06YarisRS's 2ZR-FE Swap 5-Door Hatchback (Automatic Transmission)

[ArmstrongRacing]

[QUOTE=06YarisRS;818414]


Ok, I see what happened here, When I did my swap I thought I was clear that I used all COROLLA parts. So my corolla plug has no pin 10, just the 9 that I have been telling everyone.

Now because you have an xD harness the wires are different there at C29, You need to reconnect the blue wire.

Sorry for the confusion, I have no idea whats up with Brushhforhires swap and if he ever figured out this before the crash.

[06YarisRS]

Hi Adam and Tom.

I reconnected the blue wire to the harness and unfortunately I still have the P2770 code appearing.

[06YarisRS]

[QUOTE=ArmstrongRacing;818421]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Ok, I see what happened here, When I did my swap I thought I was clear that I used all COROLLA parts. So my corolla plug has no pin 10, just the 9 that I have been telling everyone.

Now because you have an xD harness the wires are different there at C29, You need to reconnect the blue wire.

Sorry for the confusion, I have no idea whats up with Brushhforhires swap and if he ever figured out this before the crash.

Thanks Tom. You were definitely clear about using Corolla only parts. It's my misinterpretation or failure to follow directions I suspect. I'm not giving up hope and really appreciate all the help, but I am beginning to wonder if I should have undertaken this project in the first place. I'm willing to do whatever it takes to fix this, but it may be too far beyond my skill level.

[atomic_hoji]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Hi Adam and Tom.
I reconnected the blue wire to the harness and unfortunately I still have the P2770 code appearing.

May sound silly, but did you remember to clear all the codes? My recollection is that some OBD2 codes will stick the MIL/CEL on even if the condition no longer exists..

And is this the only code you're getting now?

-- Adam

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

I'm not giving up hope and really appreciate all the help, but I am beginning to wonder if I should have undertaken this project in the first place. I'm willing to do whatever it takes to fix this, but it may be too far beyond my skill level.

No way man, you've got this! You've already done all the hard work, why stop now? If you've still got access to the EWDs, go over them again and double check what wires go where.

[ArmstrongRacing]

If clearing the codes does nothing, ground the brown wire next to the blue one you just fixed. That’s pin 9

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

May sound silly, but did you remember to clear all the codes? My recollection is that some OBD2 codes will stick the MIL/CEL on even if the condition no longer exists..

And is this the only code you're getting now?

-- Adam

Hey Adam. Yes, it's the only code I'm getting now. I was also getting a P0977 (shift solenoid "B" control circuit high), but that seems to have gone away by itself but that happened before re-connecting the blue wire. I have cleared the code with Torque Pro and it turns the MIL off, but it comes back on basically as soon as I turn the ingition on. I'm wondering if the speed sensor harness I made is having anything to do with this. I'm sure my wiring was right and the pins all went in nicely. Also, the CA2 connector is properly seated.

The MAf codes are all gone, but I've only run the car for 5 - 8 minutes at a time. My ac compressor does not sound good and no one had any PAG oil around here.

I thought that maybe the other DTCs were being set by low voltage due to my no-charge situation (which remains btw) but I've connected it to my van's battery. My multi meter shows 13.8 volts with the battery jumpered, but as soon as I take off the battery cable, it drops to 10ish volts and then keeps dropping.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

If clearing the codes does nothing, ground the brown wire next to the blue one you just fixed. That’s pin 9

I will definitely try that Tom. Thank you.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

No way man, you've got this! You've already done all the hard work, why stop now? If you've still got access to the EWDs, go over them again and double check what wires go where.

Haha, thanks Sam! I think I'm just a little tired now and a little disheartened. I've had quite a few consecutive late nights working on this project. I guess I'm wondering if some combination of parts/factors will make this project not possible. If I know that it definitely can be done (aka, it's possible electrically/mechanically and they there are no limitiations - other than my own, LOL - that make it impossible), then I'd feel better. I just don't know enough to know this for sure. It will probably turn out to be something that I missed and I'll slap myself for being stupid or careless. LOL. I do very much appreciate the encouragement.

[tmontague]

I rechecked Brishforhire's thread and your grounded wire is the exact same as his. Not sure about why the ewd's show it should be connected.

Have you checked if your ground is good? That's the first thing to do and then check your wiring on your ground is good


I'm not great with ewd's and I can't help much for the a/t swap other then what is in other threads

[atomic_hoji]

Down to 1 OBD code is good progress! I've had mine on the road for months and there's at least 1 or 2 at any given time...

So I had a look in my 2018 Yaris manual, but the P2770 DTC (code) isn't actually listed - I either didn't download it, which is possible, or it isn't in this service manual.. The manual you had/have access to may have something in it though? Check in the auto transmission section of the manual(s) under the troubleshooting or control sections, maybe it will give you some more information. Maybe Tom knows more as he's more familiar with the automatics, but I think the SLU solenoid might be for torque converter lock-up? In which case, given the code you're getting, I think you're chasing the right rabbit hole...

I did have a peek through the manual though and it looks like on the transmission itself there is a sub-harness from the connector that runs to the shift solenoids and components on the transmission. Might be worth having a check of those connectors that the wires are good - didn't get snagged on anything moving the 1NZ out / 2ZR in, connectors are clean and seated well. It's easy to do quick - ok, maybe not 'easy' since it's in the car..

Another idea would be to disconnect the battery, disconnect the engine harness connector at the ECM and the connector C29 at the automatic transmission and do a continuity / resistance check. So, basically get a multi-meter and stick a probe in the ECM pin and the other in the corresponding C29 pin and do a. a continuity check (a connection, multi-meter usually beeps) and b. a resistance measurement to see if you have high resistance in the wire - if you do, there might be a bad solder/connection. Work your way through all 9 wires and confirm your electrical connection is solid. It's a bit tedious, but maybe worth a look if the other ideas don't solve your problem.

A/C compressor hopefully survives, but sounds like it might need oil if you hadn't added any. A Ideal Supply / NAPA or similar should be able to order a small container of PAG for you. I recall it not being cheap given the tiny size of the container.. lol

Is it your Yaris' battery that's low? I might be mis-understanding, but if you jumper it from the van and it seems to charge with a good voltage, but you remove the good battery out of the loop and it drops, that seems like the Yaris' battery is hooped.. ?

Keep at it buddy, you're almost there... that first drive out you'll be cautious, listen for problems, nervous... then you'll get comfortable and open it up - and that's when the smiles start.

-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

Originally Posted by tmontague

I rechecked Brishforhire's thread and your grounded wire is the exact same as his. Not sure about why the ewd's show it should be connected.

Brushforhire's wiring was obviously wrong, not sure why he never disclosed that. He was the first 2zr + auto swap to use the xD auto harness. I've had Pin 9 posted in all of my write-ups and I don't understand why he did Pin 10 and never mentioned an issue.

I guess we will find out

[06YarisRS]

You guys are amazing! I looked at the wiring diagrams again and SLU - (pin 9), as mentioned by Tom will get grounded tomorrow. P2770 refers to "An open in the shift solenoid valve SL circuit is detected". To me pin 9 is SLU - (or ground), so this makes sense that if not grounded, there would be an open circuit, thus setting the code. Feel free to tell me I'm full of it, LOL! I will report back tomorrow as to how this works. I am optimistic about this. I do have one question, though. Are these circuits protected, in other words, will damage be prevented by the ecu or does one run a risk of frying/damaging something by changing wires around?

[ArmstrongRacing]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

... will damage be prevented by the ecu or does one run a risk of frying/damaging something by changing wires around?

No, grounding the plug wires wont cause damage. However, if you were to ground the wire in the harness from the ECM on the positive side of the solenoid something bad may happen. That would be a direct short to ground!

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

Brushforhire's wiring was obviously wrong, not sure why he never disclosed that. He was the first 2zr + auto swap to use the xD auto harness. I've had Pin 9 posted in all of my write-ups and I don't understand why he did Pin 10 and never mentioned an issue.

I guess we will find out

Well then, that makes more sense. I assumed his thread was all correct and never had time to look through any others

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

Down to 1 OBD code is good progress! I've had mine on the road for months and there's at least 1 or 2 at any given time...

So I had a look in my 2018 Yaris manual, but the P2770 DTC (code) isn't actually listed - I either didn't download it, which is possible, or it isn't in this service manual.. The manual you had/have access to may have something in it though? Check in the auto transmission section of the manual(s) under the troubleshooting or control sections, maybe it will give you some more information. Maybe Tom knows more as he's more familiar with the automatics, but I think the SLU solenoid might be for torque converter lock-up? In which case, given the code you're getting, I think you're chasing the right rabbit hole...

I did have a peek through the manual though and it looks like on the transmission itself there is a sub-harness from the connector that runs to the shift solenoids and components on the transmission. Might be worth having a check of those connectors that the wires are good - didn't get snagged on anything moving the 1NZ out / 2ZR in, connectors are clean and seated well. It's easy to do quick - ok, maybe not 'easy' since it's in the car..

Another idea would be to disconnect the battery, disconnect the engine harness connector at the ECM and the connector C29 at the automatic transmission and do a continuity / resistance check. So, basically get a multi-meter and stick a probe in the ECM pin and the other in the corresponding C29 pin and do a. a continuity check (a connection, multi-meter usually beeps) and b. a resistance measurement to see if you have high resistance in the wire - if you do, there might be a bad solder/connection. Work your way through all 9 wires and confirm your electrical connection is solid. It's a bit tedious, but maybe worth a look if the other ideas don't solve your problem.

A/C compressor hopefully survives, but sounds like it might need oil if you hadn't added any. A Ideal Supply / NAPA or similar should be able to order a small container of PAG for you. I recall it not being cheap given the tiny size of the container.. lol

Is it your Yaris' battery that's low? I might be mis-understanding, but if you jumper it from the van and it seems to charge with a good voltage, but you remove the good battery out of the loop and it drops, that seems like the Yaris' battery is hooped.. ?

Keep at it buddy, you're almost there... that first drive out you'll be cautious, listen for problems, nervous... then you'll get comfortable and open it up - and that's when the smiles start.

-- Adam

Thanks Adam. This sub harness you mention intrigues me. Here is a pic of the top trans plug. It seems to have mositure and dirt in it. Could this be causing a problem or are these pins completely isolated form eachother?

[atomic_hoji]

^ could probably use a quick blast with some electrical cleaner, but the terminals themselves look decent from the picture; nothing corroded or mangled. Those terminals are pretty separate when the connector is pushed together, I wouldn't imagine it's causing a problem, but easy enough to give it a quick clean-up.

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

^ could probably use a quick blast with some electrical cleaner, but the terminals themselves look decent from the picture; nothing corroded or mangled. Those terminals are pretty separate when the connector is pushed together, I wouldn't imagine it's causing a problem, but easy enough to give it a quick clean-up.

-- Adam

Well that's good Adam. Thanks! I took my alternator in and had it tested. It passed with flying colors. I was actually hoping it would fail so I could just buy another, bolt it on be good to go. Haha. So it looks like I have another electrical problem to try to fix. A bit back in thread, Tom gave me some guidance that I will follow. I'll bolt the alternator back on, and try Tom's suggestion. I'll also ground the pin 9 wire and check to see if the P2770 goes away. If neither works, I think I may have to step away from this for a few days. The progress has been good so far - I'm really glad it started, lol - but I could use another 'win' soon. I need to convince myself that all obstacles are able to be overcome.

Here is the alternator print out



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