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Old 08-13-2011, 09:52 PM   #55
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I took the easy route. Got the factory power pkg for $1280 back in '08 when I bought my car. Money well spent with factory warr and parts!
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:22 AM   #56
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Help for a newb

I'm in the process of going from completely manual to power locks. My question is if my car has none of the lock/unlock wire in the 20 pin connector, do I need to tap in there or can I just run the wires straight from the power lock "brain" to the actuators?

Thanks.
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:33 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by thorasaurus View Post
I'm in the process of going from completely manual to power locks. My question is if my car has none of the lock/unlock wire in the 20 pin connector, do I need to tap in there or can I just run the wires straight from the power lock "brain" to the actuators?

Thanks.
You can just run them straight through. There is no reason to go through the hassle of adding the OEM wiring, when it is just going to connect to aftermarket equipment.
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:09 PM   #58
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Thanks for the quick response. I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way but for now I got the extra wiring at Autozone and should be ready for an afternoon of fun
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:44 PM   #59
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And back with more questions...

Okay, I've hit my first wall. I'm using the Black Widow 852 kit by the way in case it needs referenced. Install manual here (http://www.blackwidowsecurity.com/in...%20Install.pdf).

I'm not trying anything fancy, just running the wires straight to the actuators that came with the kit. I've tried connecting the common unlock wire (black/green) on the brain to the green wire on the actuator and the common lock wire (blue/black) on the brain to the blue wire on the actuator. The brain clicks and the horn honks (once for lock; twice for unlock) but the actuator doesn't move. I've tried every combination of the other two possible lock and unlock wires and even switch blue/green and the actuator won't move.

Any ideas? I only hooked up one for now because I wanted to make sure the wiring was right. Do I need to hook up the other three for them to work?

Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:55 PM   #60
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Okay, I've hit my first wall. I'm using the Black Widow 852 kit by the way in case it needs referenced. Install manual here (http://www.blackwidowsecurity.com/in...%20Install.pdf).

I'm not trying anything fancy, just running the wires straight to the actuators that came with the kit. I've tried connecting the common unlock wire (black/green) on the brain to the green wire on the actuator and the common lock wire (blue/black) on the brain to the blue wire on the actuator. The brain clicks and the horn honks (once for lock; twice for unlock) but the actuator doesn't move. I've tried every combination of the other two possible lock and unlock wires and even switch blue/green and the actuator won't move.

Any ideas? I only hooked up one for now because I wanted to make sure the wiring was right. Do I need to hook up the other three for them to work?

Thanks.
Are the Violet and Violet/Black connected to +12 and the Brown/Black and White/Black connected to ground?
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:09 PM   #61
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Well I just found out that what I thought was a 12v on the fuse panel was a nothing so I switched the violet/black-violet to one that I think is now 12v. Off to reconnect the brown/brown-black to ground. I'll be right back.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:25 PM   #62
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Weird. I grounded the brown-black/white-black as per the diagram and then hit the remote and nothing happened. So I checked my 12 volt connections and when I unplugged it and plugged it back in, I now have a long horn honk on either button (unlock/lock) instead of the correct horn honks. Maybe I have to reprograme it now. Either way, it's getting late so the horn probably isn't helping the neighborhood. I'll throw in the towel tonight but man I hope I can figure this out by Thursday (inspection).

Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:33 PM   #63
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One more thing. On the recommendation of Dan Q (here), I tapped into a 12v for the power with a spade plug at the fuse box.

For the violet/violet-black I used a different spade plug in the fuse box. Should I instead splice-tap into the one I know for sure is a 12v (i.e. tap the red power wire I already know works)?

Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:32 AM   #64
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One more thing. On the recommendation of Dan Q (here), I tapped into a 12v for the power with a spade plug at the fuse box.

For the violet/violet-black I used a different spade plug in the fuse box. Should I instead splice-tap into the one I know for sure is a 12v (i.e. tap the red power wire I already know works)?

Thanks.
That one spade plug (listed in DqnQ's guide) is a good constant +12V supply. If you are using another, make sure that it actually is live, as some the spades are not. Also, make sure you have a fuse one that connection, as that spade is on a 60A circuit.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:01 AM   #65
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I plan to get the meter out at lunch to check but once I find one 12v constant, I'm just going to link everything up to it with splices. Everything has fuses and I just want to make sure everything is getting power. Either that or I'll tie in one to the 12v on the fuse box and tie the violet/violet-black to the yellow on the ignition. Hopefully something with work.

Thanks as always.
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Old 10-04-2011, 04:05 PM   #66
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Still nothing. Do you think I need to wire relays like this for it to work? LINK
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Old 10-04-2011, 05:14 PM   #67
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Still nothing. Do you think I need to wire relays like this for it to work? LINK
No. It has built in relays. Post pics for me of all of your connections, and we'll get to the bottom of it.
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Old 10-04-2011, 08:23 PM   #68
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Pictures

Onward and upward. I started from scratch so as to make sure all the wires were connected as they should and found that I had not connected the black ground wire (duh).

Anyway, when I finished re-wiring everything, the actuators now work BUT.... both buttons on the remote lock the car when blue/black (brain) is connected to blue (actuator) and green/black (brain) is connected to (green) actuator. If I swap them on the actuator wires, both remote buttons unlock the car. Obviously I want one button to lock and the other to unlock.

I've attached some pictures but at this point I think it's just a right wire, right place issue.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20111004_184806.jpg (120.9 KB, 199 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20111004_184930.jpg (103.4 KB, 195 views)
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Old 10-04-2011, 08:52 PM   #69
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Your +12V connection of the violet wires should be to the top terminal in the connector between the single blue and the huge single black wires.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:06 PM   #70
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From what I can see in the two pics:

Brown/White horn output - OK

Black/Yellow dome light output - OK

Red +12 Power - should be connected along with Violet wires to correct +12 terminal

Yellow Ignition switched +12 - Can't tell from your pic, but it should be connected to the pink wire on the Ignition switch connector.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:06 PM   #71
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Your +12V connection of the violet wires should be to the top terminal in the connector between the single blue and the huge single black wires.
I had it there but there was no power. Weird I know; but there is power at this one so I don't know what to think. As for the red 12v +, I thought it's ok to connect it to the yellow ignition or is that not true?

Thanks, CTScott, you are the man. I'm also consulting the dealer who sold it to me so hopefully between both, I can figure out what's up.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:19 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by thorasaurus View Post
I had it there but there was no power. Weird I know; but there is power at this one so I don't know what to think. As for the red 12v +, I thought it's ok to connect it to the yellow ignition or is that not true?

Thanks, CTScott, you are the man. I'm also consulting the dealer who sold it to me so hopefully between both, I can figure out what's up.
That may be a sedan vs. Lifback wiring difference. Those are actually fuse holders for some features that we don't get in the US. Just make sure that where you connected them to shows +12 with the ignition on or off.

For the red, your module wants to see unswitched power on that wire.
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