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Old 02-03-2011, 02:50 PM   #19
jemmah
 
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I just returned from TOYOTA parts department. Ready for this...........they want $26.00 (US) a bulb. I'm not paying anybody 25-30 dollars for a bulb, I don't care how long it lasts!! There probably massproduced for 4 bucks a piece!!
I'll continue trying varying manufactures until something works and if I fail I'll remove the relay or whatever for the daytime running lights.
It's ALWAYS the low beam that bites the dust, never the highbeam. I'm leaning toward the daytime running lights more and more.
Thanks for the ideas and keep them coming IF there different from what people have already mentioned.
JIM
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:26 AM   #20
gonzo452001
 
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We have three yaris's in our family two are 07's one 08 95.000 on the one no bulb changes all have drl's
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:28 AM   #21
nookandcrannycar
 
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I wonder if 07s with the Cold Weather Package (heavy duty heater, DRLs, etc) have better luck re headlight bulb longevity than 07s that don't have the Cold Weather Package. I live near Houston, but I purchased my Yaris in Rhode Island while on a trip ((The steering rack on my 2001 Suzuki Swift only had about 500-600 more safe miles on it--the car had 151k and (no joke-I looked at it myself) the Blue Book value was ZERO...and the partial dirt roads in campgrounds in Newfoundland,Canada really hurt the steering rack)) and I lived in California at the time. My car was originally delivered to the group's dealership in Connecticut and then sent to Rhode Island. My car has the Cold Weather Package and I didn't have to replace any bulbs until between 140k and 171k miles when I replaced the Headlamp Bulbs and the Rear Plate Bulb once each. I'm about to hit 208k miles and all of the bulbs have been fine since the 171k milestone.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:44 AM   #22
why?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nookandcrannycar View Post
I wonder if 07s with the Cold Weather Package (heavy duty heater, DRLs, etc) have better luck re headlight bulb longevity than 07s that don't have the Cold Weather Package. I live near Houston, but I purchased my Yaris in Rhode Island while on a trip ((The steering rack on my 2001 Suzuki Swift only had about 500-600 more safe miles on it--the car had 151k and (no joke-I looked at it myself) the Blue Book value was ZERO...and the partial dirt roads in campgrounds in Newfoundland,Canada really hurt the steering rack)) and I lived in California at the time. My car was originally delivered to the group's dealership in Connecticut and then sent to Rhode Island. My car has the Cold Weather Package and I didn't have to replace any bulbs until between 140k and 171k miles when I replaced the Headlamp Bulbs and the Rear Plate Bulb once each. I'm about to hit 208k miles and all of the bulbs have been fine since the 171k milestone.
jemmah should also have the cold weather package though. I've never had a headlight bulb blow on me on any car I've owned.

I will say if you are in the US strip the drl unit out as fast as you can. it can only hurt.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:06 PM   #23
naossoan
 
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3-4 times per year? Damn dude I have yet to have a bumb burn out on me, though I only had 55000km. I had a tail light go on me though.

everyone always tells me DON'T TOUCH THE BULB so if you're doing that, then dont :)
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:43 PM   #24
Geoff Peace
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jemmah View Post
I just returned from TOYOTA parts department. Ready for this...........they want $26.00 (US) a bulb. I'm not paying anybody 25-30 dollars for a bulb, I don't care how long it lasts!! There probably massproduced for 4 bucks a piece!!
I'll continue trying varying manufactures until something works and if I fail I'll remove the relay or whatever for the daytime running lights.
It's ALWAYS the low beam that bites the dust, never the highbeam. I'm leaning toward the daytime running lights more and more.
Thanks for the ideas and keep them coming IF there different from what people have already mentioned.
JIM
Contrary to what some people have said on this topic bulbs do not fail regularly for no reason. The reasons for headlight bulbs to fail prematurely are:- Poor quality bulbs, (not the issue it was years ago), touching the bulb during fitting, incorrect fitting, excessive vibration, poor terminal connections causing a resistance, supply voltage too high. The last reason is caused by the voltage regulator, rectifier or both being faulty. They are housed within the alternator. I would have the output of the alternator checked thoroughly, it may be constantly high or may be spiking occasionally. Output should be 13.6 to 14.4 volts, in my opinion, although Toyota specify 12.9 to 14.9 volts. Bulbs failing prematurely was much more of a problem in the 'old days' when cars had a dynamo instead of an alternator. The reason was that a dynamo was mechanically regulated and charged at around 16.8 volts. Alternators are electronically regulated and deliver a more constant voltage output, Until the regulator malfunctions!

Regards Geoff Peace.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:40 PM   #25
OTA'sTOY
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are you touching the glass or top part of the bulb?
could be the reason why you keep changing out bulbs
if you get any oil from your fingers or any other contaminents on the bulb (glass and top part)
it will cause the bulb to crap out
before putting in bulb wipe the bulb with rubbing alcohol
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:59 PM   #26
jp_costarica
 
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1rst: What is the status of the filament and bulb when it fail?
Look as burned? What is the color of the filament? and glass bulb?
2nd: Are your headligh module complete clean? are totally transparent? Any reflection in it?

3rd: What is the max volt on bulb terminal at 4000-5000 rpm...?
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:58 PM   #27
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Also check to see if the plug that snaps onto the headlight bulb isn't loose or has signs of heat. Sometimes on the chevys the pig tails get loose and worn out then start to melt.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:07 PM   #28
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I was using Sylvania Silverstars, and was replacing the bulbs. It got old. So I put the OEMs back in I haven't had a problems since.
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