#winter #cold #heating #questions :) - Toyota Yaris Forums

evastears · 12-11-2013, 01:07 PM

Hi,

Soo the winter is finally here, this week it was down to -14 degrees and i have some questions about heating.

In my yaris verso 1.4 d4d 2004 there is cable heating system and webasto heating. So before running the car everymorning i heat the car 2 hours, and i can really feel the difference. Actually after the heating up when i touch the motor it is all the way warm actually, it heats up quite well, it was not like that in my previous mercedes car. This heats up the cooler liquid. Is it true ?

Anyways, my real question is the hot air comes to cabin very late. After driving some 15 to 20 minutes, than it starts to blow warm air inside the cabin. But however, there is one button (heating button) right side, under the hand break, when i press that the warm air comes after some 4-5 minute. What is that ? How does it work ? And does it consume extra diesel ?

I am a newbie, so not so much info

. Indeed thank you guys a lot ! Have learnt alot from here.

evastears · 12-11-2013, 01:09 PM

Also it would be good to mention about the cold engine light. It goes away after some 5 min. driving. I believe that is normal.

IllusionX · 12-11-2013, 02:43 PM

the d4d probably takes a long time before giving you some heat. If you have an electric plug to heat the car, then this heats the engine bloc.

I'd like to see a picture of the heating button haha. The webasto is normally to heat the cabin when the engine is off.

evastears · 12-12-2013, 02:48 PM

Here is the heating button :) lol

Sorry for my bad english.

CTScott · 12-12-2013, 03:11 PM

Your cable heater either heats the oil or heats the coolant. The primary purpose of that is to make it start easier by not having the oil be as viscous as it would be if it were cold.

This will help a little bit with heating the cabin more quickly, but not a lot. The cabin is heated by the engine coolant and that can take quite a while to get hot, particularly with -14 degree air blowing across the radiator. You could make it heat more quickly by covering the radiator grill on cold days.

The engine cold light stays on until the coolant reaches 55C.

The D4D does have an optional diesel powered supplemental heater, which is what that switch activates.

nookandcrannycar · 12-12-2013, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evastears

Hi,

Soo the winter is finally here, this week it was down to -14 degrees and i have some questions about heating.

In my yaris verso 1.4 d4d 2004 there is cable heating system and webasto heating. So before running the car everymorning i heat the car 2 hours, and i can really feel the difference. Actually after the heating up when i touch the motor it is all the way warm actually, it heats up quite well, it was not like that in my previous mercedes car. This heats up the cooler liquid. Is it true ?

Anyways, my real question is the hot air comes to cabin very late. After driving some 15 to 20 minutes, than it starts to blow warm air inside the cabin. But however, there is one button (heating button) right side, under the hand break, when i press that the warm air comes after some 4-5 minute. What is that ? How does it work ? And does it consume extra diesel ?

I am a newbie, so not so much info

. Indeed thank you guys a lot ! Have learnt alot from here.

More power to you for driving in that weather in your part of the world

. My time in Finland = during late Spring. Once though, I was in Oslo around this time of year. We walked from a restaurant off Karl Johans gate to the train station. It was snowing. The temperature was -24 Celsius BEFORE figuring in the wind chill, and it was WINDY. People were driving. I've spent quite a bit of time in Truckee, California (which is sometimes the coldest place in the U.S. 'Lower 48'), and I spent a Winter in Mammoth Lakes, CA (a 'central' California ski town in the Sierra Nevada mountains...not much else around...and I didn't drive), and the 2nd day I ever skied when I was a kid saw the wind kick up to 60 mph while snowing (the lifts then closed) at Squaw Valley. Given the above, I don't think I have EVER been as cold as I was that day in Oslo walking to the train station. I shuddered to think about drivers possibly getting stuck in the snow in Oslo that day and how problematic that could turn out to be. Trying to drive on a cold, snowy day in Manhattan might, however, be worse

.

yarisitis · 12-16-2013, 12:30 AM

I have an issue with the cold engine light not turning off.

My girlfriend has a 2000 Toyota Echo w/ 150,000 miles on it. Last night it was around 30 degrees and we sat in the car for a few minutes to let it warm up and then started driving to our destination thinking it would finish warming up and the light would turn off on the way like it always does. Well it didn't...

The cold engine light stayed on the entire 20 minute/15 mile drive to our destination. It was only after we got there and turned the car off, and then back on that the light finally turned off right away. It happened again tonight to my girlfriend on her way to work.

Any ideas if this is could be a bigger problem? We're in CA so it doesn't get very cold where we are, lowest it probably gets is around 15-20 degrees, but never has the cold engine light stayed on for a significant amount of time.

Idahotom · 12-16-2013, 11:33 AM

I have a heater pad on my oil pan, a lower radiator inline heater, plus the block heater. This gives me very quick response in heating things up when it's around zero. I never start it without preheating, it'll start just fine but I have the setup to preheat so I use it. I have all these on one timer, and if I am leaving home at 8, everything turns on at 6 and everything is nice and cozy. Even 1/2 an hour makes a big difference.

For the last 3 winters I've blocked my top grill off, using lexan zip tied to the outside. This winter I also have blocked off my lower grill, and even pulling the 1,000' grade to my home (third gear due to the curves, at about 40 mph) it hasn't got above 204 according to the ScanGauge. This same slope, driven down in the morning, without preheating, means no cabin heat for the first 10 minutes of my drive, at the bottom of the hill the engine is only 120 or so even with the two grill blocks. WITH preheating I'm at 150-160 and am getting useful heat. As it warms up this spring, I will of course need to remember to take these air blocks off! Having a ScanGauge helps a lot in all this of course. If I am really feeling like a sissy I start it and let it idle for a few minutes, though I hate what that does for my daily MPG, by the time I get in and drive off the inside is 65 degrees.

IllusionX · 12-16-2013, 11:49 AM

I'm not sure blocking the radiator does anything, since the thermostat prevents water from flowing when it's not hot enough.

CTScott · 12-16-2013, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IllusionX

I'm not sure blocking the radiator does anything, since the thermostat prevents water from flowing when it's not hot enough.

Blocking the radiator definitely helps in cold environments. Before the thermostat opens it reduces the cold air flowing over the block to allow the engine to get up to temp quicker. Once it opens the blocking restricts the airflow through the radiator to prevent significant cooling of the coolant.

nookandcrannycar · 12-16-2013, 12:57 PM

I read post #9 and thought 'that's not what my friend found to be true'. My friend has lived much of life in the S.F. Bay Area.....except for, notably, living for 20 years in Great Falls, Montana. The whole time he lived in Montana, he drove full sized pickups from one or another of the Big 3. He usually returned to California for Christmas, and said he often drove through temps a fair bit colder than what has been posted so far on this thread. He said he always blocked his radiator...said he had to do so to make sure he could get at least get out of Montana (and usually for much more of the trip than that). I then read CTScott's post #10...the 'why' behind what my friend found to be true.

Idahotom · 12-17-2013, 05:54 PM

Look at all the big rigs that have those covers over their grills, they have thermostats also.

Not cold weather related, but some feel partially blocking off the grill means less cooling drag/better economy. I understand some of the newer cars have automatic louvers to accomplish this. So, in very cold weather I keep things cozier and maybe gain some FE.

Cooling drag is often overlooked, but not in airplanes, the fast ones use the absolute minimum cowl openings to deal with the heat, smaller is always better, performance wise. The same principle applies to cars, even a Yaris. A system that would clean up and close up the undercarriage and the grill openings, and automatically open up as cooling requirements rise would for sure be more efficient, and also for sure, add weight and complexity.

roxy1 · 12-17-2013, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Idahotom

add weight and complexity.

I wonder if it would be worth the weight gain. the current yaris in MT form weighs only 2295 lbs, which I quite like.

nookandcrannycar · 12-17-2013, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Idahotom

some feel partially blocking off the grill means less cooling drag/better economy.

I've also noticed this on some hypermiling sites as part of the explanation when a high achiever is asked, 'How do you get your FE to that level'.

12-12-2013, 03:11 PM	#5
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	Your cable heater either heats the oil or heats the coolant. The primary purpose of that is to make it start easier by not having the oil be as viscous as it would be if it were cold. This will help a little bit with heating the cabin more quickly, but not a lot. The cabin is heated by the engine coolant and that can take quite a while to get hot, particularly with -14 degree air blowing across the radiator. You could make it heat more quickly by covering the radiator grill on cold days. The engine cold light stays on until the coolant reaches 55C. The D4D does have an optional diesel powered supplemental heater, which is what that switch activates. __________________

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12-11-2013, 01:07 PM	#1
evastears Drives: Yaris Verso Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Finland Posts: 9	#winter #cold #heating #questions :) Hi, Soo the winter is finally here, this week it was down to -14 degrees and i have some questions about heating. In my yaris verso 1.4 d4d 2004 there is cable heating system and webasto heating. So before running the car everymorning i heat the car 2 hours, and i can really feel the difference. Actually after the heating up when i touch the motor it is all the way warm actually, it heats up quite well, it was not like that in my previous mercedes car. This heats up the cooler liquid. Is it true ? Anyways, my real question is the hot air comes to cabin very late. After driving some 15 to 20 minutes, than it starts to blow warm air inside the cabin. But however, there is one button (heating button) right side, under the hand break, when i press that the warm air comes after some 4-5 minute. What is that ? How does it work ? And does it consume extra diesel ? I am a newbie, so not so much info. Indeed thank you guys a lot ! Have learnt alot from here.

12-11-2013, 01:09 PM	#2
evastears Drives: Yaris Verso Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Finland Posts: 9	Also it would be good to mention about the cold engine light. It goes away after some 5 min. driving. I believe that is normal.

12-11-2013, 02:43 PM	#3
IllusionX It's the illusion you see View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brossard, QC Posts: 3,888	the d4d probably takes a long time before giving you some heat. If you have an electric plug to heat the car, then this heats the engine bloc. I'd like to see a picture of the heating button haha. The webasto is normally to heat the cabin when the engine is off.

12-12-2013, 02:48 PM	#4
evastears Drives: Yaris Verso Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Finland Posts: 9	Here is the heating button :) lol Sorry for my bad english.

12-16-2013, 12:30 AM	#7
yarisitis Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: California Posts: 165	I have an issue with the cold engine light not turning off. My girlfriend has a 2000 Toyota Echo w/ 150,000 miles on it. Last night it was around 30 degrees and we sat in the car for a few minutes to let it warm up and then started driving to our destination thinking it would finish warming up and the light would turn off on the way like it always does. Well it didn't... The cold engine light stayed on the entire 20 minute/15 mile drive to our destination. It was only after we got there and turned the car off, and then back on that the light finally turned off right away. It happened again tonight to my girlfriend on her way to work. Any ideas if this is could be a bigger problem? We're in CA so it doesn't get very cold where we are, lowest it probably gets is around 15-20 degrees, but never has the cold engine light stayed on for a significant amount of time.

12-16-2013, 11:33 AM	#8
Idahotom Drives: 2008 5 sp. LB Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Idahoi Posts: 268	I have a heater pad on my oil pan, a lower radiator inline heater, plus the block heater. This gives me very quick response in heating things up when it's around zero. I never start it without preheating, it'll start just fine but I have the setup to preheat so I use it. I have all these on one timer, and if I am leaving home at 8, everything turns on at 6 and everything is nice and cozy. Even 1/2 an hour makes a big difference. For the last 3 winters I've blocked my top grill off, using lexan zip tied to the outside. This winter I also have blocked off my lower grill, and even pulling the 1,000' grade to my home (third gear due to the curves, at about 40 mph) it hasn't got above 204 according to the ScanGauge. This same slope, driven down in the morning, without preheating, means no cabin heat for the first 10 minutes of my drive, at the bottom of the hill the engine is only 120 or so even with the two grill blocks. WITH preheating I'm at 150-160 and am getting useful heat. As it warms up this spring, I will of course need to remember to take these air blocks off! Having a ScanGauge helps a lot in all this of course. If I am really feeling like a sissy I start it and let it idle for a few minutes, though I hate what that does for my daily MPG, by the time I get in and drive off the inside is 65 degrees.

12-16-2013, 11:49 AM	#9
IllusionX It's the illusion you see View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Brossard, QC Posts: 3,888	I'm not sure blocking the radiator does anything, since the thermostat prevents water from flowing when it's not hot enough.

12-16-2013, 12:57 PM	#11
nookandcrannycar Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009 Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles Posts: 4,839	I read post #9 and thought 'that's not what my friend found to be true'. My friend has lived much of life in the S.F. Bay Area.....except for, notably, living for 20 years in Great Falls, Montana. The whole time he lived in Montana, he drove full sized pickups from one or another of the Big 3. He usually returned to California for Christmas, and said he often drove through temps a fair bit colder than what has been posted so far on this thread. He said he always blocked his radiator...said he had to do so to make sure he could get at least get out of Montana (and usually for much more of the trip than that). I then read CTScott's post #10...the 'why' behind what my friend found to be true.

12-17-2013, 05:54 PM	#12
Idahotom Drives: 2008 5 sp. LB Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Idahoi Posts: 268	Look at all the big rigs that have those covers over their grills, they have thermostats also. Not cold weather related, but some feel partially blocking off the grill means less cooling drag/better economy. I understand some of the newer cars have automatic louvers to accomplish this. So, in very cold weather I keep things cozier and maybe gain some FE. Cooling drag is often overlooked, but not in airplanes, the fast ones use the absolute minimum cowl openings to deal with the heat, smaller is always better, performance wise. The same principle applies to cars, even a Yaris. A system that would clean up and close up the undercarriage and the grill openings, and automatically open up as cooling requirements rise would for sure be more efficient, and also for sure, add weight and complexity.