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Old 04-10-2013, 12:18 AM   #19
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If your are concerned you could take your vehicle to a transmission shop such as aamco that has a transmission flush machine. They disconnect the lines to the cooler and introduce the machine in its place. The dirty fluid goes into the machine and fresh clean fluid goes back in. Dialysis for your transmission. That way you get 100 percent fluid exchange and needs to be only done once. Afterwards they will drop the pan and change the filter and gasket.

Typical cost is about 250
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:40 PM   #20
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Scott,

Bought 6 quarts of WS tranny fluid at the dealer Friday asked for a discount and got it for $7.29 a quart instead of $ 9.33. Drained the fluid today and got 3 1/2 quarts out. Very easy job, I re-used the drain plug and gasket and have no leaks, not sure why some have replaced them. I was reading your comments from another thread that the capacity is 5.68 quarts, is this correct?

Thanks for your help.
Richard
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:07 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by potorap View Post
Scott,

Bought 6 quarts of WS tranny fluid at the dealer Friday asked for a discount and got it for $7.29 a quart instead of $ 9.33. Drained the fluid today and got 3 1/2 quarts out. Very easy job, I re-used the drain plug and gasket and have no leaks, not sure why some have replaced them. I was reading your comments from another thread that the capacity is 5.68 quarts, is this correct?

Thanks for your help.
Richard
The total capacity is 5.68 qts, but the only way to get that much out of the tranny is to disassemble it and drain the valve body and torque converter. A complete pressure flush as mentioned above would change out most of it, or you can run it for a bit with what you changed out, and then drain and refill it again to swap out a bit more of it.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:51 PM   #22
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Scott,
I travel about 125 miles a day and my plan is to drain it again in about 3-4 weeks, drop the pan, change the filter and refill. Upon reinstallation of the pan, should I use any silicone on the block/pan, or put in on dry? is there a pattern to tighten the bolts and what is the torque specs? Thanks.
Richard
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:02 PM   #23
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Scott,
I travel about 125 miles a day and my plan is to drain it again in about 3-4 weeks, drop the pan, change the filter and refill. Upon reinstallation of the pan, should I use any silicone on the block/pan, or put in on dry? is there a pattern to tighten the bolts and what is the torque specs? Thanks.
Richard
There's an OEM gasket for the pan, so get a new one along with the filter, and no silicone is required. The torque on the pan nuts is only 69 in-lb, which is a whole lot less than you would expect. There isn't a specific pattern for tightening the 19 bolts,
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:29 PM   #24
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Scott,
Man you're right only 69lbs, that's not very much. The wix filter I am looking at has a gasket with it. Do you recomend the OEM gasket only? Thanks for the help.
Richard
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:32 PM   #25
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Scott,
Man you're right only 69lbs, that's not very much. The wix filter I am looking at has a gasket with it. Do you recomend the OEM gasket only? Thanks for the help.
Richard
That's 69 in-lbs, which is just under 6 ft lbs.

The Wix filter/gasket should be fine.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:43 PM   #26
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Scott,
Gotcha 6 ft-lbs, thanks again. I will let you know how it goes. Take care.
Richard
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:17 PM   #27
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Ok guys,

Just finished dropping the tranny pan and replacing filter. This was the second draining and I am satisfied with job. I am surprised at the amount of metal in the pan and on the old filter. I do not understand why Toyota doesn't recommend a filter change, except for us to purchase a new tranny.Thanks to Scott for the advice on filter change at 100k. I do feel a considerable improvement in shifting and that I believe was the filter change. Another tidbit I discovered today upon recycling the oil and filter. O'reilly auto parts (west coast only?) sells global ATF which on the back of the quart say it is compatible with WS and it is $6 a quart.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:08 AM   #28
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Why my 2007 Yaris user manual says - total volume of ATF is 2.5 Litres?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ATF volume.jpg (18.9 KB, 186 views)
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:15 PM   #29
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As mentioned above , it is only a drain and re-fill , not a disassembly of the transmission .
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:06 AM   #30
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Auto Transmission Drain & Refill 07 Yaris HB

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
There's an OEM gasket for the pan, so get a new one along with the filter, and no silicone is required. The torque on the pan nuts is only 69 in-lb, which is a whole lot less than you would expect. There isn't a specific pattern for tightening the 19 bolts,
Hi CTScott, do you or any of the forum members know what the torque spec is for the transmission drain plug? I read on another thread that a member tightened the drain plug to 35 lb-ft but that seems excessive. Thanks.
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:16 AM   #31
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From the manual:

DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
(a) Remove the drain plug and gasket, and drain ATF.
(b) Install a new gasket and the drain plug.
Torque: 49 N*m (500 kgf*cm, 36 ft.*lbf)
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Old 10-17-2017, 05:43 PM   #32
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When I spoke with the local Toyota dealership, they recommended only a drain and fill and not to replace the filter. That's how they said they service the transmission. Transmission filters and gaskets are a 'special order' item. I had ordered a filter from Rock Auto and it did not come with a gasket. I cheaped out and am now regretting it. So far, I have drained and refilled 3 times. I am going to have toyota order me a gasket and in a few months I'll replace the filter and top up again. Local dealer sells the Toyota WS for $7.95/L (CAD).
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:04 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetut View Post
From the manual:

DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
(a) Remove the drain plug and gasket, and drain ATF.
(b) Install a new gasket and the drain plug.
Torque: 49 N*m (500 kgf*cm, 36 ft.*lbf)
Thanks!
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Old 10-19-2017, 04:05 PM   #34
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You're welcome. Good luck with your Drain and Fill.
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Old 10-21-2017, 08:05 AM   #35
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My Yaris was given to me by a family member that purchased it new, and never serviced the trans. I got it with 121,000 miles on the clock - so I did it myself. My Buddy that owns a transmission shop just happened to come over in the middle of me changing the fluid. My initial intent was to do a drain and fill, but he talked me into dropping the pan and filter. Boy was I happy he did. The OEM filter was nearly plugged. Black stuff was all over it inside.... it was clearly doing its job.

I live about 35 miles from his shop, so we just got a filter and gasket kit from O'Reilly. Not a very high quality set, but better than what I was dealing with. I am going to change it again in a couple months with a Toyota filter, but I thought I'd share that info with you.

Also of note... I used Valvoline Maxlife in it, and it drastically improved shifting. I also needed just under 5 quarts to fill it. I am guessing that the converter drained some out as well - because it sat draining for an hour or so while I went to the part store.
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Old 10-21-2017, 04:48 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white89gt View Post
Also of note... I used Valvoline Maxlife in it, and it drastically improved shifting. I also needed just under 5 quarts to fill it. I am guessing that the converter drained some out as well - because it sat draining for an hour or so while I went to the part store.
Which engine do you have? 1NZ-FE (1.5l) or 2NZ-FE (1.3l)? The different engines have a different auto transmission and use different fluids.
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