2008 Yaris sedan ‘S’ sound deadening project.

[derickveliz2]

I'm curious to see how your speakers go with the speaker adapters you got, since I'm going to use the 6.5 that goes in the door as a mid-bass I'm going back in there to beef things up and may replace the OEM adapter for one like yours and probably have to use a spacer.

good job!

[Herbicidal]

Thanks! I'll post up some pics and comments when I get there.

[Herbicidal]

I have completed what I'm calling stage 1. The car is completely back together but only with sound to the rear speakers. I have deadened everything from the front of the base of the rear seat to the trunk and everything in-between. The noise reduction based upon the sound level of my exhaust is quite dramatic! I still hear the exhaust, but it is a pleasant, underlying, background sort of sound. Having conversations in the car is much easier, I'm hearing instruments in the music that I have not heard before. Probably due to both the upgrade in speakers and the sound deadening. Now I can hear outside noise coming through the doors and little shifting sounds up on the headliner and I think from the back left and right corners of the car. The exhaust now exits in the center so I think that's why I can kind of hear it from both sides. At the moment, I did not put down any Ensolite in the trunk, it's just RAAMmat. If I have any Ensolite leftover once I'm done with the doors, I'm going to do the trunk.

I'm VERY happy with the results so far and I look forward to doing the doors. I should be able to start on them this weekend!

Oh yeah, after ordering a new bolt for the rear seat (yes, had to order it) I found the missing one stuck to a piece of RAAMmat in the car! Sheesh! That's the way it goes sometimes.

On to stage 2 - doors and front speakers!!!

[Herbicidal]

This past weekend I was finally able to tackle the drivers side door. Woohoo! This door is now 'dead'! Not a rattle, squeak or noise out of it when it's shut. Just a nice solid - thud. My Father-in-laws Lexus has nothing on my door! With all the sound deadening, I've basically made the door a speaker box. I'm quite anxious to hear how it will sound. I made sure not to block the drain holes at the very bottom, in-side edge of the door. Also, the door panel had some hard foam door stiffeners that I was able to trim very easily by taking a hack saw blade out of the hack saw and cut through them by holding the blade in my hand. In the end, I had to totally remove the largest foam piece as it used to fit through an opening in the door, but I blocked the opening with sound deadening material.

Here's a photo montage of what I did for just the one door. Now to repeat on the passenger side and then the rear doors. It is alot of effort, but I'm already "hearing" the difference. The car is noticeably more 'solid' and quiet.

Door panel off. My work is cut out for me.


Drilling out the rivets that held in the factory door speaker.


Old speaker removed. You can just see the rubber boot where the wiring harness goes through the door.


The dreaded rubber boot that I needed to get the new speaker wire through.


Coat hanger with speaker wire taped to it. My first effort failed. I redid the taping job and put some Vasoline on the wire and that time it worked!


New speaker wire routed through the rubber door boot. Yeah, that was fun!


Close up of RAAMmat inside the door shell. With the large openings, I was able to deaden 95% of the inside of the door.


RAAMmat fully applied within the door shell.


Plastic panels secured with small sheet metal screws to cover the access holes.


Close up of the speaker opening with the RAAMmat applied inside. That's the bottom edge of the window. Just testing to make sure everything worked correctly after applying the deadening material.


Speaker opening with RAAMmat behind the Ensolite. A small square of it sits behind the speaker, per the instructions on RAAMaudio.com


RAAMmat applied on all available surfaces. Crossover for the Kicker speaker and tweeter is in the lower left with the cover off. The new speaker is mounted in the door using speaker adapters. Perfect fit!


This is one dead door! The final layer is sound deadening Ensolite foam. I made sure to stay back about 1" from all the edges so that the door panel would fit back on correctly.


Kicker tweeter (back view) installed in small plastic window panel. Had to use a 2" hole saw to cut the hole in the panel.


Kicker tweeter (front view) installed in small plastic window panel.


Door panel back on and the Kicker tweeter mounted in mirror cover panel. There is a beveled housing that allows the tweeter to be mounted at an angle. I may need to adjust the angle again when dialing everything in.


On to the passenger door! Once that's done, I can connect up my front speakers and finally have all the speakers working again.

[DailyDriver]

Looks awesome! I can't wait to deaden my doors! Thanks for the pics.

[Herbicidal]

Thanks DailyDriver and you're welcome! It is nice to see what needs to be done ahead of time. Derick's photos in his sound deadening thread helped me quite a bit too.

Well I couldn't wait any longer! I HAD to hook up the front speakers to hear how they sound even though the front passenger door isn't deadened yet. After about 2 hours worth of work, I had the new speaker/tweeter/crossover (the crossover location is temporary, but works for now) installed and hooked up to the amp. WOW!!! I LOVE it! The highs are so crisp it feels like you could cut paper! However, that front passenger door is begging for mercy! There are some rattles (of course) and noises that will be killed once I deaden that door. The drivers door is very tight and the mid's just punch through! This clearly demonstrated the value of sound deadening. With a 3-day weekend coming up, I should be able knock off that passenger door and maybe even the rear doors!

On another note (no pun intended) this morning on the drive into work I had a guy in a Toyota T-100 catch up to me on the inside lane and as he pulled slightly ahead I could see a thumbs up coming from him. Did he hear my music too? Nah....but it made me .

[centrysis]

I also pulled new wiring through that boot in the front door. My wire puller didnt want to go through until i dipped it into a tube of lithium grease. Then it went no problem.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by centrysis

I also pulled new wiring through that boot in the front door. My wire puller didnt want to go through until i dipped it into a tube of lithium grease. Then it went no problem.

Yeah, trying to pull it through the rubber boot was tough with no lube. OK, not going there...

On another note, I completed the deadening on the front passenger door and the right rear passenger door, just one more to go!!!! Pics are still on the camera.

And ya'll may have seen my post about needing another amp for a subwoofer. I'm this close to pulling the trigger on a mono Eclipse amp, Alpine Type R 10" sub and a box for the sub. THAT should round out the system nicely!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Make sure that the amp is pushing no less than 500 watts. My Alpine M450 is underpowering my Type R (only 400 watts). What kind of box are you getting? If you want a sealed box, I'll sell you mine as I want a vented/ported box now.

[sqcomp]

Be careful with the vented enclosure. I've seen a lot of people kill woofers with less power on a vented application. With with all due respect to taln and his love for vented enclosures, he is a small minority of people who can control themselves with the voltage potentiometer.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Really? hmmm, so if the Type R (10") is rated at 500 watts, and the ported box that I'm looking at is the max volume rating for it, would that cause any problems?

[Herbicidal]

From my other thread about asking whether I needed another amp to power a woofer, here is what I'm looking at now based upon recommendations by Alien Mantis. I would run the Eclipse XA1200 from the pre-outs on my current Eclipse amp. He also suggested setting the amp for 2 ohms:

Eclipse XA1200600W Max, XA Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier (XA-1200) for $129 at Sonic.
Product Features:XA Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier with ICE Technology
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 350 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 600 watts
MOSFET switching power supply
ICEpower class D design
Wired remote bass level control included
LED power indicators
Bass Boost (0-8 dB at 50 Hz)
Bass boost frequency selection (32-64 Hz)
Mono channel operation
Protection temperature (90 C)
Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink
RCA level inputs
Screw terminals
Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, Linkwitz Riley 18 dB/octave)
Subsonic Filter (18 dB at 20 Hz)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 20-20,000 Hz
Input sensitivity: 1.2V-8V
Damping Factor: 90
Dimensions: 10-1/4"L x 10-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H
4-gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation.




Alpine SWR-1042D (TYPE R)10" Dual 4 ohm Type-R Subwoofer for $99:


Sonic Sub Box: 1SV10 (BLACK CARPET)Single 10" Vented MDF Enclosure for $29.99:

[swidd]

Uh, I'll be driving the Type R 10" 1042D with 300W at, I believe, 2ohms, from the Alpine PDX-5, in a sealed 0.7cubic box. While I don't worry about SPL, could this hurt the sub?

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Really? hmmm, so if the Type R (10") is rated at 500 watts, and the ported box that I'm looking at is the max volume rating for it, would that cause any problems?

probably not, as long as you keep with the Alpine reccomendations it should be fine... Companies make recommendations so that customers won't be blowing subs left and right....

If you stray from those recommendations however you may start to run into mechanical limitations of the moving parts... if you start hearing a slapping noise (like metal on metal or a hammer) at all you need to turn it down ASAP. i'm not sure if you'd head the former slap the back plate first, or if the spider would start to tear first.

be nice to the sub, listen for distortion, distortion is your best warning that your sub is running out of steam.

[Herbicidal]

I have reached another milestone!!! All four doors are now sound deadened!!!! Woohoo!!! Pic's are still on the camera, I'll download and post them up later. I used up all my RAAMmat, but I have a ton of Ensolite leftover, so next I will lay the foam on top of the RAAMmat in the trunk area in preparation for whatever subwoofer I end up with. Waay back at the begining, I only did the RAAMmat in the trunk, not knowing how much Ensolite I was going to use for the doors and under the rear seat. I ended up buying more Ensolite, so now I have PLENTY to do the trunk.

[derickveliz2]

Looking good!

It's nice to see a project like this grow and been done!

D.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

Looking good!

It's nice to see a project like this grow and been done!

D.

Thanks Derick! Well, almost done. Still need to do the trunk area with the Ensolite and decide on the amp and subwoofer. But I'm darn close!

[Herbicidal]

After completing the front passenger door, I was starting to run out of RAAMmat. I had only six 15" squares left, so I divided them up amongst the rear doors. I wasn't able to cover them as fully as the front doors, but since they don't have speakers, I wasn't as concerned. I do have plenty of the sound deadening Ensolite foam, so I put that on as thick as I dared. Too thick and the door panels would not fit back on correctly. All four doors are now "dead". You can rap on the outside and it's just a 'thud' vs a hollow sound. Since I have quite a bit of the Ensolite sound deadening foam, I'm going to go back to the trunk area and line it with the Ensolite. Right now it's just covered in the RAAMmat. Then I'll need to try the decibel meter again and see what it reads. To my ears, it is quieter inside and not nearly as much road and exhaust noise makes it's way into the cabin. The stereo sounds better than ever with the new front Kicker speakers and tweeters, plus the new Alpine Type R's in the rear. Now to decide on another amp and subwoofer.

Here's the rest of the pictures from this weekends efforts:

Getting started on the left rear passenger door.


Close up of the RAAMmat on the inside of the door panel.


Left rear passenger door. RAAMmat stuck to the inside of the door.


Plastic signs trimmed to fit and covering up the large holes in the door.


Left rear passenger door with RAAMmat in various places. I was just about out of it and to be selective on where I placed it.


Left rear passenger is done!


I added some Ensolite to the inside of the door panel for good measure. It's the black material.


Starting on the right front passenger door. The plastic weather piece is already stripped off and I've placed RAAMmat inside the door on the inner panel.


I had to buy some more plastic signs to fill the rather large holes in the door before I could lay down the RAAMmat on this side of the door panel. Figuring out what size they needed to be.


Signs all in place held by small sheet metal screws. Now I can lay the RAAMmat onto of everything and seal them up.


RAAMmat covering everything! Next is the Ensolite.


Right front passenger door is done! Tweeter mounted in the plastic panel near the mirror. New Kicker speaker mounted in the door along with the crossover.


Getting started on the right rear passenger door.


More inexpensive plastic signs to cover the holes with. Then I put the RAAMmat and Ensolite in layers on the door.


Right rear passenger door is done!