Removal of the Factory Integrated Source

[sqcomp]

Here's a fairly complete thread on how to remove your factory equipped source with two relevant YouTube videos and some good pictures to take you step by step in the removal of the factory source.

Here we are looking at the factory source with the four trim panels around it:



Go ahead and give some smart elbow grease to the trim panels that surround the source housing and the atmospheric controls:

















Make sure you're gentle enough with these pieces. They are very good quality but after a while of putting them on and taking them off, you'll have some wear on the non-reinforced friction clips to consider. I pull the trim pieces off from the bottom up, giving it only as much force as I can regulate to pull the panels off.

This last picture was with the cluster trim left. Use the same care as you did with the other trim pieces. When it comes off, turn it over and notice the very specific friction clips that slide into the top of the source bezel. BE CAREFUL with these! They are "flimsy"! If you pull that piece UP instead of OUT and then UP...you'll start cursing after losing some of the more flimsy friction clips.

We're now looking at the four bolts that mount the source to the car, two on the left (upper and lower) and two on the right (upper and lower):





Removal of said bolts:











No bolts left, you have a harness at the top that connects the clock/trip meter/emergency lights to disconnect. Note to self, have a small flat blade screwdriver to assist yourself in removing the harness clips:





Notice there are four pink clips on both sides of the source. Use the flathead to coax those out of the housings:





Now, with that harness removed, you can pull the radio out. Notice the antenna wire and the three factory harnesses that need to be removed:



Small bladed screwdriver to the rescure and this is what you see from the back of the source:



...and from the console of the car:



Something important to note. You'll obviously need the vents in your next bezel. I have pictures of the removal of the removed vent but...

There are eight clips that hold the vents into the bezel. You have four upper and four lower. I would have posted those pictures up but with the little handheld camera I'm using, they really didn't come out well. So I'll have to just inform you about these.

I removed the clips, upper first. The lower ones are in between the source and the vents. They are a good bit tricky to get to (at least the center two). You get to them using that same small flat blade screwdriver. The trick is to get them and keep them removed while you're working on the other clips. It took me a few minutes but I managed it. If I can do it, you can too. Just don't get too frustrated. You might think of something to keep the clips off the teeth while you work the others. I'm sure I can add more about this...

Here are the videos of the removal of the factory integrated source and wiring harness work:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7N2Y5YIdoL8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xySrP...eature=related

All of this work allows you to use the 2 DIN bezel that you can source online or from your local Toyota dealer; yes I know, the first picture is fuzzy. You can see that it says panel sub assembly and then the part number (55405-52640):





This should be fairly complete. If you have any questions, you know who to ask! Remember, use a little bit of finesse and a bit of patience. You'll tank yourself in the long run.

[Herbicidal]

Excellent write up! The pictures answered some questions I had about the wiring harness on the back of the stock HU.

With my car 1/2 torn apart, I'm still toying with getting a small amp to power my new speakers. Since the wires coming from the back of the stock HU are pretty thin, will running the same gauge wires to an amp help me all that much? Even if I upgrade the wires to a lower gauge (smaller the number the thicker wire right?) from the back of the HU to an amp, I'm still starting out with thinner wire. So, would it be best to run thicker wire from the amp to the speakers? I read somewhere else here on Yaris World that I may need a 'line out converter' and an 'amp wiring kit', anything else?

Hopefully it's OK to ask these questions in this thread. At this time I am not replacing the HU which I know would simplify everything.

Thanks!

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Excellent write up! The pictures answered some questions I had about the wiring harness on the back of the stock HU.

With my car 1/2 torn apart, I'm still toying with getting a small amp to power my new speakers. Since the wires coming from the back of the stock HU are pretty thin, will running the same gauge wires to an amp help me all that much? Even if I upgrade the wires to a lower gauge (smaller the number the thicker wire right?) from the back of the HU to an amp, I'm still starting out with thinner wire. So, would it be best to run thicker wire from the amp to the speakers? I read somewhere else here on Yaris World that I may need a 'line out converter' and an 'amp wiring kit', anything else?

Hopefully it's OK to ask these questions in this thread. At this time I am not replacing the HU which I know would simplify everything.

Thanks!

The speaker wires coming from an amp into into the speaker don't have to be thick to be good. Those wires carry a high voltage, low amperage signal.

Amperage is what causes heat issues in car audio, not high voltage. you could run a sub with 2000watts of power and 22awg wire and be perfectly fine and not see a decrease in volume (due to loss of power).

the power & ground cables however are high amperage low voltage, so they produce heat, and have to be big, or else you'll run into diminishing returns & even safety issues due to loss of power in the form of heat in the wire (which can start car fires).

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

The speaker wires coming from an amp into into the speaker don't have to be thick to be good. Those wires carry a high voltage, low amperage signal.

Amperage is what causes heat issues in car audio, not high voltage. you could run a sub with 2000watts of power and 22awg wire and be perfectly fine and not see a decrease in volume (due to loss of power).

the power & ground cables however are high amperage low voltage, so they produce heat, and have to be big, or else you'll run into diminishing returns & even safety issues due to loss of power in the form of heat in the wire (which can start car fires).

I sure don't want a car fire! I've been looking at some of the amp wiring kits at Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix and they all seem to come with heavy gauge power and ground leads. Plus they include decent size gauge wire from the amp to the speakers.

Also, from what I gather is that a line output converter would simplify connecting my stock HU to the amp, correct? Like this example from Scosche.

Thanks for the help!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Also, from what I gather is that a line output converter would simplify connecting my stock HU to the amp, correct? Like this example from Scosche.
Thanks for the help!

Yes, a LOC would do it, if you choose Scosche go to Walmart only $17

Sqcomps recommended me [I do too.] these:

MTX-re-Q for subwoofer only, but if you in the future want to add an amp for your speakers go for:
MTX Re-Q5

I'm going towards changing to a HU...

.

[yesthatcourtney]

This is exactly what I've been looking for. Can I ask if you know of a source online for the center bezel? I can't find any on the sites I've found, and I have inquired at my local dealership, but at their prices they're a bit of a final stop, you know?

[sleey0]

I used a stinger LOC from Amazon and it was about $10. Works like a charm:)

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGN11-...2613035&sr=8-1

[sqcomp]

I have the part number up in one of the pictures for the bezel piece