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Old 05-17-2017, 07:10 PM   #1
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 353
Need to add some sound in the hatch

Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone has installed speakers into the inner hatch door panel of their Yaris ? I often wrench on vehicles where my car would be right next to me and I'd like to be able to enjoy my music without having to really crank it up and keep the side doors open to let the sound out of the car. Since I often leave the hatch open, I thought about adding some external speakers like the enclosed one made for outdoor (patio, pool, etc) or perhaps install them into the hatch panel since it's an empty space and would not take away any cargo space.

Ideas ? I though about upgrading my door speakers, but that won't really do much since it's the speaker location that is really important here.
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Old 06-21-2017, 01:36 PM   #2
scott4banger
 
Drives: 2013 Yaris Le US
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I'd look into 10in shallow mount speakers with a riser/spacer ring for fit un fortunately i haven't seen any kits for the hatch
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:15 PM   #3
Kaotic Lazagna
 
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https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6...dio-DB652.html

Or any other shallow mount speakers of your liking. I would remove/disconnect the factory rear speakers, and wire up these speakers into the hatch. You will have to find a way to mount them into the hatch, and I highly suggest getting some type of speaker baffle like the following:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_696B05...h.html?tp=2809

The hatch wasn't designed for any speakers, so it's best to play it safe and get the baffling to help prevent any moisture or debris from reaching the speaker. You should also make or find a different speaker grill to help protect the front.
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:27 PM   #4
David C
 
Drives: White '07 3dr LB
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Thanks for the suggestions. I did upgrade the front door speakers to Rockford Fostgate P1650 last week and it does help.

I've also look into how I could run the wiring into the rear hatch and it's not gonna be easy to do without taking off the rear quarter panels, etc.

Shallow mount speakers are a must, good call on the mounting ring to stiffen it up too. I'll have to find time for this project.
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:33 PM   #5
Kaotic Lazagna
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David C View Post
Thanks for the suggestions. I did upgrade the front door speakers to Rockford Fostgate P1650 last week and it does help.

I've also look into how I could run the wiring into the rear hatch and it's not gonna be easy to do without taking off the rear quarter panels, etc.

Shallow mount speakers are a must, good call on the mounting ring to stiffen it up too. I'll have to find time for this project.
Yeah, I'm sure you're going to have to remove the rear quarter interior panels (they one gigantic piece I believe), so you might as well remove the rear speakers. It's either that, or cut the rear speaker wire from the wire harness, connect new wires, run the wire up and through the headliner at the appropriate side, and feed it through the wire harness grommet leading to the hatch. I can't remember if it's the driver side or the passenger.

I think for me, the hardest part of this project would be figuring out how to mount the speakers onto the hatch panel. lol. I don't know how flimsy it is, so it might rattle with the bass. You may want to add sound deadening material onto the back of the panel since it'll be off anyway.
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Old 06-21-2017, 02:42 PM   #6
David C
 
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I already have a pair of tweeter in the front that I wired in parallel with the rear speakers to be able to balance them with the fade. However I could simply not feed the rear speakers and power the hatch speakers instead. Worst case, I bought a 4 channel amplifier I could use to drive my front upgraded speakers and the tweeter, leaving all 4 speaker channels off the head unit available to power the rear speakers and the hatch speakers.

Since I took the rear bench off and made a flat deck, I can run wiring on the floor from the head unit to the rear driver side cargo space, then go up the rear pillar and only have to pry open the edge of the head liner to run the wiring to the hatch grommet. I'm really not a fan of taking off the quarter panels, because I have to take off all my deck setup to free the bottom of the panels.
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Old 06-21-2017, 07:24 PM   #7
Kaotic Lazagna
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David C View Post
I already have a pair of tweeter in the front that I wired in parallel with the rear speakers to be able to balance them with the fade. However I could simply not feed the rear speakers and power the hatch speakers instead. Worst case, I bought a 4 channel amplifier I could use to drive my front upgraded speakers and the tweeter, leaving all 4 speaker channels off the head unit available to power the rear speakers and the hatch speakers.

Since I took the rear bench off and made a flat deck, I can run wiring on the floor from the head unit to the rear driver side cargo space, then go up the rear pillar and only have to pry open the edge of the head liner to run the wiring to the hatch grommet. I'm really not a fan of taking off the quarter panels, because I have to take off all my deck setup to free the bottom of the panels.
With 8 (10 if you count the tweeters in the coaxial speakers), you may not have enough low end frequencies. I'm sure you already lost some bass with the RF speakers you just installed. The rear speakers don't produce that much bass from the factory either, so I'm sure you're lacking lows right now.

Since you bought a 4-channel amp, I would use those to power the hatch speakers and the door speakers. Leave the HU to power the component tweeters. Like I said, I just wouldn't use the factory rear speakers at all. This way, you'll get nice, clear sound coming from all the speakers and the tweeters won't be overbearing. And with the aftermarket speakers being amp'd, your lows should also return to deliver some punch.
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Old 06-21-2017, 09:45 PM   #8
David C
 
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Thanks for bringing it up, my bad for not stating that I also have a 300w RMS 8" powered sub already installed that gives me all the bass I need. I actually wanted the RF PPS4-6, which is a single midrange 6.5" loud speaker, but at twice the price of the P1650, it wasn't worth it. That's why I end up with tweeter in the front door too. I have the RF P1T-S tweeters on the dash next to the A pillars, wired together with the rear speakers. Sound stage is pretty good, even before changing door speakers.

I don't want to power any low power speakers with the amp because it's a 50rms/channel amp and too powerful for factory speakers. I'd drive the tweeter and P1650 with it and let the HU handle the cheap ones. But I'm not ready yet to go full power, I need more time behind the wheel to sharpen my ears to the latest upgrade I did.

Like I said, I'm also very busy and have several projects going on on top of jobs and family.

Either way, I think the HU have more than enough power to drive all the speakers since I have a powered sub that already take off the low frequency duty from the HU.

When I bought my P1650 speakers, the Polk DB652 linked above were the second choice if the RF didn't worked out. They're also on top of my list for the rear hatch, unless I have to go with small diameter (I'll see once I take the hatch panel off).
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:20 AM   #9
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Ah, then I think you're good. haha.
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