just swab on a dab of motor oil on the threads. That anti seize stuff cakes up and can make things tighter coming out. I experienced this when removing my exhaust muffler bolts, this big gray wad fell out of antiseize.It was tight coming out too...
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:59 PM   #16
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Was nice when the 4 plugs were on front of the cast iron engine ( mitsu 1.4 , 1.5 , and 1.6 ) . Would change those , not with the aluminum .
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:42 AM   #17
Shinare
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Thanks all, I'll just put them in without the AS and check on them in another 50k miles, heh. :-)
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Now I drive a CARMINE RED METALLIC 09 Yaris 3-door!! I'm Back!!! WooHoo!! Mods done so far: Tinted windows, Viper 211HV Remote Keyless Entry, Atoto Android headunit, backup camera, steering wheel controls

Before it was totaled I drove a 2007 Black Sand Pearl 3 Door Lift-Back M/T with 49k miles. Stock Everything except for black tint, all red badges, red dash, and stealth garage door opener. Ultra-Gauge mounted on steering wheel. A1 Electric MES Central Locks and Avital 3100 Alarm system.
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:44 PM   #18
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AS

it's better if you put just a little Anti-sieze. If you put too much AS that's when you run into problems of overtightening them. you'll have a hard time removing them those plugs without the AS at 90k miles....good luck though

Last edited by esse10; 06-11-2013 at 01:50 PM.
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