dc headers? what year?

[bebeelo]

Newbie in the forum. I have a 2012 se yaris. I want to get a dc header but idk what year i should get. I only saw dc headers that fit 06-09. Btw does anyone know if its better to instal it at a shop or is it something that i can do myself?

[WeeYari]

Originally Posted by bebeelo

I only saw dc headers that fit 06-09.

Since the 2010-2011 was exactly the same car as the 2009, this tells you how diligent aftermarket companies are in updating their product details. As far as I know, there are no issues installing a pre-2012 header.

Can you do it yourself? Yes, if you are so mechanically inclined. Space is tight, but a header swap is very straight forward. Hardest part is often removing the O2 sensor, but that is usually because people are performing this mod on cars that have been running for several years.

[1.5]

A member on here has installed I think the weapon r header on his '12 and that header was from an 06+. So I can imagine if that header bolts right up then the dc should as well.

Its not that hard of an install. If you are on stock wheels/suspension you might not even need to jack the car up. Just slide under and undo the bolts using a socket with extension and then the same on the top. I think it has 2 bolts hoding the heat shield from the top only, and then like 3 bolts holding the header from above and 2 from below or something like that. Just Make sure to unplug your 02 sensor and dont bang it around. Other than that it is pretty easy. I didn't even need to install a defouler and my dc header has been on for almost a year.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by 1.5

A member on here has installed I think the weapon r header on his '12 and that header was from an 06+. So I can imagine if that header bolts right up then the dc should as well.

Yup, I was the first lab rat to try an early year 2nd gen 07-11 listed header on a gen3 2012, and it fit like a glove.

[1.5]

There ya go OP

-Thanks Tooter

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by tooter

Yup, I was the first lab rat to try an early year 2nd gen 07-11 listed header on a gen3 2012, and it fit like a glove.

I think we beat you by about six months... Had the DC header on a 2012 before the first of the year. *posted the pic a few days later.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=22

[BEEF]

I did the Weapon-R on my 2008 and it was actually really easy. I took off the cowl to get to it better. it is actually really easy to take off the cowl.

I did the bolts on the end of the header (bolted to the cat) and a buddy of mine did the bolts on the motor. he did them all from the top. taking off the cowl makes it a lot easier to get to stuff.

it really didn't take that much time to do and it is really noticeable.

the weapon-r is quite a bit cheaper so you may want to consider that. there again, some people would probably disagree.

****edit****
you can also get the O2 sensor off after the header is out and a closed wrench actually goes over the connector.

[suckerface]

Originally Posted by BEEF

you can also get the O2 sensor off after the header is out and a closed wrench actually goes over the connector.

+1 This is what I did with a buddy. My only panic moment was putting the new ARP studs in, I thought I dropped a nut into the valve on the back of the engine. Made my buddy finish the install at that point.

[1.5]

lol what a scare ^^

DC is considerably more expensive and word on the street is the two headers provide different gains which theoretically should be true based on the 4-1 vs 4-2-1 design differences. I dont know if there are any dyno's proving this but I can say the dc header is beastly/loud/ and gives pretty good midrange gains.

[BEEF]

the way it was explained to me (a very layman) is that the design doesn't matter because of the overall length. the 4-1 header vs the 4-2-1 (tri-y) are different if they were long tube headers. since they are so short, it is basically a wash. there again, I have no dyno graphs to prove that.

the Weapon-R header is pretty loud by itself and even louder with 2" mandrel bent exhaust.

I was reading and saw where the 4-2-1 was better for midrange torque and a 4-1 is better for top end power. I guess though a better question is how high do the revs need to be to see that top end power. we redline at 6250 so is that even high enough to make a difference. I read the description on a honda forum and guys were redlining at 9k or something. there again, it is the internet, not sure how accurate that description is.

[1.5]

^ exactly. Being shorty headers, I don't know how much of a difference the design would make in whp. I know on my DC which is a 4-1 design, the power gain and sound comes around the 4-5k range.

I used to have a k20 Si coupe and on those apps, a race header added like 10+whp alone and I can attest to the 9k rpm redline, especially if they were running kpro or the hondata ecu reflash. Man I miss those revs.