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Old 01-04-2018, 10:52 AM   #1
rafhelp
 
Drives: Toyota Yaris 1.33 TR
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MIL and O2 Sensor Issue

I had an issue (which may or may not be related to the problem), I had empty tank (one bar flashing) I then filled in 10 petrol and came out petrol station to see the fule level bar was still flashing. I thought this has to be wrong.

After driving for a bit the bars went upto 2. Why is this.

The problem:
Was out driving on motorway and engine MIL light came on (yellow). Driving wise it does not seem much different. But maybe a little less responsive to gas pedal.

Hooked up machine and it showed up a code. 02 Sensor stuck / Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1

Can I try this.. erase the code with the machine and drive around for a bit, if the problem is real and not a false flag, the same light and code will present itself. Then I suppose its time for garage.

Is this a common issue and is it expensive to fix?

I read o2 sensors last about 60K miles and mine has more than that, could it be a case of it being worn out.
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:18 AM   #2
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yes it could just be time for a new sensor.
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:17 PM   #3
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I'd clear the code and see. I have 145,000 on my original O2 sensors, although they do have a limited lifespan.
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Old 01-06-2018, 06:14 AM   #4
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10 of fuel might not register on the dash.. Either getting robbed from the petrol station or the fuel sending unit is stcking a little .. Nothing to worry about.
Running on low fuel will also have an effect on the fuel mixture hence the triping of the dtc you are having
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Old 01-06-2018, 09:44 AM   #5
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ok cleared and stays off ive used the premium unleaded maybe that will help things.

BUt in future if it says stuck/rich i read that coudl mean several things.

o2 sensors are expensive so whats the best way to resolve this?

I assume a garage can do better diagnoses to find actual fault before forking out on a new sensor?

I bought a diagnostic machine which has things like live data stream, can it be used to further diagnose issue.
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Old 01-06-2018, 10:33 AM   #6
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has anyone got a ebay link for a o2 sensor bank 1 for 09 plate TR VVT-i yaris

thanks
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Old 01-09-2018, 04:03 PM   #7
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hi, for a good few days the MIL light was off, i went for drive and i noticed the fuel indicator blinking for low fuel, i was parked up and it went from 2 bars to blinking 1 bar..

So i drove to petrol station, and as I stopped i noticed the fuel bar back upto 2 bars.

As i was filling petrol I noticed the nozzle trigger kept clicking (as what happens when it senses a full tank), only way i could fill up was by pulling the nozzle back a few centimeters and pressing down.

The guy at the checkout said its common thing with Yaris and Ford. Is this true.

As I drove out the station all of a sudden MIL light pops back up and diag machine shows same code o2 bank 1 sensor 1

Any help appreciated

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2018, 04:10 PM   #8
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It all has to do with how much fuel pressure the fuel station is pushing through the handle. Some stations crank the pressure up to fill tanks faster but has the side effect of causing faulse shutoffs because fuel cant travel down the filler neck fast enough or vent the tank fast enough. It does that at some stations for me too.
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Old 01-11-2018, 10:50 AM   #9
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would this not fit yaris
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL...97.m4902.l9144

garage says cant fit as it needs a plug, seller says you can attach the wires together
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Old 01-11-2018, 11:07 AM   #10
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Well I’m pretty sure your car would use an AFR sensor not an O2 sensor. And I wouldn’t cheap out on it. Get a Denso or NTK branded one if you’re going to replace it.
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:13 PM   #11
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i had a theory which i just tested.

MIL light knocked off for few days, drove to nearby town and back on motorway. light stayed off. drove round town light stayed off.

put in some petrol again and after about a minute MIL light comes on (happened 3 times like this)

why would adding petrol trigger o2 sensor?

im not sure about the fuel intake system but could it be linked?
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:05 PM   #12
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is the bank1 sensor 1 the one that can be accessed from open bonnet, just in front of the fan?
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:02 PM   #13
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I'm not familiar with your engine in relation to the 1nz but sensor 1 is the closest one to the engine block so assuming the exhaust manifold is on the front of the engine it should be the easy one to access right when you open the hood
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:55 PM   #14
rafhelp
 
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bought a new direct fit o2 sensor. It looked a bit different to the old one and the wire to the plug was longer.

The mechanic could not get the old one out so he had to 'torch' the sensor with blow torch making it hot and then was able to take it out. The old sensor was covered in black 'soot' i.e really dirty.

The new one was put in and it fitted into the socket and plug, just the wire had to be secured as it was longer.

Now I drove home fine, light stayed off. I went out later and as soon as I switched car on MIL came one again, now it gave two different but both linked to the same bank 1 sensor 1.





so the problem is worse now as before I could actually knock the MIL light off and drive around for a few days but now it comes on straight away.

Anyone know why this is?

Thanks
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:37 PM   #15
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Did you get a genuine Denso one or did they get a cheap Chinese sensor? At this point I would suspect everything from a dodgy sensor, bad wiring, poor pin fitment in the sensor connector or if its one of those universal sensors that the wiring was done incorrectly when the mechanic fitted it and wired the plug.

The other thing i'd wonder being a Toyota is if it has a conventional zirconia O2 sensor which oscillates between 0-1V or its one of these fancy AFR sensors in which case the installation of the wrong type of sensor would cause an issue. I know my 2006 Yaris 1.0 has a conventional O2 sensor and so does my cousins 56 reg 1.3 (which has the 2SZ-FE engine) but if i remember correctly Toyota introduced the 1NR-FE engine around 2009 to comply with Euro 5 emissions and i would suspect that in order to meet the new standards they would be running an AFR sensor. Toyota have been using them since the early 2000's in other vehicles like the RAV4 and Prius (at least in bank 1). Honda and Subaru have also jumped on the band wagon and other manufacturers call them "wideband oxygen sensors".

I would recommend putting your cars VIN number into www.toyodiy.com. Your VIN number can be found on the black sticker on the inside of your passenger door usually. It should probably start with a V and have 17 characters. Then go to the electrical tab then I think Oxygen/AFR sensors is under something like "Switch/Electrical" which has several pages. It will say Oxygen or AFR in there and give you the part number so you can either get one from the dealer or find a genuine Denso one somewhere.
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Old 01-19-2018, 05:50 PM   #16
rafhelp
 
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Thanks very useful

it lists both o2 and AFR sensor
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_200...html?hl=89467B

but part number of AFR sensor matches the one on the part i took out.

I was told it has 2 o2 sensors pre and post at
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:24 PM   #17
rafhelp
 
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hey i found this
https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-an-Oxygen-Sensor
is it worth a try
i guess you would have to make sure the petrol on the sensor is dried off fully but how long would that take before putting back in?
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:29 PM   #18
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The typical design I see on Toyota's at least is the bank 1 sensor before the catalytic converter is an AFR sensor and the bank 2 sensor after the cat is a standard zirconia oxygen sensor. Toyota have been using that method on some of their other vehicles since the early 2000's but it looks like the Yaris only just got that treatment.

Another good site with similar capabilities is www.partsouq.com which has the annotated parts diagrams along with the part numbers and it looks like not only does your NSP90 model have a 1NR-FE engine according to the parts numbers it also looks like the bank 1 sensor is an AFR sensor and the rear sensor is a standard O2.

AFR sensors are kind of weird. Instead of oscillating between 0-1V the Toyota ones in a normal functioning engine will show around 3.3V although the voltage doesn't actually exist the ECU generates that value for the scan tool but they are actually creating a tiny amount of current that the ECU measures but that would be virtually impossible to measure externally. At least that's my understanding.
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