Alpine System

[ChinoCharles]

I'm going to let my tax return sit in the bank while all these ideas for what I could do marinate a bit. I'm just wondering if these three products would combine to give me a nice start to a top-notch system.

Alpine SPX-177R Type X 6.5" components
http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-SPX-177R-...QQcmdZViewItem

Alpine SPS-13C2 Type S 5.25" coaxials
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-SPS-1...QQcmdZViewItem

Alpine MRP-F450 400W 4/3/2 channel amp
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-MRP-F450-...QQcmdZViewItem

Installed cost would be around $500 including a wiring kit. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Stick to Alpine, I won't put anything else in my baby.

[Razr]

Looks like a nice setup to me - in fact 2/3 of your components are what I intend to put in our Yaris, but what about the bottom end?

[ChinoCharles]

I want to tackle top and bottom separately... the Type X 10" sub I want w/ an amp and box (from spkrman ) will likely cost as much as the rest of my system combined. Gotta start somewhere, right?

I expect the mids on those components to tide me over till then, especially with that amp running the juice. Could be wrong though... audio definitely isn't my strong suit, hence why I'm asking you guys!

[Razr]

The SPX 6" midbass is punchy, but doesn't get as low as other brands will - it's really designed to be high-passed at 70-80Hz with a sub to fill in the bottom. It'll get you by, but with it's great (for the money) SQ and 70w of power into them, you'll probably be pining for the sub sooner than you think! :)

IMHO your selections are bang-on for the bucks. The only thing I'll be approching differently is the rear speakers (they can wait indefinately for me), and the sub, as the WAF will only stretch to an 8" in a small ported box..

[sqcomp]

Those SPX 177r components are VERY nice...especially for the price. I've been preaching these as bargain speakers for what seems like three years now. I have NO experience with the Type R or Type S speakers though. Out of curiosity why only a 4 channel? Why not a 6 to bi amp the comps and support the rears?

As for the "lack" mid bass from the SPX...this REALLY depends on how far you're going to take the install. If you're going to slap the mids in the doors and let it go, yes they will be weak. If you fully dynamat the door and put some power to them, you'll have better bass.

[ASHRAF]

I have an Alpine type R in my yaris

it is awesome

ur setup looks really good, and u r right, start with the front end.

cYa

[ChinoCharles]

Didn't know they made 6 channel amps! Ebay, here I come...

EDIT: Found one JBL 6/5/4/3 channel amp on Ebay. Weak. How big of a difference will I see from running the mid drivers and tweeters on separate channels?

[YamilR]

You probably know this but you can fit 6.5" all the way around

[Razr]

Originally Posted by ChinoCharles

How big of a difference will I see from running the mid drivers and tweeters on separate channels?

Without wanting to start a flame war.. IMHO, not very much unless you go full active with a decent electronic crossover. Bi-amping using the standard passive crossovers has very (sometimes hotly) debatable benefits.

[spkrman]

Originally Posted by ChinoCharles

Didn't know they made 6 channel amps! Ebay, here I come...

EDIT: Found one JBL 6/5/4/3 channel amp on Ebay. Weak. How big of a difference will I see from running the mid drivers and tweeters on separate channels?

I wouldnt bother with a 6 channel - 4 will work great for your purposes.

Now, if you want to mess with 6 channel time alignment and 6 channels of 32 band EQ... maybe worth it. If your just throwing power at them without any additional tuning, dont bother.

Setup looks spot on so far! Very good picks!

If anything, I'd get a 4 channel amp, amp the front speaks, and bridge the rear for a sub... would make things very simple, and unless your looking to get pretty dam loud, would be a good way to go. The rear fill can run off the head unit just fine, thats too much power for the type S coax's anyway.

I'm not sure if the type X is the sub for you, but if your sticking alpine and want sound quality, thats the only way to go

[Razr]

Originally Posted by spkrman

If anything, I'd get a 4 channel amp, amp the front speaks, and bridge the rear for a sub...

Yep, exactly what I have in mind. Given the proximity of the rear speakers in a Yaris, and the small size of the cabin I wouldn't recommend amping the rears unless you're just out for pure SPL, in which case you probably bought the wrong car

[bigsky2]

Originally Posted by ChinoCharles

I'm going to let my tax return sit in the bank while all these ideas for what I could do marinate a bit. I'm just wondering if these three products would combine to give me a nice start to a top-notch system.

Alpine SPX-177R Type X 6.5" components
http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-SPX-177R-...QQcmdZViewItem

Alpine SPS-13C2 Type S 5.25" coaxials
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-SPS-1...QQcmdZViewItem

Alpine MRP-F450 400W 4/3/2 channel amp
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-MRP-F450-...QQcmdZViewItem

Installed cost would be around $500 including a wiring kit. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Stick to Alpine, I won't put anything else in my baby.

Alpine bitch

[ChinoCharles]

Originally Posted by bigsky2

Alpine bitch

And a bad one at that!

spkrman, I agree... I don't know about the Type X sub. I like the fact that it handles a lot of power and has a reputation as a good SQ sub, but it is also heavy, huge and expensive. I have a feeling I would be just as happy with a well-powered 8" or 10" L7.

[bigsky2]

Here's my recommendation:

Focal Polyglass 165V1 6.5" Comps

Focal Access 130CA1 5" Comps (use MDF/Wood spacers, they will fit)

Zapco i-Force I-4100

Can't comment on the price, but if you were local I could definitely hook you up.

[uncleyaris]

remember it depends on what you listen to. My buddy put 1 12 in his fit with 4 5 1/2's and the bass was to much for the car. If you want just clean sound with a bit of punch 10's are the way to go, and get a good amp, you be glad

[JustYYaris]

Hey, I noticed that this suggestion wasn't offered yet, but what about adding the SPX 6.5 mid bass setup in the rear location for more bass. I think the type S coaxials wouldn't seem right in the setup your proposing. 6.5 components up front with mid bass in the rear and then eventually a sub, that would be great IMHO

[sqcomp]

Honestly, the only 6 channel amplifier I have experience with is the McIntosh MCC406m.

I don't have a problem with running the component set off that amplifier. The thing to look for in a 6 channel is onboard crossovers...I can't imagine ANY 6 channel these days without a crossover section. You don't need to buy an outboard three way crossover if your amplifier already has one. It gives you the advantage of separate power to each component speaker...and in your case the woofer as well. You also have more control of the crossover points having the component set off one amplifier.

In your case you can DEFIANTELY use just a 4 channel. No question. The SPX crossovers are nicer than any in the same price bracket or even some way above.

The 6 channel will simply allow you more control in one footprint.

On my current project, we're using the MCC406m of a Hybrid Audio three way set. "Tri-amped" is the name of the game here. Complete crossover control with VERY good quality is my friend in that amplifier. I also do know that most cannot afford the McIntosh name. Take a gander at that JL Audio A6450. You'll probably be paying somewhere around $400 for it.

Just thoughts...not declarations. Do what YOU need to do, not what WE want you to do.

[Razr]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

I don't have a problem with running the component set off that amplifier. The thing to look for in a 6 channel is onboard crossovers...I can't imagine ANY 6 channel these days without a crossover section. You don't need to buy an outboard three way crossover if your amplifier already has one. It gives you the advantage of separate power to each component speaker...and in your case the woofer as well. You also have more control of the crossover points having the component set off one amplifier.

Agreed, agreed, agreed! I was just making the point about bi-wiring's possibly dubious benefits because the SPX crossovers specifically provide that functionality.

As noted, the SPX crossver is a cut above most because of it's fantastic flexibility with crossover points and phase control. IMHO you'd need time alignment as well as active crossovers in order to have a chance of doing a better job than what can be achieved out of the box, and given the OP's budget this would seem to be OOTQ.

Great to see some clued-up car audio guys here!