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04-21-2009, 09:18 PM | #1 |
Shut your fricken suck!!!
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Anyone's auto transmission lock out on them?
Hey People,
Last Saturday, my transmission locked itself into park and I had to use the safety release to get it into drive. My AC then stopped working, and the defrost light came came on without me pushing the defrost button. I then noticed that the overdrive lost most of it's power, and the engine was shaking more than usual. Finally, my turn signals went out, and the battery light came on briefly. I took it to the Dealer, and the service guy told me that they couldn't figure out what the problem was and they were still looking into it(My car was in the same spot and it looked like it hadn't moved since I left it there). The only mods I have are an intake,header,exhaust, and aftermarket tail lights. I also had aftermarket seats for a brief period, but that was a couple of weeks ago. I don't know what to do at this point. Have any of you had similar problems, or is this a first in the Yarisworld? |
04-21-2009, 09:25 PM | #2 |
Banned
Drives: 2007 4 Door Yaris Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,357
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Sounds like something electrical or maybe the ECU? That's really just a guess, and only based on so many seemingly unrelated things going wrong all at once. I drive an 07 auto sedan with 70k miles and haven't had any problems whatsoever.
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04-21-2009, 09:26 PM | #3 |
^+1 and I know nothing about the auto
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04-21-2009, 09:34 PM | #4 |
mine has done this before. popped the hood and tightened the negative battery cable that i forgot to tighten while working on my lights and it was fixed 100% never did it again
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04-21-2009, 09:39 PM | #5 |
dude i hope your car is ok i dont know whats up. hope its ok
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205/45/17 Nittos/ KN tyhoon 69 intake EURO areo muffler / DF 210 Springs NST 10% Pulley/ 15% tint 600watt rockford punch 12" subs and amp micro image rocks! |
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04-21-2009, 09:52 PM | #6 |
Fact that your battery light came on means your system voltage was seriousely low. Below 12 volts. WHich probally would explain all your electrical problems cause the computer and everything else is freaking out since it dosnt have its normal reference voltage.
Battery was drained when you stared and the park neutral saftey switch requires a 12 volt signal from the battery when the key is on and the pedal is depressed it completes the circuit. Since you had lower than 12 volts thats probally why it wouldnt allow you to go out of park. When you forced it out of park and tried to drive it thats when you noticed more nightmares.
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04-21-2009, 10:20 PM | #7 |
yeah if your battery is low or dies on you, hope you arnt on the road or highway. you lose EVERYTHING all your lights power stearing all that fun stuff. and power stearing usually goes first for me then lights and so on. luckyly you didnt lose your ps while driving. id double check your battery connection it could just have vibrated lose or you may had just a low battery.
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04-22-2009, 11:42 AM | #8 | |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,999
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Quote:
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04-22-2009, 11:50 AM | #9 |
Actually a defective voltage regulator in the altenator can allow system voltage to get low enough that the engine will die.
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04-22-2009, 12:15 PM | #10 |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,999
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true, but I've only seen one man capable of making a regulator work incorrectly......he is also the same man who can light a car on fire with the alternator by grounding it and putting brushes in wrong...but he'll deny it till the end...
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