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Old 07-22-2010, 11:41 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33OH View Post
I run AMSOIL synthetic, change the oil every 25K miles. Change the filter every 10K miles.
You are crazy man. Not only is that way too long, AMSOIL is not a very good synthetic to begin with.


My yaris is at 65,000km (40,389miles). I was using Castrol 5w30 conventional but switched to Mobil 1 5w30 Full Synthetic on my last oil change. I am choosing to go 8,000km (5000miles), using a Fram Tough Guard filter on my first oil change.

The first thing I noticed when I switched to Synthetic was my engine ran a little quieter. Second was just performance, it seemed to accelerate a bit quicker and smoother. I know the filter says it's good for 12,700km (7500miles) but I don't feel comfortable going that kind of distance. I do a lot of highway driving going back and forth to work so I will find out in a month how the oil works out.

Last edited by Quaifer; 07-23-2010 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 07-23-2010, 01:32 PM   #38
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Ok, amsoil states using their filters you CAN go that long, and it is excellent oil. Lets keep this as facts not speculation please. This is why oil threads go south
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:25 PM   #39
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every stinking oil discussion has 'amsoil' in it somewhere.

the ONLY reason for amsoil fanbois is: Amsoil markets their products through a Multi-Level Marketing (MLM) network of dealers


MLM and that fact that every backwater racetrack has someone who is trying to make a buck (it is a business, is it not ?) and tout the incredible capabilities of amsoil vs (xyz) oil...so they may sell some....there is more 'word of mouth' about amsoil and the grapevine and somehow people seem to think that carries more weight than corporate marketing and buying something off the shelf at wally-world.

amsoil is no better and no worse than any other big brand oil with the same API specification. do not believe the hype, because it is hype.

this very post of mine is going to get someones panties in a bunch I imagine.

the chemists at Amsoil are good and they won't make a bogus product, but you are not missing anything
by not buying amsoil.
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:27 PM   #40
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Actually that was the reason I switched from amsoil, couldn't find a seller in Wenatchee. Went with royal purple since I can buy it almost anywhere.
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:48 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
every stinking oil discussion has 'amsoil' in it somewhere.

the ONLY reason for amsoil fanbois is: Amsoil markets their products through a Multi-Level Marketing (MLM) network of dealers


MLM and that fact that every backwater racetrack has someone who is trying to make a buck (it is a business, is it not ?) and tout the incredible capabilities of amsoil vs (xyz) oil...so they may sell some....there is more 'word of mouth' about amsoil and the grapevine and somehow people seem to think that carries more weight than corporate marketing and buying something off the shelf at wally-world.

amsoil is no better and no worse than any other big brand oil with the same API specification. do not believe the hype, because it is hype.

this very post of mine is going to get someones panties in a bunch I imagine.

the chemists at Amsoil are good and they won't make a bogus product, but you are not missing anything
by not buying amsoil.

AMSoil makes all their products (minus one, because it was a customer request) with Group IV bases.

That can't be said for Mobil1 (EXCEPT for the zero-weight [0w-**] oils).


They have one of the best additive packages in the synthetic automotive application industry.

Castrol has one of the worst.


They don't rely on colours gimmicks to sell their oil.

Can't say the same about Royal Purple.


They don't try to pass off "full synthetic" from a Group III base-stock.

Sorry, Pennzoil, you're out.


They don't need to run million-dollar "feel good" commercials about how one "feels the power" with their superior oil.

Sorry Quaker State, maybe next time.






Ten bucks says Quaifer is talking out of his ass, AND has never had an oil analysis done. You know, a sample of data to see where your Si stands, fuel-dilution, flash point, etc. Any takers?
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:55 PM   #42
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SHELL motor oil is part of S.O.P.U.S. family .
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:11 PM   #43
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Lets see some facts to back this up!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
every stinking oil discussion has 'amsoil' in it somewhere.

the ONLY reason for amsoil fanbois is: Amsoil markets their products through a Multi-Level Marketing (MLM) network of dealers


MLM and that fact that every backwater racetrack has someone who is trying to make a buck (it is a business, is it not ?) and tout the incredible capabilities of amsoil vs (xyz) oil...so they may sell some....there is more 'word of mouth' about amsoil and the grapevine and somehow people seem to think that carries more weight than corporate marketing and buying something off the shelf at wally-world.

amsoil is no better and no worse than any other big brand oil with the same API specification. do not believe the hype, because it is hype.

this very post of mine is going to get someones panties in a bunch I imagine.

the chemists at Amsoil are good and they won't make a bogus product, but you are not missing anything
by not buying amsoil.
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:49 PM   #44
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Thread locked in 3, 2, 1......
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Old 07-23-2010, 05:13 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astroman View Post
Ok, amsoil states using their filters you CAN go that long, and it is excellent oil. Lets keep this as facts not speculation please. This is why oil threads go south
I think Amsoil issued a warning that their ea filter [made by WIX] in our Yaris needs to be changed every 5k miles, even though it's rated by Amsoil for about 25k miles....so yeah, I guess if you're instructed by Amsoil to change their 25k mile filter every 5k miles their oil will easily last the claimed 25k miles/1yr.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:45 PM   #46
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I find it interesting that Toyota will be switching to 10,000 mile oil change intervals . I'm willing to bet they will be using Amsoil or made by Amsoil .

If you do a comparison with Amsoil and Mobil1 like I did , you will come to the same conclusion that I did . At 5000 miles the Mobil1 was "black" while the Amsoil was still somewhat lucent . Visual inspection alone clearly (pun intended) shows that Amsoil is a superior product .

I change filter at 5K (Toyota) and my Amsoil at 10K .
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:00 PM   #47
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Royal Purple FTW!!

I would use amsoil but it doesn't exist in my neck of the woods. RP can be had for a good price though.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:59 AM   #48
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I don't want to get involved in another oil thread, but I can't believe that we're three pages into this thread and nobody has shown up to preach the virtues of SJ rated lawn mower oil.

Why doesn't everyone just pay for oil analysis so we can have some actual facts and not just speculation.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:21 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTM Yaris View Post
I find it interesting that Toyota will be switching to 10,000 mile oil change intervals . I'm willing to bet they will be using Amsoil or made by Amsoil .

If you do a comparison with Amsoil and Mobil1 like I did , you will come to the same conclusion that I did . At 5000 miles the Mobil1 was "black" while the Amsoil was still somewhat lucent . Visual inspection alone clearly (pun intended) shows that Amsoil is a superior product .

I change filter at 5K (Toyota) and my Amsoil at 10K .
I doubt that Toyota will be using an oil that doesn't even have their own base stock...Amsoil just adds their additive package to their competition's [Mobil] base stock.

Some people like seeing black oil because they claim it means that the oil has enough detergents to clean the motor better. Maybe it's just urban legend that my grandfather helped to get started. Personally, I don't like seeing the oil go completely black at 5k in a well maintained low mileage Yaris, but that's what happened when I also drained the M1 (0w30) out on a 5k mile OCI ...first time that's ever happened, and I've used Eneos, PP, HP Amsoil, etc...
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:26 AM   #50
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How long would a Yaris run if you never changed the oil and kept it topped off?
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:59 PM   #51
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How long would a Yaris run if you never changed the oil and kept it topped off?
Not sure about a Yaris, but one of the guys I used to work with bought a new Honda Prelude many years ago. He NEVER changed the oil or had it serviced. I don't believe he even checked the engine bay at all. That car went almost 2 years until it seized up on the highway. Poor car. I hope she did not suffer too long before she died

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Old 08-11-2010, 05:01 PM   #52
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Can you really go 7500 miles on FRAM's Tough Guard filter (i know, never use fram, but whatever) on 5w30 Castrol GTX oil on the Yaris?
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:24 PM   #53
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I just switched over to Castrol GTX high mileage since my car hit 75k recently. I was using regular Castrol GTX since the first oil change.
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:22 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdman View Post
How long would a Yaris run if you never changed the oil and kept it topped off?
here's one example off another forum I visit. I cant just link to the post because you need an account to view. (Echo is the previous gen Yaris with 2NZ-FE):

It's partly my fault for not actually doing something more than reminding her periodically to get a service done, but anyways my wife's 2005 Echo has only had ONE service in 5 years and 58,000kms. It's been about 51,000km since her last oil change. The other day she said the car was making a funny noise, I took it for a test drive and immediately noticed that the red oil lamp was coming on and off. (I later asked her about it, she said "oh yeah I saw it but it went off so I didn't mention it." LOL)

When I checked the dipstick (repeatedly) I couldn't even make out what the level was – I wasn't sure whether the oil had thickened into black crud or whether it had just burnt up and disappeared. I didn't know whether adding more oil was going to overfill, but I decided to try a bit anyway. The oil filler area was blocked with more crud so I actually had to stir it (!!!) to clear it so I could put more oil in. After cautiously adding about a litre I could finally see some oil on the dipstick, and it was LOW. So the car was basically down to no oil! I added a couple more litres to get it up to the right level.
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