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Old 06-13-2018, 03:18 AM   #1
BennyLava
 
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Squishy brake pedal. But no fluid change or drain

The dealership wanted $230 to maintenance my rear brakes on my 2009 sedan. So I did it myself instead. Got new brake shoes, springs, and drums installed. Saved me about $100 doing it myself.

Only thing is, now I have a squishy brake pedal that isn't as firm as it was before. Anyone know why? Is it because the new brake shoes need time to self adjust? Maybe there is too much of a gap between the shoe and the drum? I did not have to do anything with the fluid. What do I need to do to get the firm brake pedal to return?
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:26 AM   #2
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How many clicks does your e brake have before you cannot pull it up anymore?
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:02 AM   #3
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Adjust up the star wheel at each brake 1st. You should have a slight drag on the drum.
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:37 AM   #4
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I agree with ex fire. After you adjust the brakes with the star through the hole at the top inside of the brake assembly, I would Bleed them. And while you’re doing that you might just as well use the entire can of brake fluid to change the brake fluid out in the car. Good luck and tell us what happens!
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:39 PM   #5
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Adjust up the star wheel at each brake 1st. You should have a slight drag on the drum.
Here's the hard part lol

Do I spin the wheel upwards... or downwards? Remember they're reverse threaded. Might have to just take the drums back off.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:44 PM   #6
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they aren't reverse threaded per se. spin them one way and it pushes both drum pads out, and spin them the other they come in..

BUt also check your handbrake setting.
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:17 PM   #7
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You can only spin the star wheel one way. The system locks it from going the wrong way and loosening (assuming you installed them properly)

I'd recommend just taking the wheel off and drum off to do it. You will frustrate yourself beyond all belief trying to do it from the little hope in the back
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Old 06-14-2018, 03:51 AM   #8
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When I was playing with that a year ago I was simply not able to move the starwheel in neither direction. It was completely stuck (drum was off).
As the brakeshoes position was nearly perfect (I wanted to add one click to increase the friction a bit) I simply gave up.
Nowadays I am thinking of revisiting this as I do not want to be beaten by that freaking piece of metal!
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:55 PM   #9
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How many clicks does your e brake have before you cannot pull it up anymore?
15 clicks. Did it twice to be sure of the number. What does it mean?

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Nowadays I am thinking of revisiting this as I do not want to be beaten by that freaking piece of metal!
Had a 2001 Volvo S80 I feel the same way about. Can ran like poop, until you cleared the check engine codes. Then it ran great. 15 minutes later it ran like poop again, with black smoke coming out the back. Ended up just selling the car. But I want another crack at it! I can fix it!
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:55 PM   #10
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15 clicks is way too many, it means you need to adjust your star adjuster to tighten the shoes to the drum. This is why your brake pad feels soft. That causes this effect on the Yaris
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:09 PM   #11
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15 clicks is way too many, it means you need to adjust your star adjuster to tighten the shoes to the drum. This is why your brake pad feels soft. That causes this effect on the Yaris
Thanks, I'll do it. How many clicks would it be if things were normal?

And I do have to ask the question: I thought they were supposed to be "self adujusting". As in, they'd finally adjust themselves even if it took awhile. Maybe the self adjusting part only works within a certain limited range?
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:16 PM   #12
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Maybe the self adjusting part only works within a certain limited range?
More like not at all.

3 clicks.



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Old 06-16-2018, 02:14 PM   #13
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yyou could upgrade to discs and save yourself the headache of drums/
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Old 06-16-2018, 04:09 PM   #14
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yyou could upgrade to discs and save yourself the headache of drums/
^
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:28 PM   #15
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yyou could upgrade to discs and save yourself the headache of drums/
A rear disc upgrade is a lot of work and a good chunk of change even with junkyard parts for very little (if any) reward in a small and light car like the Yaris. Not to mention the lower maintenance, parts costs and much longer lifespan of rear drums over discs.

Proper way to adjust the rear drums is to keep increasing tension untill the wheel begins to drag when you try to spin it with the drum on and the parking brake off.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:29 AM   #16
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A rear disc upgrade is a lot of work and a good chunk of change even with junkyard parts for very little (if any) reward in a small and light car like the Yaris. Not to mention the lower maintenance, parts costs and much longer lifespan of rear drums over discs.

Proper way to adjust the rear drums is to keep increasing tension untill the wheel begins to drag when you try to spin it with the drum on and the parking brake off.
I just adjusted my rear drum brakes using your method the other day and my rear drums squeal a bit as I brake. Anyone else have this issue? I'm thinking of readjusting it again by reversing it a few clicks. Similar to OP, my brakes were super soft and squishy where I can push it down to the floor after bleeding them. Tightening the rears fixed it but created a new issue with squealing rear brakes.
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:04 AM   #17
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I'm going to guess some how air got into the system. Not really sure how that's possible, but a squishy brake pedal is a sign of air being in the system.

Do a brake fluid flush with some DOT3/4 fluid, and see how it feels then. It's probably due for a flush anyway. I'll be flushing mine (probably with the gravity method unless I can have someone help me by pressing on the brake pedal) soon. I've flushed it once already, but I used Torque RT700 (DOT4), but it's changed color quickly (even became a little jelly in my FR-S [sucked out and topped off with new fluid for now]). I have some Amsoil DOT3/4 waiting for both cars, just need the time to do it.
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Old 06-19-2018, 02:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna View Post
I'm going to guess some how air got into the system. Not really sure how that's possible, but a squishy brake pedal is a sign of air being in the system.

Do a brake fluid flush with some DOT3/4 fluid, and see how it feels then. It's probably due for a flush anyway. I'll be flushing mine (probably with the gravity method unless I can have someone help me by pressing on the brake pedal) soon. I've flushed it once already, but I used Torque RT700 (DOT4), but it's changed color quickly (even became a little jelly in my FR-S [sucked out and topped off with new fluid for now]). I have some Amsoil DOT3/4 waiting for both cars, just need the time to do it.
When I bled my brake, I cut a $2 1/2" pvc pipe from home depot, pumped the brakes, placed the pvc pipe between the brake pedal and the seat, and made sure to place a cardboard piece between the seat and the pvc pipe to avoid any damage. Seemed to work well.
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