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Old 03-15-2016, 10:06 AM   #1
tmontague
 
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Gauge Install Q's

Just ordered my glowshift gauges today and I'm hoping to do them this weekend if I can get down to the border to pick them up in time.

I ordered the following:
Oil temp, oil pressure both electrical) and vacuum gauge (mechanical). I got a universal tri swivel pod mount so I can install them in front of my eyesight just behind the steering wheel at a good angle. The gauges are all 52mm and are 7 color with a black background. My plan it to run them on the white color to match the dash of my '08 Yaris.

I've been reading this past gauge DIY http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15233 and it lays everything out well but I have a few Q's to help my install go as smoothly as possible. I'm not new to auto wiring but the more info I have the better.

1. I will be using 2 add a fuse circuits for my constant 12vDC and the switched 12vDC. I will be following the DIY I linked to above but does anyone know what fuse give you switched power and what gives you constant? It was left out and never updated in the DIY. The fuses are Panel 1 and MET but I'm not sure which one is switched and which one is constant.

2. Glowshift gauges have an orange wire that can be (optional) wired to a (+) dashlight wire so that the gauges dim by 30% so they aren't too bright at night. I'd like to use this feature but I'm not sure which wire is a dash lighting positive that i can tap into?

3. Does anyone know of a good spot to go through the fire wall so that i can avoid drilling through it? I'll have 2 wires and one thin tubing (vacuum) to get through the fire wall.

I'll be using hooking the gauges up like a daisey chain and grounding them to the kick panel. I'll be grounding the senders in the engine bay and I'll wrap the wires up in slit tubing to protect it. I also already ordered a sandwich adapter from MicoImage.

I already have grounds running to both ground points (kickpanel and engine bay) from my HID and Keyless entry install. I planned on tapping into those grounds for my gauges to keep the install cleaner. Does anyone see any issue with running my grounds this way?

Any help is appreciated before I do this install.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:42 PM   #2
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Did some more reading today. I think the wire I need to splice for a 12v positive headlight switched is the one listed in my keyless entry diy which was the parking light positive flash (not the negative originally used)

The parking lights stay on even when the headlights are switched on. Someone please shed some light on this wire if they know if this one will work or not.

I'll be taking a look tomorrow for a pre drilled hole in the fire wall as well as testing the fuses and wire to see if they're switched or constant.
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:13 AM   #3
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Bump, c'mon now someone's gotta know something based on how many of you have aftermarket gauges/wi experience
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Old 03-16-2016, 03:44 PM   #4
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There's two good firewall grommets that i personally know of, drivers side one is above the brake master cylinder and the other is the main wiring grommet far under the brake master cylinder.

The top small grommet is easiest access from the engine bay but a real pain to find it inside the cabin, and the main grommet is a pain to access through the engine bay but easiest to inside the cabin if that makes any sense. If you still can't find them, let me know ill take a few quick pictures.

The power source i have nothing for, only can offer you a different option. Tap into the cigarette lighter, simple and easy access for install. Of course the issues with that is that the gauge lighting will be on during the day but you wont even notice its on, unless you have tints darker than heck and no dimming option.

After a quick look in the 2013 owners manual, MET: Gauges and meters so my assumption is this one is on as soon as ACC power is on, PANEL:Gauges and meters, instrument panel lights, switch illumination.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:25 PM   #5
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What about using the dimmer lighting from the radio?
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:31 PM   #6
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Thanks for the reply. I just got in from tinkering for an hour to set everything up for this weekend (should be at my PO box by Friday).

I found a large grommet that had a large wiring loom going through it. This was located once I removed the battery and was virtually impossible to even see. It is located very high on the firewall just under the wiper cowling and enters the cabin above the clutch pedal.

I ended up being able to fish a coat hanger through it and have left it in there tucked out of the way so I can tape my wire and vacuum tube to it to pull them through when I install them this weekend. That took a darn long time to do though. I couldn't find any other grommets from either side of the fire wall, but this one is in a great location so it should be fine.

As for wiring I need the following:
12v ignition switched
12v constant
12v positive switched to dash lighting (this causes the gauges to dim for night driving
And a ground.

I used a multimeter and found the following:
MET fuse is 12v ignition
Panel 1 fuse is 12v parking light switched (dash lighting)
OBD2 fuse is constant 12v power.

The last Q I now have is: Is it fine to use the OBD 2 fuse for my add a fuse for constant power? Or is it better to just tap into a constant power wire I already have connected to the wire box above the fuse panel that is being used for my keyless entry? I could just tap it and add an inline fuse. I'm not sure of which would be better or does it matter?

I'm assuming I should use as small amperage as I can find for the add a fuse and/or inline fuse?

I will be using add a fuses on the MET fuse and Panel 1 fuse and i'm just not sure what source to use for constant power, either OBD 2 fuse or wire i've got plug into the wire panel under the dash - you can see if here in this thread http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55973. It's the wire that has a female prong attached to the upper male prong labelled as constant 12v power.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTS View Post
What about using the dimmer lighting from the radio?
These gauges from glowshift I purchased are different than traditional gauges. Hooking them up to a dimmer would cause them to flicker.

traditional gauge wiring:
-12v ignition swithed (for working power)
-12v dash lighting switched (for illumination)
-wire from sender unit
-ground

Glowshift gauges 7 color gauges (can't remember the model I purchased)
-12v constant (for gauge color selection memory, I believe)
-12v ignition switched (for working power)
-12v+ dashlight switched (to dim the gauges 30% at night)
-wire from sender
-ground

from my understanding the gauges have their own built in relay which hence the constant power. The gauge is always illuminated but you can choose to dim it at night to be easier on your eyes when the dash lighting is turned on (optional, but not necessary for gauge to function properly).
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:18 AM   #8
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Anyone know what size fuse tap will fit in the Yaris fuse box near the OBD plug?

I know our fuses are low profile mini fuses but I'm not sure if that will fit in the fuse box or if I should just use a regular mini fuse type fuse tape for extra clearance
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:44 PM   #9
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Got the install done, took most of the weekend due to two major issues I wasn't expecting to have to deal w/.

1. The sandwich plate I bought from MI came with a messed up thread where I was putting my plug. I has 3 holes and I only needed two but the one I wanted to plug would not properly thread like the other two did.

2. Getting vacuum tubing and electrical wires through the fire wall grommet together is impossible. Save yourself the time and feed them through individually and do not even bother trying the put plastic protection tubing around the wires going through the fire wall. The tubing won't fit either.

I'll post images after this weekend. Currently the gauges work awesome and are properly installed and wrapped. I have a few small oil drips each night from the sandwich plate. One is from the plug that isn't properly threaded and the other is where the plate meets the engine block.

The plate has a wide flat type washer that fits into grooves on the plate on one side and flat against the block on the other. I have it tightened down quite a bit and I can see the o ring coming out the sides so I believe it may be a few turns too tight.

I just purchased a 1/8 NPT tap so I'll be running down the threads this weekend as they aren't in terrible shape, just a bit flat. I also bought a 1/8 NPT plug since the allen bolts that came with the kit are soft and strip extremely easy. In hindsight since a 4.5mm allen wrench was a bit loose and a 5mm wouldn't fit, I should've tried SAE sizes, maybe that was the issue.

Either way I now have one with a normal hex head that I will be able to tighten down properly .

For my constant 12v I just used a quick tap to my already wired constant 12v (for my keyless entry) and then ran an inline fuse on it.

I used mini sized add a fuses not the low profile mini size that is found in our fuse box under the dash. This is due to some people having clearance issues on other car forums and I didn't want to have to go all the way back to the store to get another size if they didn't fit. The mini size fits fine, they just pop out a little further than the low profile ones.

For the located in Southern Ontario, go to Princess auto for your aut electrical stuff, stay away from CT. Add a fuse @CT=$16.50. Add a fuse @ PA=$5.99

I'll keep this thread updated as I fix what needs to be fixed.

As a side, It's crazy how long oil takes to get up to operating temp. This morning it was about -1C and it took about 15mins to get to 170F and that was about 13mins on the highway at 120km/h. Oil also cools down a lot quicker than I thought it would.

I'm also surprised at how much the oil pressure fluctuates. On the highway it is around 80-85 psi and at isle with oil at operating temp it is down to around 16-20 psi.
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