Engine turns over but doesn’t start on a Yaris VVTi

[Bluevitz-rs]

The other issue might be a stuck VVTi actuator in the advanced position. It would cause too much overlap and vent compression back into the intake on the compression stroke.

[YarisVVTi2002]

Hi everybody, I'm back! I never got to find the cause of the non-starting problem in my Yaris last year, so I left it over the winter. I changed the VVTi solenoid / actuator in the spring and tried to start it and it worked almost immediately, I tried putting the old one back in (as I couldn't see anything wrong with it) and the car still worked. I've run it intermittently over the summer with the new solenoid in without any problems. I don't think the cause is the solenoid. I didn't use it for while but now that the cold weather has started the Yaris is back to the same problem as before and doesn't start but turns over OK. Nothing was done on it between when it was starting and when it was not.

I put in some cold start spray into the air inlet and it almost started for a second.

I've checked a few obvious things: there is a decent spark on all the plugs, fuel is getting through but the compression is low (5 bar / 75psi) . The battery is fully charged. It's had new plugs, air & oil filter and new oil.

I've plugged in the OBD and no error codes show up.

We never solved the problem last year and the current symptoms are the same. My best guess is something temperature or fuel related.

Any ideas anyone?

[miiser]

Originally Posted by YarisVVTi2002

Hi everybody, I'm back! I never got to find the cause of the non-starting problem in my Yaris last year, so I left it over the winter. I changed the VVTi solenoid / actuator in the spring and tried to start it and it worked almost immediately, I tried putting the old one back in (as I couldn't see anything wrong with it) and the car still worked. I've run it intermittently over the summer with the new solenoid in without any problems. I don't think the cause is the solenoid. I didn't use it for while but now that the cold weather has started the Yaris is back to the same problem as before and doesn't start but turns over OK. Nothing was done on it between when it was starting and when it was not.

I put in some cold start spray into the air inlet and it almost started for a second.

I've checked a few obvious things: there is a decent spark on all the plugs, fuel is getting through but the compression is low (5 bar / 75psi) . The battery is fully charged. It's had new plugs, air & oil filter and new oil.

I've plugged in the OBD and no error codes show up.

We never solved the problem last year and the current symptoms are the same. My best guess is something temperature or fuel related.

Any ideas anyone?

Fuel pump?


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[white89gt]

How do you know fuel is getting through? Is it making it into the combustion chamber?

[KimmoKekki]

Did you make that brake cleaner test back then ???
My car pulled off fuelpump's pressure neck seal 3 weeks ago !
Fuel still flowed back to tank but there was no pressure to fire up .... With brake cleaner it fired up immediately !


Lähetetty minun ONEPLUS A5000 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[jra]

Sounds like something temperature related, maybe a coolant or air temp. sensor giving ecm wrong info? The EGR valve can cause trouble, but Toyota's have very little trouble with them.

[YarisVVTi2002]

I've checked out the fuel system at last.
I took out the fuel pump and sender unit (located under a cover under the back seat). The fuel filter was clean and pump ran fine when connected to 12V. I then took out the complete fuel rail with injectors connected and turned it over with just one injector connector plugged in at a time - they all had a good stream of fuel shooting out of them. So it doesn't seem to be a problem with the fuel system!!
I'm waiting to get some new injector gaskets before reconnecting the fuel rail - it's really hard to find any for sale.
Perhaps I'll start looking at the inlet manifold, and clean throttle, EGR valve, IAC valve etc?

[YarisVVTi2002]

This has to be one of the craziest problems ever. I still can’t find any reason for the Yaris not starting.
In summary:
When the engine is cranked:
1. There are good sparks produced on the spark plugs
2. There is a good spray of fuel from all 4 fuel injectors

I have cleaned the PCV valve and disconnected the catalytic converter inlet pipe but it still doesn’t start. No DTC errors come up on the OBD module but I have enclosed a screenshot of the OBD live data screen when the engine is turned over. I notice that the air flow rate during cranking is between 0.2 -1.43 g/s, this seems quite low? We now know there is no blockage in the exhaust and even if the air filter is removed it won’t start.
Last autumn the car stopped starting but started again without doing anything major to it this summer, now it’s stopped starting again as before.
What do people think? Is there anything that should be checked? Timing, ECU?

[YarisVVTi2002]

Any more ideas anyone? The Yaris is still the same; not starting.

[yaris2011-07]

Originally Posted by YarisVVTi2002

Hi everybody, I'm back! I never got to find the cause of the non-starting problem in my Yaris last year, so I left it over the winter. I changed the VVTi solenoid / actuator in the spring and tried to start it and it worked almost immediately, I tried putting the old one back in (as I couldn't see anything wrong with it) and the car still worked. I've run it intermittently over the summer with the new solenoid in without any problems. I don't think the cause is the solenoid. I didn't use it for while but now that the cold weather has started the Yaris is back to the same problem as before and doesn't start but turns over OK. Nothing was done on it between when it was starting and when it was not.

I put in some cold start spray into the air inlet and it almost started for a second.

I've checked a few obvious things: there is a decent spark on all the plugs, fuel is getting through but the compression is low (5 bar / 75psi) . The battery is fully charged. It's had new plugs, air & oil filter and new oil.

I've plugged in the OBD and no error codes show up.

We never solved the problem last year and the current symptoms are the same. My best guess is something temperature or fuel related.

Any ideas anyone?

75 psi is low for a 1.5L engine...I suspect it may also be low for a 1.3L engine.

The link below states that minimum compression should be 156 psi

http://workshop-manuals.com/toyota/y...ons/page_1821/

Try following the HINT instructions:

HINT:
^

If adding oil increases the compression, the piston rings and/or cylinder bore may be worn or damaged.

^

If the pressure stays low, the valve may be stuck or seated improperly, or there may be leakage from the gasket.