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Old 07-06-2012, 11:41 PM   #1
muffin_top
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 103
2012 Audio Upgrade FAQ and Build Log

First off, I'd like to say that I'm always available for help through PM or post in the thread! Our knowledge as a community is invaluable in helping others make good decisions on modifying or upgrading a Yaris/Vitz.

Second, this is a working FAQ and build log. As such you can expect this post to be updated as more information, photos or tricks come along. It will also follow the audio upgrades I have chosen to install in my 2012 Yaris 5 door SE. I don't expect everyone to like my choices in equipment, installation technique or music tastes. Please be kind, I don't mind your constructive criticism as that is how we learn, just try to remain objective for the sake of the community. :)

Head unit removal instructions:

The double-DIN head unit in our Gen 3 Yaris is so easy to remove, my 5 year old could handle it. Seriously. Easy. Stuff.

(I will add removal step by step pics here)

Step 1: Pull outward on the grey textured dash/radio trim on the outer edge of the passenger side, just to the right of the round vent. That end takes some grunt, but once it pops free the remaining clips come loose very easily. Once it is free, put it in a safe place like the hatch area or back seat.

Step 2: Remove the silver painted trim surround with the passenger airbag occupancy telltale by again pulling it loose from the dash. Next, unplug the 5 pin connector from the telltale itself and place it in a safe location.

Step 3: Remove the 4 phillips (10mm hex also) bolts holding the OEM radio to the dash. Unplug all the wiring and place the old radio on your bench so you can harvest its bracketry for your new deck.

See, getting that out wasn't so hard!

After you make your new harness (more info below) and install the brackets to the new head unit, installation is exactly the reverse order.

Parts I have verified will fit a double-DIN deck:

-Scosche TA465B Toyota ISO DIN Brackets
-Metra 95-8202 Toyota Multi DDIN Brackets (rear portion of this kit needs cut off at break line to clear your OEM brackets)

If you are going single DIN I do not know of any kits yet available that are fully compatible with the Gen 3. I'm going to buy a Scosche kit and see if I can make it work in case someone goes this route.

Wiring Instructions:

Note: I'm working with a local installer on figuring out the OEM steering wheel controls using a Metra/Axxess interface and a wiring plug for Gen 2 Prius. I would like to get my steering wheel controls back online and provide clear instructions for other YW members to get theirs going too! More information on that when we figure it out.

Head Unit Wiring

The Gen 3 uses the standard two plug Toyota harness for +12v/Ground/+12v ignition switched/4 speaker outputs.

Depending on how your car is equipped there may also be a second multi-pin harness that has the USB/Aux-IN/Mic/Steering Wheel Controls.

The Scosche TA-02B and Metra 70-1761 harnesses are compatible.

The antenna wire on SAT/HD radio ready cars is rather unusual and neither Scosche nor Metra have an adapter listed at this time. I purchased mine from eBay and it works fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/toyota-radio...c29134&vxp=mtr

Shipping was slow from mainland China, but there are limited options. If someone has a workaround or part number for this, please chime in!!

Also worthy of note; If your car is equipped with tweeters in the "A" pillar, (listed in Toyota-ese as 6 speaker premium) the wiring is different from a standard 4 speaker car. The output from the head unit goes to the tweeter first and then onto the woofer in the door. If you unplug the tweeter, the woofer is going to be dead also. So, keep this in mind if you decide to upgrade to different components and try to utilize the OEM wiring. This attempt will result in much frustration and epic fail. While I'm sure that you could engineer something, keep in mind that these plugs are in the "A" pillar cavity making them difficult to tap into, and the wire is crazy thin, like 20ga or less. It mabye has 5-6 strands of copper, thats it. Don't bother.

Here's the good news. Toyota has the front body/dash harness plugs in nice connector holders in each front kick panel area. While you have the door panel off installing your new speakers take the time to run new speaker wire through the door grommet. Its very easy. Just unplug the three connectors that come from the door through the hole in the lower apron from the holder and fish them out the speakers you just removed. The hole in the apron and requsite hole in the door are plenty big enough to route the wires out easily. Once you have the wires hanging out the speaker opening, just take your wire and push it through the rubber grommet with a section of metal coat hanger or similar MacGuyver like device. Then push the wires back through the openings and plug the connectors back in.

Note: One of the three connectors is a two pin yellow harness for the side impact airbag sensor that is mounted in the lower portion of each front door. As a precaution I STRONGLY reccommend you disconnect the negative battery wire before performing this operation. Of course it goes without saying you're are at your own risk and if you are afraid (and understandably so) you should have this done by a professional. If you decide to perform this on your own also note that the connector has a spring-loaded light grey safety clip that needs to be pushed toward the front of the car to get it loose. When pushed, it comes free easily so don't go using the sledge to get it off. :D

In this pic, you can see the white connector housing and the door harness pulled out of the speaker opening.



I routed two sections of two conductor wire on each side of the car for separate woofer/tweeter upgrade. There is plenty of room under the driver's side scuff plates for extra wiring and even more in the passenger side. In my car I routed the left side speakers and 12v battery cable on the driver's side. On the passenger side I routed 6 channels of RCA's, a standard phone cord for subwoofer gain control, remote turn-on wire, and two pairs of speaker wire for right side woofer/tweeter. As long as you take your time and keep it tidy the scuff plates will snap back on with ease concealing the wiring you just ran.

Here is a pic from underneath with the wiring ran.



Speaker Installation and Door Panel Removal

Getting the door trim panels off is relatively easy. It would have probably been a breeze if I had more upper body strength!

First order of business is getting the power window/door pull trims popped off. No tools needed, just grab the rear most and and pull up... Hard. Once the back pops free work along the outer edge getting the clips freed up until its off. Unplug the wires and set aside in a safe place.



Next three phillips screws will need to be removed. Two were revealed when the window switch bezel was removed and the third is behind the round cover in the door handle pocket.





After the screws are removed you'll need to pull the door panel off the door shell itself. Best place to start is at the bottom center, just below the bulge for the water bottle holder. Your fingers will feel an edge with a slight opening, pull there. Give a nice even tug until the clip pops out. Then work around the perimeter until it's free. Lift up and off until the release/lock cable are revealed. Next you will just need to pop off the door latch/lock cables from the handle. Pull them free from the handle and route the ends out of the holder. They will just sorta dangle there after you take the door panel away. Place the door trim in a safe place while you work on the door.

To remove the OEM speaker you will need a small (1/16th inch or similar) drill bit to take out the rivits securing it to the door. Once you drill out the rivits, unplug the speaker and place it in a box for safe keeping. Now, this is where I suggest you route new speaker wire for the woofer with the instructions above.

The three holes remaining from where you drilled out the rivits will need either speed nuts, threaded inserts (sometimes called rivnuts or timeserts) or some similar fastner to secure your new speaker. The Scosche SAT-6 speaker adapters for other Toyotas work perfectly. Just note that the adapter has many holes and standoffs for different models. See the photo below for reference on which tabs stay and which ones need removed for proper fitment. Also take care to notice that while the adapters are not side specific they do need to be mounted with the writing upside down for the holes to line up. Here I used 10/24 threaded inserts with stainless steel fine thread screws to attach the Scosche SAT-6 adapter and the 6.5" woofer from my JBL P660c componet set.



Note: The front and rear speakers are the same size and have the same opening. So, if you are doing a four speaker upgrade the back doors disassemble the same and reveal the same size speaker. Again, both front and rear doors have a 6.5" speaker!

Update: The speaker opening measures 5 7/8 inches or 150mm. Depth with Scosche SAT6 bracket is 2.8 inches or 72mm, at this depth there is still room for window to move. Its close, but good amount of depth for most descent aftermarket speakers!!

Last edited by muffin_top; 07-09-2012 at 09:34 PM. Reason: Added more information
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:44 AM   #2
muffin_top
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Midwest
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Placeholder for build log portion of thread.

Got started on the false floor and subwoofer enclosure:

Chopped, screwed, glued and bondo'd a quick box for the JBL GTO-804d subs. Just over .75cu^3 of airspace, sealed with caulk and thin layer of fiberglass resin on the inside. The countersunk screw holes on the face were filled with body filler so they won't be seen under the vinyl covering.





After the filler dried, I sanded it smooth with 100 grit on the electric DA and rounded over the top edges by hand with a block and 120 grit. Turned out nice for just two hours invested!






I used the OEM false floor as a template for a new one to house the amplifier and provide a solid base for the sub box. The floor was made of 1/2 particle board with thin L brackets of aluminum underneath to add lateral support. The box will undoubtedly be heavy and I don't want any sagging!!

The amplifier, a JBL GTO-3EZ was chosen for its good power output, relatively compact size and better than average specs for amps in this price range.

The opening for the amp was centered and brought forward a bit to allow clearance for the ledge that holds the floor up. The hole was made just slightly bigger than the outer perimeter of the amp and hand rounded over to allow the vinyl to stretch without wrinkling.








After the floor and opening were completed, I made a quick box to mount the amplifier. The front side was purposely left open for two reasons. First, the ledge that supports the floor is there and comes out about an inch, so the 3/4" board would have made a tight fit. Second, I wasn't sure how hot the amp would get so I made and end cap out of 1/4" ABS plastic with two 1.5" sleeve ball bearing cooling fans that will come on when needed. More on this side project later..



I then wrapped the floor in black vinyl to match the grain of the factory plastic trim and placed it in the hatch for a test fit.












Last edited by muffin_top; 07-09-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:00 AM   #3
CrankyOldMan
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Excellent info! Have you checked the depth clearance against the window regulators yet? I've looked at Crutchfield's selection and they insist on using the opposite sizes of OEM for the previous gen 3DR (5.5 front/6.5 back) to ensure adequate clearance, but they also don't say what that clearance should be.

Interesting choice on the insert nuts. Did you have to enlarge the holes to get enough clearance?
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:21 AM   #4
TPA5
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I wish this would have been around when I was doing my installs, the trial-and-error method is less smooth haha.

Nice write-up! Should be super helpful for folks.
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:58 PM   #5
muffin_top
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Excellent info! Have you checked the depth clearance against the window regulators yet? I've looked at Crutchfield's selection and they insist on using the opposite sizes of OEM for the previous gen 3DR (5.5 front/6.5 back) to ensure adequate clearance, but they also don't say what that clearance should be.

Interesting choice on the insert nuts. Did you have to enlarge the holes to get enough clearance?
The three mounting holes needed to be drilled out just a bit for the threaded inserts to pass through.

Also the mounting depth with the Scosche SAT-6 adapter is about 2.75". Not sure why Crutchfield insists that a 5.25 is needed up front, the hole itself is damn near 6" in diameter!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TPA5 View Post
I wish this would have been around when I was doing my installs, the trial-and-error method is less smooth haha.

Nice write-up! Should be super helpful for folks.
Thanks! I figured that many people don't want to tear into a brand new car without some guidance. At the moment, the internet is somewhat sparse on Gen 3 Yaris information.

Its a crisp 106 degrees right now, so I'll probably do some inside work and update the thread later this evening.

Last edited by muffin_top; 07-09-2012 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:17 PM   #6
muffin_top
 
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Posts: 103
Added more info to both posts.

Thanks!!
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:34 AM   #7
edwardthed
 
Drives: Yaris Hatch yr 2011
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Aus
Posts: 3
Antenna Connector

The antenna wire on SAT/HD radio ready cars is rather unusual and neither Scosche nor Metra have an adapter listed at this time. I purchased mine from eBay and it works fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/toyota-radio...c29134&vxp=mtr

Shipping was slow from mainland China, but there are limited options. If someone has a workaround or part number for this, please chime in!!

I have the same antenna connector that I bought off ebay where do you connect the blue wire? I don't have AM reception FM is good. help please.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:40 PM   #8
Fri
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris
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Very nice.
Did you come across the 12v and 12 volt ignition wire?
I am trying to install a car alarm.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:43 AM   #9
muffin_top
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardthed View Post
The antenna wire on SAT/HD radio ready cars is rather unusual and neither Scosche nor Metra have an adapter listed at this time. I purchased mine from eBay and it works fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/toyota-radio...c29134&vxp=mtr

Shipping was slow from mainland China, but there are limited options. If someone has a workaround or part number for this, please chime in!!

I have the same antenna connector that I bought off ebay where do you connect the blue wire? I don't have AM reception FM is good. help please.
Connect the blue wire to the remote turn on or power antenna wire. It turns on the amplifier thats built into the base of the antenna itself. Its basically amplifies the signal from the aerial and helps with noise generated by electrical devices in the car, ie: rear defroster

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fri View Post
Very nice.
Did you come across the 12v and 12 volt ignition wire?
I am trying to install a car alarm.
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Old 09-30-2012, 02:38 AM   #10
DanMC
 
Drives: 2012 Toyota Yaris
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 100
Hi,do you happen to have some pictures of the old speakers ?...thank you
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:04 AM   #11
DanMC
 
Drives: 2012 Toyota Yaris
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by muffin_top View Post
First off, I'd like to say that I'm always available for help through PM or post in the thread! Our knowledge as a community is invaluable in helping others make good decisions on modifying or upgrading a Yaris/Vitz.

Second, this is a working FAQ and build log. As such you can expect this post to be updated as more information, photos or tricks come along. It will also follow the audio upgrades I have chosen to install in my 2012 Yaris 5 door SE. I don't expect everyone to like my choices in equipment, installation technique or music tastes. Please be kind, I don't mind your constructive criticism as that is how we learn, just try to remain objective for the sake of the community. :)

Head unit removal instructions:

The double-DIN head unit in our Gen 3 Yaris is so easy to remove, my 5 year old could handle it. Seriously. Easy. Stuff.

(I will add removal step by step pics here)

Step 1: Pull outward on the grey textured dash/radio trim on the outer edge of the passenger side, just to the right of the round vent. That end takes some grunt, but once it pops free the remaining clips come loose very easily. Once it is free, put it in a safe place like the hatch area or back seat.

Step 2: Remove the silver painted trim surround with the passenger airbag occupancy telltale by again pulling it loose from the dash. Next, unplug the 5 pin connector from the telltale itself and place it in a safe location.

Step 3: Remove the 4 phillips (10mm hex also) bolts holding the OEM radio to the dash. Unplug all the wiring and place the old radio on your bench so you can harvest its bracketry for your new deck.

See, getting that out wasn't so hard!

After you make your new harness (more info below) and install the brackets to the new head unit, installation is exactly the reverse order.

Parts I have verified will fit a double-DIN deck:

-Scosche TA465B Toyota ISO DIN Brackets
-Metra 95-8202 Toyota Multi DDIN Brackets (rear portion of this kit needs cut off at break line to clear your OEM brackets)

If you are going single DIN I do not know of any kits yet available that are fully compatible with the Gen 3. I'm going to buy a Scosche kit and see if I can make it work in case someone goes this route.

Wiring Instructions:

Note: I'm working with a local installer on figuring out the OEM steering wheel controls using a Metra/Axxess interface and a wiring plug for Gen 2 Prius. I would like to get my steering wheel controls back online and provide clear instructions for other YW members to get theirs going too! More information on that when we figure it out.

Head Unit Wiring

The Gen 3 uses the standard two plug Toyota harness for +12v/Ground/+12v ignition switched/4 speaker outputs.

Depending on how your car is equipped there may also be a second multi-pin harness that has the USB/Aux-IN/Mic/Steering Wheel Controls.

The Scosche TA-02B and Metra 70-1761 harnesses are compatible.

The antenna wire on SAT/HD radio ready cars is rather unusual and neither Scosche nor Metra have an adapter listed at this time. I purchased mine from eBay and it works fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/toyota-radio...c29134&vxp=mtr

Shipping was slow from mainland China, but there are limited options. If someone has a workaround or part number for this, please chime in!!

Also worthy of note; If your car is equipped with tweeters in the "A" pillar, (listed in Toyota-ese as 6 speaker premium) the wiring is different from a standard 4 speaker car. The output from the head unit goes to the tweeter first and then onto the woofer in the door. If you unplug the tweeter, the woofer is going to be dead also. So, keep this in mind if you decide to upgrade to different components and try to utilize the OEM wiring. This attempt will result in much frustration and epic fail. While I'm sure that you could engineer something, keep in mind that these plugs are in the "A" pillar cavity making them difficult to tap into, and the wire is crazy thin, like 20ga or less. It mabye has 5-6 strands of copper, thats it. Don't bother.

Here's the good news. Toyota has the front body/dash harness plugs in nice connector holders in each front kick panel area. While you have the door panel off installing your new speakers take the time to run new speaker wire through the door grommet. Its very easy. Just unplug the three connectors that come from the door through the hole in the lower apron from the holder and fish them out the speakers you just removed. The hole in the apron and requsite hole in the door are plenty big enough to route the wires out easily. Once you have the wires hanging out the speaker opening, just take your wire and push it through the rubber grommet with a section of metal coat hanger or similar MacGuyver like device. Then push the wires back through the openings and plug the connectors back in.

Note: One of the three connectors is a two pin yellow harness for the side impact airbag sensor that is mounted in the lower portion of each front door. As a precaution I STRONGLY reccommend you disconnect the negative battery wire before performing this operation. Of course it goes without saying you're are at your own risk and if you are afraid (and understandably so) you should have this done by a professional. If you decide to perform this on your own also note that the connector has a spring-loaded light grey safety clip that needs to be pushed toward the front of the car to get it loose. When pushed, it comes free easily so don't go using the sledge to get it off. :D

In this pic, you can see the white connector housing and the door harness pulled out of the speaker opening.



I routed two sections of two conductor wire on each side of the car for separate woofer/tweeter upgrade. There is plenty of room under the driver's side scuff plates for extra wiring and even more in the passenger side. In my car I routed the left side speakers and 12v battery cable on the driver's side. On the passenger side I routed 6 channels of RCA's, a standard phone cord for subwoofer gain control, remote turn-on wire, and two pairs of speaker wire for right side woofer/tweeter. As long as you take your time and keep it tidy the scuff plates will snap back on with ease concealing the wiring you just ran.

Here is a pic from underneath with the wiring ran.



Speaker Installation and Door Panel Removal

Getting the door trim panels off is relatively easy. It would have probably been a breeze if I had more upper body strength!

First order of business is getting the power window/door pull trims popped off. No tools needed, just grab the rear most and and pull up... Hard. Once the back pops free work along the outer edge getting the clips freed up until its off. Unplug the wires and set aside in a safe place.



Next three phillips screws will need to be removed. Two were revealed when the window switch bezel was removed and the third is behind the round cover in the door handle pocket.





After the screws are removed you'll need to pull the door panel off the door shell itself. Best place to start is at the bottom center, just below the bulge for the water bottle holder. Your fingers will feel an edge with a slight opening, pull there. Give a nice even tug until the clip pops out. Then work around the perimeter until it's free. Lift up and off until the release/lock cable are revealed. Next you will just need to pop off the door latch/lock cables from the handle. Pull them free from the handle and route the ends out of the holder. They will just sorta dangle there after you take the door panel away. Place the door trim in a safe place while you work on the door.

To remove the OEM speaker you will need a small (1/16th inch or similar) drill bit to take out the rivits securing it to the door. Once you drill out the rivits, unplug the speaker and place it in a box for safe keeping. Now, this is where I suggest you route new speaker wire for the woofer with the instructions above.

The three holes remaining from where you drilled out the rivits will need either speed nuts, threaded inserts (sometimes called rivnuts or timeserts) or some similar fastner to secure your new speaker. The Scosche SAT-6 speaker adapters for other Toyotas work perfectly. Just note that the adapter has many holes and standoffs for different models. See the photo below for reference on which tabs stay and which ones need removed for proper fitment. Also take care to notice that while the adapters are not side specific they do need to be mounted with the writing upside down for the holes to line up. Here I used 10/24 threaded inserts with stainless steel fine thread screws to attach the Scosche SAT-6 adapter and the 6.5" woofer from my JBL P660c componet set.



Note: The front and rear speakers are the same size and have the same opening. So, if you are doing a four speaker upgrade the back doors disassemble the same and reveal the same size speaker. Again, both front and rear doors have a 6.5" speaker!

Update: The speaker opening measures 5 7/8 inches or 150mm. Depth with Scosche SAT6 bracket is 2.8 inches or 72mm, at this depth there is still room for window to move. Its close, but good amount of depth for most descent aftermarket speakers!!
Do you have any pictures or info on stock OEM speakers...like...are they made by FujitsuTen (Eclipse),were they made in Japan...,were they 4 Ohm ?....and without the back plate would it be inposible to install the 6.5" speakers ? ,thank you.
Dan
Dan...
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:01 AM   #12
shrek
 
Drives: 2012 5dr Manual Yaris
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 20
Hi, has there been a confirmed single DIN kit for he gen 3?

This one? http://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-Toyota...2012+yaris+din

Last edited by shrek; 11-21-2012 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:10 PM   #13
muffin_top
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by shrek View Post
Hi, has there been a confirmed single DIN kit for he gen 3?

This one? http://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-Toyota...2012+yaris+din
That is the only single DIN kit I have found so far.

Don't forget your Toyota OEM antenna adapter available at any dealer.

Part number: PT546-00120-AD
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:14 PM   #14
muffin_top
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 103
Back at this..

Major overhaul over version 1.0 with the all JBL setup. It served me well and I was quite satisfied with the quality of sound from basic off the shelf parts. I decided this was the time for all out sound quality and to test my skill set.

This round will be all Scan-Speak drivers with JL XD amps and the new Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 processor controlling the whole setup. The Pioneer AVH-P8400BH remains as the source unit as well as the previous Scosche wiring/interconnects.

Previous attempts at unwanted noise abatement will be built upon with more RAAMaudio RAAMmat, Ensolite and thick MLV/foam in key places. I want to block as much noise as possible without adding too much weight to the car. I will concentrate mostly on the doors, floor and cargo area. At some point the headliner will need to come down for CLD tiles on the roof as it sounds very tinny when it rains.

I started by removing the inside trim from the liftgate and installed RAAMmat CLD tiles over about half of the inside sheetmetal. What a huge difference this made in the feel of the gate when closing/opening. It now has a solid *thud* when it latches. The perimeter of the inside trim panel was treated to long strips of OEM Toyota self-adhesive felt strips to isolate the plastic trim from the metal gate.






Both rear doors were dismantled and ~75% of the inside sheetmetal was covered in RAAMmat CLD tiles to avoid unwanted panel resonance. The stock rear speakers were removed and a layer of thick MLV was used to line the door opening. It is held in place with industrial strength Velcro and strips of Gorilla Tape along the edges. The inside of the trim panels were covered in more RAAMmat, peel-n-stick ensolite and the perimeter covered in OEM Toyota felt tape. The rear doors now sound nicer than an LS460 when they close.. Oh yeah!!





Side note: While I had the door trim apart, I taped off the drip holes at the bottom and applied Tectyl 846 Mil-Spec corrosion preventative spray. Take that Ziebart!!

Here is a quick shot of the new false floor in the car and amps/processor in their new home..


Last edited by muffin_top; 01-26-2013 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:04 PM   #15
sahkoputkimies
 
Drives: Yaris mk3
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Finland
Posts: 3
Nice work

Just interested, have you got any pics of the front doors with the door trim panels removed? Are there big enough openings that installing sound dampening mats could be easily done?

I'm quite happy with the sound of the stock speakers but maybe some Dynamat etc. wouldn't be a bad idea
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:12 PM   #16
muffin_top
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris SE 5MT
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 103
Thanks!!

I think I have some shots of the whole panel off the door. It has a good amount of openings to work in your arms and deadner materials.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:01 PM   #17
Lady J
 
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Will you also be upgrading your subwoofer?say maybe to a 12W6?
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:27 PM   #18
latinhawk
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Location: Orlando, Fl
Posts: 1
Information

I need to replace my radio your post says " (I will add removal step by step pics here)" but I don't see them. I need to knowwhere ttart removing the Trim.
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