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Old 10-26-2013, 11:27 AM   #127
Hershey
 
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Let us know if the grinding disappears over a period of time .
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:09 PM   #128
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After purchasing my 2009 3-door hatchback new and putting 165,000 miles on it I decided today (after reading this thread) to change my manual transmission fluid. I followed the advice offered by many here and would like to add a few little tips that I did that should benefit others.

I took some 2-foot long 2" x 8"'s scrap I had laying around and placed a section of 2" x 8" in front of each tire. I then drove the car onto the lumber to increase the ground clearance by another 1.5 inches. It may not sound like much but every bit helps especially when gaining access to the drain plug underneath the car without having to use a jack.

I loosened-up the filler plug just enough to make sure that it could be removed, then removed the drain plug. Draining the transmission fluid without removing the filler plug prevented the transmission fluid from gushing out. After draining about a quart of fluid I then removed the filler plug to allow the transmission to drain completely. No messy spillage anywhere.

I attached a clear vinyl hose 5/8"od / 1/2" id to a small funnel. The hose fit perfectly in the filler hole of the transmission - nice and snug.

Unfortunately I could not find Redline MT90 anywhere locally, so I decided to use Amsoil Severe Gear SAE 75W-90. I referenced the Amsoil website to make sure it could be used in my Yaris.

I test drove the car afterwards and there is a noticable difference in how the transmission shifts - nice and smooth.

Thanks to all the valuable advice posted here in this thread, a job that my local Toyota dealer wanted a $198.95 to do, I did for $25.00 and it took a total of 25 minutes to do.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:02 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by En4sir View Post
I decided to use Amsoil Severe Gear SAE 75W-90. I referenced the Amsoil website to make sure it could be used in my Yaris.

I test drove the car afterwards and there is a noticable difference in how the transmission shifts - nice and smooth.

Thanks to all the valuable advice posted here in this thread, a job that my local Toyota dealer wanted a $198.95 to do, I did for $25.00 and it took a total of 25 minutes to do.
I used Severe Gear as well. I have put 30,000 miles on the lubricant and have been well pleased.

AMSOIL lists Severe Gear as a GL-5 product. Can anyone find (in writing) where Toyota says the Yaris C50 has to have a GL-4? Just curious, I'd like to see it.

When a transmission MUST have a GL-4, AMSOIL makes sure they recommend a GL-4. On the Yaris, the first recommendation is a GL-5.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:09 AM   #130
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I don't think you'll find anything in writing from the manufacturer that GL-4 is for the Yaris. It's just a general consensus that GL-4 is reviewed by members to feel better for their Yaris. If you search any of the terms ie GL-4 and you'll find that it works better for our synchros among other things.

Here is one particular thread: http://yarisworld.com/forums/showthr...highlight=gl-4


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stToyota View Post
You probably should have used AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4 Transaxle Lube...it's what I used and GL-4 is better for the transaxle than the severe gear GL-5, which is meant for differentials.
Nice and succint from this thread:
http://yarisworld.com/forums/showthr...ht=gl-4&page=2
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:56 PM   #131
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GL-4 is preferred . The AMSOIL Manual Transmission and Transaxles Gear Lube is GL-4 . If it's not giving poor shifting ( grinding , etc. ) you should be fine .
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:13 AM   #132
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Drove my lowered sedan onto 1" thick concrete tiles at the front. Just enough space to floor jack the front up and start working. Thanks OP, you've saved me $200+ in quoted service fees, plus given me some knowledge every Yaris enthusiast should have.

For the record: Motomaster synthetic 75W90, GL-5.

If our manual says says GL-4 OR GL-5, then I shouldn't worry so much about using GL-5. The Toyota engineers would be in deep trouble if they designed a gearbox without considering that they prescribed an oil grade that can harm yellow metals.
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Old 08-30-2014, 03:17 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
Make sure your vent is clear as well. The transmission has a vent on it to allow for the expansion of the oil/air inside. Otherwise the seals have to deal with the pressure and will eventually fail. These vents often clog, and mine was plugged when I got the car with 38000km on it. A good indicator it is plugged is you will hear a hiss of air as you open the fill plug.
Cory, how did you clean the vent? When I removed the filler plug, some air hissed out, so apparently my vent is clogged. From the photo you posted, I can't figure out where it is. Is the vent a bolt, or simply a hole? Can it be cleaned with a squirt of compressed air?
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:42 AM   #134
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I wouldn't mind knowing where that vent is either. I have changed my trans oil at 87,000km when I got my Yaris but will be doing it again before the winter as I'm at 122,000km and I want to put synthetic in. I didn't hear any air release the first time I did it but I'd like to check it.
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:02 PM   #135
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I looked around yesterday, and I think I found it where Cory labeled in that drawing. After removing the air box, it's visible from the top. It's an aluminum cap about 1/2" diameter and 3/4" tall. It spins freely, and I pulled it off with vise grips. It looked totally clean under the cap, but I blew it off with canned air anyway.
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:19 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
A suggestion to all owners, but specifically while doing this job:

Make sure your vent is clear as well. The transmission has a vent on it to allow for the expansion of the oil/air inside. Otherwise the seals have to deal with the pressure and will eventually fail. These vents often clog, and mine was plugged when I got the car with 38000km on it. A good indicator it is plugged is you will hear a hiss of air as you open the fill plug.

I can't recall exactly where the vent is on these cars. iirc it's just behind the shifter. A little white(?) plastic knob that you twist and wiggle a little to free up any junk.

I'll try to find a picture.

Cheers.

Driving a 2010 Hatchback, 5 door, manual with 80K miles
Came back from the dealer after replacing the axle seal, which showed some leaking. Opened the filling cap and heard the hiss so I am sure I have to clean the vent. Now waiting for the MT-90.

Thanks for all the inside info.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:59 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spookybathtub View Post
I looked around yesterday, and I think I found it where Cory labeled in that drawing. After removing the air box, it's visible from the top. It's an aluminum cap about 1/2" diameter and 3/4" tall. It spins freely, and I pulled it off with vise grips. It looked totally clean under the cap, but I blew it off with canned air anyway.
And now ur gone have to replace it with new ...they are not to be removed ,caps that is ...if stuck spray penetrating fluid free it up clean off with brake clean .
They are also used on the axles on Tacoma and tundra almost all Toyota's .

sent from my S4 on Mars
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:00 PM   #138
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Mine went back on just fine... what's the problem?
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:09 PM   #139
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No problem... Just saying no need to take it apart and risk damage yours may or maybe not ok that's all

sent from my S4 on Mars
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:58 PM   #140
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Found this pdf about multiples oils. Keep in mind is sponsored by AMSOIL. Also ignore the rating at the end. Kind of crappy weighting system.

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/br...lube_study.pdf
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:36 PM   #141
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Just changed mine. I used RedLine. There is a noticeable difference in shifting.
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:12 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronsin View Post
Wilbro how did your engine compartment get so dirty?

I hope you changed the AF too!
I do a fair amount of driving on dirt roads when I go climbing.. I change both air filters regularly as they get dirty quickly!
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Old 07-18-2015, 02:46 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by Henry G. View Post
Royal Purple is average stuff at best. Read the technical reviews.
Redline MT-90 is top notch stuff. This is a 15 minute job at worst if you have the right tools. You will notice smoother shifting and that grinding while going into reverse will all but disappear. Its a no brainer especially if you drive 25k miles a year like I do.
If your grinding while shifting into reverse. Learn from your mistakes. Put the car into first gear then shift it in reverse. Grinding is due to the driver most of the time.

Have patience with your car and it will drive smoother.
This was to inform all on how to reduce grinding when shifting into reverse.

This was written respectfully as possible.
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Old 10-25-2015, 06:53 PM   #144
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Just got two quarts of the Redline MT-90 GL-4 Transmission fluid from ebay for $34 shipped. Hopefully it fixes my occasional second gear and reverse gear grind.
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